Solution for fixing overly strong spring?

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Apr 4, 2014
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Hi guys. I've just received a GEC #25 clip point that has a rather heavy pull. I'd say it about 8-9. I've almost damaged my thumbnail opening it. Is there a homegrown remedy to sort this out? I've read somewhere that leaving it between the halfstop and fully opened for a few days might work. Does it really? Or do I just have to bear with it and hope the spring weakens with time? I've flushed the pivot and lightly oiled it but it hasn't improved things.

Thanks for your help.
Linus
 
Have tried leaving a few of mine at full back spring tension for days, and while it does soften the pull it's only been a temporary fix. Have a Schatt and Morgan coke bottle jack that I can't carry because it's just flat out dangerous to open and close. It could soften with use but life's too short, finger's too scarce a resource, and the knife market too vast to spend time fighting with poorly tuned back springs.

-Nick
 
Put some masking tape on the blade so you can't cut yourself. Oil the joint well. Continue to open and almost close the blade repeatedly (do it fast). Flush with WD40 and repeat the process. It worked for me on my GEC #73.

Good luck.
 
I had a knife that had a bear trap spring. Left it partway open for two whole months, and it made no difference that I could feel. Ended up sending it down the road. If you have to fight with the knife now, odds are it ain't gonna a get any better.
 
I'd send it back. Unless it's super special or very limited then, if you're like me, you'll never be happy with the knife and the spring will not weaken enough in a short amount of time to make the knife useful.
 
Put some masking tape on the blade so you can't cut yourself. Oil the joint well. Continue to open and almost close the blade repeatedly (do it fast). Flush with WD40 and repeat the process. It worked for me on my GEC #73.

Good luck.

I've done this also with a vise with padded jaws holding the blade. I'll wear leather gloves for good measure.

Not sure it it fatigues the spring or just rounds the corners on the tang which ride on it. Prolly both.
 
I've done this also with a vise with padded jaws holding the blade. I'll wear leather gloves for good measure.

Not sure it it fatigues the spring or just rounds the corners on the tang which ride on it. Prolly both.

Opening/closing repeatedly shouldn't fatigue or weaken the spring at all, unless the spring is poorly heat-treated (properly tempered springs shouldn't weaken like this). More likely the polishing/burnishing of the tang, spring, pivot pin or liners (or all in some combination) is what smoothes it out.

I'd seen in posted comments a time or two here, sometimes leftover burrs on the edges of the tang or kick of the blade will create friction against the liners when opening & closing the blade. Might look for that, and lightly sand or burnish the rough edges off. Might be an easy fix, if so.


David
 
My #78 American Jack came with an 8-9 pull, and after flushing and opening/closing about 50 times to somewhat smooth it, I left if open to max spring deflection (about 2/3 open) for a couple weeks. At that time I worked it open/closed some more, flushed again and it is now a firm 7, good for me. So all that lessened it maybe 1½ points on the firmness scale. If yours needs more than that, I'd send it back.
 
I have had moderate success at this by easing the corners on the tang with jewelers files. You have to be extremely careful though, you can do TOO much and affect the closing snap, or possibly ruin the action altogether. You can also scratch up the liners.

If you bought it from a dealer, like others have said, you should send it back.
 
This topic seems to come up a lot lately. I love the quality of GEC knives but I've already reached a point where I'm reluctant to buy one anymore. And I hate to keep asking "how's the pull" on every GEC knife I want.
 
I had a knife that had a bear trap spring. Left it partway open for two whole months, and it made no difference that I could feel. Ended up sending it down the road. If you have to fight with the knife now, odds are it ain't gonna a get any better.

I'm with you on that. About three years ago I bought a knife that was really well respected and recommended (no names... no flames...) and actually needed a pair of pliers to get the secondary blade open. At the advice of many that had that knife I worked on it for quite a while, and got it to where I could open it by holding it a certain way, putting my nail in the nick a certain way, then carefully opening it a certain way.

One day I missed the combination and split my nail and tore a piece of it off to boot.

No more for me. That knife would never be a good work knife and wound up being a knife that pi$$ed me off every single time I was changing rotation since it was unusable. Down the road it went.

Robert
 
How does one measure the pull weight?

I don't know the difference between a 5, 7 or 9 except from what I read here and my guess is what a 7 is to one person might be a 8-9 to another?
 
The procedure you describe has worked to lighten the pulls on a 73 and a 55, for me.
 
How about putting Flitz polishing compound in there and working it back and forth? Souldn't that polish things up a bit? Or will that cause to have side to side play?



I have a GEC that I worked back and forth about 200x and after about 40-50 times is gets real rough and freezes up (it gets harder). I guess this is caused when the blade gets warm from the opening and closing.
 
I had a knife that had a bear trap spring. Left it partway open for two whole months, and it made no difference that I could feel. Ended up sending it down the road. If you have to fight with the knife now, odds are it ain't gonna a get any better.

My thoughts as well. Aside from dirt and such, pull strength is usually the result of spring design (and leverage) and steel (HT included). Not the sort of things you can really change :(

Fausto
:cool:
 
How about putting Flitz polishing compound in there and working it back and forth? Souldn't that polish things up a bit? Or will that cause to have side to side play?



I have a GEC that I worked back and forth about 200x and after about 40-50 times is gets real rough and freezes up (it gets harder). I guess this is caused when the blade gets warm from the opening and closing.

Well, when you wear corners, burrs, etc. you are creating metal shavings and dust. You've gotta flush things with oil periodically. Then compressed air to blow it out is nice.
 
I went through this dilemma recently with a GEC 78. Got it from a 9 to about a 6/7 in the course of an afternoon. The key was . . . flexing the spring BEYOND it's maximum extension. Leaving the knife open for a while will have a similar effect, but not as quickly and not to the same extent.

In a thread on this very topic a while back, Ken Coats demonstrated that you can either add or subtraction tension from a backspring by flexing it in a special vice. That, of course, required taking the knife apart. But another forumite pointed out that you can do this without taking a knife apart: open the knife roughly 3/4 of the way and insert a small pry bar or similar tool into the space between the tang and the spring. Next, place the butt of the handle and the tip of the blade on a flat surface. Simultaneously torque the pry bar and but down on the knife; the blade will not move, but the pry bar with flex the spring. You only need to flex it an eighth or a quarter of an inch at most past its point of maximal flex to reduce the tension. More than that, and you risk snapping the spring.

I was worried about this at first. I didn't want to damage the knife. But I went ahead with it, and now I can easily open the knife, having done no damage to the spring. I've followed up with WD-40 and a 3-in-1 oil. My American Jack is a nailbreaker no more, about on par with my 71.

Anyway, that's one way to tackle the problem. I can understand if others were hesitant to do this, but I'd happily do it again.
 
...another forumite pointed out that you can do this without taking a knife apart: open the knife roughly 3/4 of the way and insert a small pry bar or similar tool into the space between the tang and the spring. Next, place the butt of the handle and the tip of the blade on a flat surface. Simultaneously torque the pry bar and but down on the knife; the blade will not move, but the pry bar with flex the spring. You only need to flex it an eighth or a quarter of an inch at most past its point of maximal flex to reduce the tension.

I just tried this on a really stiff Rough Rider that I wasn't too worried about breaking. It made it significantly easier to open with about 5 minutes worth of work. Thank you so much for sharing this.
 
I went through this dilemma recently with a GEC 78. Got it from a 9 to about a 6/7 in the course of an afternoon. The key was . . . flexing the spring BEYOND it's maximum extension. Leaving the knife open for a while will have a similar effect, but not as quickly and not to the same extent.

In a thread on this very topic a while back, Ken Coats demonstrated that you can either add or subtraction tension from a backspring by flexing it in a special vice. That, of course, required taking the knife apart. But another forumite pointed out that you can do this without taking a knife apart: open the knife roughly 3/4 of the way and insert a small pry bar or similar tool into the space between the tang and the spring. Next, place the butt of the handle and the tip of the blade on a flat surface. Simultaneously torque the pry bar and but down on the knife; the blade will not move, but the pry bar with flex the spring. You only need to flex it an eighth or a quarter of an inch at most past its point of maximal flex to reduce the tension. More than that, and you risk snapping the spring.

I was worried about this at first. I didn't want to damage the knife. But I went ahead with it, and now I can easily open the knife, having done no damage to the spring. I've followed up with WD-40 and a 3-in-1 oil. My American Jack is a nailbreaker no more, about on par with my 71.

Anyway, that's one way to tackle the problem. I can understand if others were hesitant to do this, but I'd happily do it again.

I wish you could make a short video of this or at a series of pics to show what you mean by this.
 
The way I have done it in the past is a variation of the method described by Stencil Jr. Note: I am NOT advising that you do this with a knife you could not stand to ruin.

Many years ago, we used to make "switchblades" out of cheap toothpick-style fishing knives. The first step is to weaken the spring. Find some heavy wire that just fits in the blade slot (we used coat hanger wire). Take a 3"-4" piece and bend it double, hairpin style. Open the knife halfway, and put the doubled end of the wire under the tang, then close the knife. The blade will stick up out of the handle. Repeatedly squeeze the blade closed so that the spring protrudes from the back of the handle more than normally. This, of course, overstresses the spring, and eventually it will fatigue and weaken. Remove the wire and check the spring tension frequently. The danger is that you will overshoot and end up with a very weak spring, or that the spring will simply break.

I have done this with the screwdriver blade of a Camillus electrician's knife that was a nailbreaker, and it tamed it down quite a bit. Your results may vary.
 
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