some advice on a good buffer/polisher?

D

d.weglarz13

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Jun 4, 2008
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hey guys. I am kind of new to the knife thing, well not collecting, just working with them, and had a question. I have been putting some nice handles on some of my knives and want to buy a decent buffer/polisher. Any advice would help, i really don't know where to start. I do not claim in any way to be a knifemaker, although I hope I can get there some day. for now, I want to put a professional finished look to my blades and handles(wood, micarta, bone, etc, and like a satin and mirror finish for the blades). I really want to get good at it, as some of my really expensive knives need a good refinishing anyway.(no antiques, so don't worry) I was hoping to get something that can do this for me, without spending hundreds of dollars on one if I can. If you could give me some advice or point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it. thanks
 
If you are not familiar with knife making and shop work DO NOT BUY A BUFFER. They can hurt you in 1/100 second with a sharp knife.

That said, if you are determined to have one, get a small ,cheap, hobby unit with a small motor - Around 1/4HP, and 1750RPM (not 3000+RPM). Use wheels no bigger than 6". This will work for light buffing, as in handles. Have someone who knows how to polish show you how it is done before doing it yourself (even a jeweler can show you).

The 1HP units throwing a 10" buff can take off a piece of a hand if you are not experienced.
Stacy
 
I think that is why most did not respond. A buffer can grab stuff and fling it around in an instant. It is all over before you even know it is going to start. seriously. The only way I will buff the handle on a sharp knife if to duct tape a folded piece of thin metal over the edge.

You must never put a hard corner or edge into the buff, keep it low on the wheel, keep a firm grip, concentrate, buff the lower 2/3 then turn piece around and work from the other way. Loose buffs grab more than hard buffs. If you have no experience with this stuff I suggest you get some pieces of wood and practice before you try anything like a knife. Some guys won't even own a buffer.
 
Dremel sells a polishing kit. It would take a long time but NOT getting a sharp knife through the hojos is worth some inconvenience. In the interest of full disclosure, I do not own or use any sort of buffer myself.
 
this might sound really stupid, but up until now, I have been using my electric belt sander that is used to sand wood, I turn it upside down and on its side, and use it like that. This is not something i like to do, or am saying it to show off, or even use it for sharp knives. Usually it is for some thing like handle material, but would like to stop being so stupid, and get something safe that i can start making blades with and polishing them too. Thanks for the patience.
 
OK, I'm not getting this right.
Are you wanting to sand the handles, or buff them?
A buffer has cloth wheels that polish the material.
A sander/grinder has an abrasive belt or disc that sand the material smooth.
Stacy
 
just like lots of things in life that can accidentally injure/kill you....if you know what you're doing, you can avoid 99% of the accidents out there. I do agree that a buffer can be the most dangerous tool in a knifemaker's shop....but for most of us...we're the most dangerous thing in the shop.

Don't ever get casual with your tools and you'll do fine.



My advice?

Buff out your handles by hand with fine abrasives and then wax first. Then when you're better at it...get a buffer.

Best wishes.

:thumbup:

Dan
 
If you want one that is variable speed and FAIRLY safe to learn how to use buffer this is one I recommend.... I have a used similar one made by Lortone that I got for a 1/4 of the cost of this one from an auction site.

The nice thing about this type of buffer is you can have a buff for each type of compound and they fit into zip lock bags for keeping them clean and tagged. The buffs basically screw onto the tapered threaded shafts and can be changed in about a minute. You also can use felt wheels on this buffer.

A three or four inch buff doesn't easily send a knife flying but will polish metal. Email me if you have questions about polishing bone.

JEWELERS FOREDOM BENTH LATHE POLISHING MACHINE WITH TAPERED SPINDLES

NEW

Powerful variable speed bench lathe in a compact size suitable for use at the workbench. Its permanent magnet motor is extremely quiet and smooth running with all the power and speed required for a variety of polishing and buffing jobs. Cast iron base has suction cup feet for a secure hold on the work surface. Lathe comes with the TM-5 (left hand) and TM-6 (right hand) tapered spindles for holding buffs and brushes up to a 4" (100mm) in diameter.

Product Features:

1/16 HP high torque motor
125 Watts (continous rating)
5/16" diameter motor shaft
Ball bearing
1,800 - 7,000 RPM
CSA Certified
Weight - 7.5 lbs (3.4 kg)
Height - 5 1/8" (130mm)
Width - 13" (330mm) between spindles

Here is a low cost one that could allow you to practice before stepping up to a high end machine -

RAND BENCH POLISHER / BUFFER

The text and photos of this auction are protected by the copyright laws of the United States of America. Use of any of our text or photos, whole or in part, is strictly prohibited.

This high quality, high speed buffer/polisher is an ideal addition to any home or shop!
This new Rand buffer / polisher is ideal for any of your polishing needs. It works great with on any items including aluminum, chrome, jewelry, etc. It includes 2 replaceable buffing wheels which allows you to use 2 different buffing grits at the same time. And, the pads are machine washable for your convenience. The variable speed dial lets you adjust the buffing wheel speed to any RPM between 2000 and 7000.
The features of this buffer / polisher include:

Rand bench-top buffer / polisher.
Buffing speed is continuously variable between 2000 and 7000 RPM which allows you to adjust how agressive of a buffing job you want to do.
Motor is 120V / 60 hz / 200W / 1.67 amps / .27 hp
Includes two buffing wheels approximately 4" diameter X 3/4" thick. Buffer can use wheels up to 5" in diameter, and with a center hole of 1/2" or less. The pads screw directly onto the tapered, threaded mandrels (included).
Includes threaded mandrels for easy mounting and replacement of the buffing wheels.
Overall size is approximately 10-3/4"W X 6"H X 4-1/2"D.
Buffing compounds, rouge, and replacement buffing wheels are readily available online
 
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thanks. I am pretty confident in my skills with my future buffer, but i will be mostly sanding my blades by hand rubbing and my handles with a sanding block. what i am trying to get at is the finished look after the brute work is done. taking it from a beautiful sanding job of like 600 grit, and transform into a work of art that actually shines and looks pro. thanks.
 
To get a really bright blade finish, you have to hand sand to more than 600. Many folks wet sand to 2000, or even 8000, before buffing. Some never buff with a machine, and only buff by hand. As for handles, 600 is fine before buffing. Make sure the blade and handle are completely clean prior to buffing (you don't want any stray sanding grit getting involved).
If you stick with a small and low power unit (like Redrummd suggested) you will be safer, but the amount of blade finishing before buffing will need to be greater. For handles those small units will be fine. Always tape the blade when polishing handles.
Stacy
 
Another thing I learned the hard way. Make sure that the grain of your handle material is well sealed and the sealant cured before you buff with a compound. If not your buffing compound will become embedded in your material and you will have to sand it down to get it out. A soft buff with no compound will not do this but, you must sand to a way higher grit like Stacy said.
 
You will get alot of advice here on machines. I use a bench grinder with the guards removed, using both sewn and loose cotton wheels and three types of compound from coarse to fine. Black, Green chrome, and fine white aluminum, using separate buffs for each compound and store them separately to prevent contamination from each other and other grime.

Buffers can be dangerous, but don't let it discourage you, develop a feel for your machine. Polishing is only as safe as the operator of the machine. Don't rush.

However, before you buff a knife blade practice polishing round stock. A round rod will give you practice for the feel of the machine for safety.

The rod is less likely to be grabbed by the spinning buff since it is round. Apply the compound often, and don't push. Pay attention to where your work is on the wheel, keep your work on the lower half of the buffer wheel, and have a good grip on the blade.
 
thanks for the help guys. i will be buying one soon, but glad to know i can do just as good with the sand paper.
 
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