Sparking fatwood shavings

[kgd]

The doan thread made consider a few truths and PSK items. I always include a synthetic tinder like PJCB either in a little tin or as part of firestraws and also usually have a chunk of fatwood in there also. Sometimes I substitute the coghlan's firesticks, which is basically paraffinized sawdust for the fatwood. Others have things like wetfire packages, or parafinned jute twine.

The reason I'm posting this thread is to get a canvas of people who use fatwood as their sole means of tinder with firesteel or do they bring alternatives. Also, what is their overall feeling of the effectiveness of fatwood shavings to catch a spark and convert it to flame.

My trials in this are mixed. I will use the spine of my knife perpendicular to the fatwood block to scrape off dust and ignite that with my firesteel. However, the result is not always successful. I'd have to say about 40% of the time I can get the fatwood dust to accept a spark after about 10 strikes or so (these are all good healthy strikes).

When I use synthetic tinders, PJCB or those Coghlan brand firesticks, I can get a flame 100% of the time (or close to in) in fewer than 10 strikes on the firesteel.

Fatwood has amazing possibilities for use as tinder and also kindling. You ability to control burn time based on how much you cut it up makes it incredibly versatile. However, I have to say that the versatility at the tinder end isn't quite as great as I would like.

In fact I feel much more comfortable finding a flash tinder like milkweed seeds, dried phragmites heads or thistle seeds to use in conjunction with fatwood powder and build that up than fatwood powder alone.

Who else has noticed this? How has it influenced your PSK contents?

 

[Bushman5]

fatwood shavings are secondary to synthetic (PJCB) starters for me. (when using SPARK based fire starting methods).

when using FLAME balsed firestarting methods, cant beat fatwood shavings

part of it too is I like "muscle memory" based methods of firestarting. I can be extremely tired, drunk, cold wet etc and i can get a small blaze going with PCJB and firesteel. I simply do not have the muscle memory under those conditions to spend time shaving fatwood and then trying to light it,.

 

[DWK2]

I would not rely on fatwood as my sole tinder unless it was all that was available. If you scrape/shave it very fine it will usually work well but, like you, I'd had quicker results with other substances.

DancesWithKnives

 

[kgd]

You got in before my poll Bushman5 - I hope you can vote
Thanks for your response.

 

[Mistwalker]

I don't use it as my only tinder but it is definitely a primary tinder for me because there is so much of it here...especially in wet conditions... no matter which method I use. With the firesteel I also use plain wood shavings and dry leaves, as well as trioxane and wet fire tinder, and I am experimenting with some of the local fungi.

 

[Bushman5]

voted

 

[dawsonbob]

I pack some PJCBs with me, and a magnesium block, too, but I rarely use them. Always have a Bic lighter with me, though, just in case. I rarely use that, either. All of them work, of course, but they're not nearly as much fun as finding natural tinder, and I don't learn as much by using them.

As far as fatwood, I've never found any around here, so I've never tried it. When I get some I'll give it a try, and then I might carry some of that, too.

 

[Evolute]

I still bring other tinders than fatwood, because I think having multiples with variations – having diversity and variety – can be helpful in case of some odd situation which favors one thing over another.

However, I choose the fatwood 100% of the time. Also, if I was forced to pick just one, I'd pick the fatwood.

I find it ignitable by spark within 10 strikes approximately 100% of the time. I also like the other aspects of it – a small chunk is good for many uses, it burns hot, it's totally waterproof, it doesn't degrade from exposure to air, it can double as kindling, etc.

If you're having this kind of trouble with fatwood, I have to wonder (since I'm not) whether something is wrong. Perhaps you have very poor quality fatwood, or a defective firesteel, or some issue with your technique.

Have you ever read this?:

http://www.mikespinak.com/articles/Essays/e994firesteelhowto.html

Perhaps, if there's something wrong, it can help you figure out what.

 

[Mistwalker]

If you're having this kind of trouble with fatwood, I have to wonder (since I'm not) whether something is wrong. Perhaps you have very poor quality fatwood, or a defective firesteel, or some issue with your technique.

Ken

I was wondering the same thing. I seldom have to spark more than three times and usually in just one or two.

I'm pretty sure your firesteel is an LMF, so is mine, so what technique are you using and have you got any pics of the fatwood you are using.

I could send you some that is REALLY rich if you like.

Brian

 

[Snakedoc]

I enjoy the challange of starting with only fatwood. Seems to work better for me in the garage when I am practicing technique then out in the elements, although I have been successful a handful of times. I do bring along PJCB as a back up to the fatwood alone.

This was my first fire using only fatwood as tinder. I had some great instruction from River-8 and Rescue Mike.

The results of my first attempt while I was alone and practicing some skills.

I do like to try to get it going with fatwood only, I find it much more rewarding. It is a good skill to have if you find yourself with out other tinders.

I have had decent luck with fatwood as my only tinder, as long as I scrape enough dust to catch the spark I do well. If I rush it and just use curls and skip the dust my results are pretty poor.

 

[texastonydobbs]

I voted easy ,reason being ,I leaned more towards misch metal rods than standard firesteel rods,maybe that is cheating but I like a spark that burns really hot and even with Damp bark from an evergreen tree in my area I can get it to burn using misch rod over standard firesteel,now if roll were reversed and using a standard firesteel Doan/ LMF ,I have to put forth a strong effort to aquire flame.

 

[Evolute]

... Seems to work better for me in the garage when I am practicing technique then out in the elements, although I have been successful a handful of times.

I have had decent luck with fatwood as my only tinder, as long as I scrape enough dust to catch the spark I do well. If I rush it and just use curls and skip the dust my results are pretty poor.

In my opinion, based on looking at your picture, you are making it far harder than necessary, by trying to spark very large, fat "scrapings". They're like the thick curls of wood you'd get from cutting or shaving, instead of scraping. I don't know what your technique for making these "scrapings" is, but take a comparison look at the scrapings I get from fatwood:

Above is a small pile of scrapings from a few quick strokes, less than ten seconds of preparation.

And here –

– is a single curl from a single scraping of fatwood. Notice how much narrower they are, and how thin they are. They are almost like the kinds of thin filaments you'd get with thistle down, foxtail, and similar tinders. This is so that it is easy to heat a localized portion where a spark hits to ignition point. Notice how much surface-area-to-mass they have, how open they are to airflow. There's lots of area to aim a spark at, and lots of room for them to get oxygen, without being smothered.

This is what they should ideally look like.

Just hold an edge against your fatwood, and do a few light, quick scrapes.

 

[Snakedoc]

Yes, I agree. In the picture above I was more less taking a pic of the knife. As I was alone, once I shaved a little dust I just got carried away with putting spark to it and did not take any more pics until I had some larger pieces of fatwood on and had the fire sustained.

 

[Col. Cornelius]

Howdy,

Trade wood, or pitch wood (to us Westerner's) is all I use to start fires. I find it very easy to light with a LMF.

I typically use pine pitch wood from a very old rotted out stump, where all thats left is extremely dense, hard, water proof, material, with a very strong smell when cut.

Shaving curls ignite good. Pitch wood saw dust, made with a leatherman or SAK saw, ignite EASY!!!

The quality of the pitch wood might make a difference as well as the wood species.

 

[tonym]

If you make your shavings thin and take your time, I find it very easy.

That said, I never use it

It is not easily found here, unless you go to Walmart.

I prefer using paper birch which is easily found in my area. It's as simple as peeling it off the tree, fluffing it up by rubbing it in your hands. I usually stuff a bunch in my pockets when ever I pass a tree. It will light in 1 good strike of the fire steel. It burns long and hot :thumbup:

 

[TheGame]

I always use some sort of natural fluff or cotton balls to get my fire started, with fatwood to extend that and than the kindling comes in. Mainly because it is the easiest way for me.

 

[Liam Ryan]

Probably mentioned but fatwood has the benefit of being waterproof.
I had better luck with fine birch bark curls, myself.

 

[DWK2]

I wish there was some birch around here! Whenever I see it on AK river trips, I always collect some dry bark.

DancesWithKnives

 

[kgd]

I'm a little like Snake Doc. Works perfectly well in a controlled setting but gets more iffy when I'm bending over trying to spark in an awkward location, wind is flittering around my dust and I'm trying to not knock over a bit of prepped shaved kindling. Thats the one think I like with synthetics like PJCB, you just light it where convenient then grab it and move it to your fire. I guess its the bending over and sparking it over a fire ring business that makes it harder for me to do. Anyhow, I usually get it after awhile but it isn't as easy as other tinders for me.

 

[j williams]

I enjoy fatwood....However, its next to impossible to find here in the backcountry. So, I use PJCBs, and a LMF army steel....


I can get fatwood to ignite fairly easy, but IMO nothing is 100%