Mike,
Good catch and worth adding. There were quite a few variations of the DM released, but there were two main versions with the full height grind and thinner stock that are significantly different from the CG. So, I updated adding the DC and LE info. I have a CG, but never owned the LE or DC. My understanding is the LE has the same small Busse Basic handle as the CG, but the DC has the slightly larger handle used on the Yard Keeper which I am pretty sure was the same handle as on the Howling Rat.
Most people with large hands seem to feel the Busse Basic handle like on the LE and CG is a bit small. But, the slightly larger handle on the DC is pretty good for most hands for a knife of its size. I have fairly large hands and had a Howler, Yard Keeper and the DMCG. The handles on the Howler and YK were fine for me. But, the DMCG handle was a bit small.
** However, I found I could modify the Res-C handle with a sharp blade and sandpaper and was able to enlarge the handle on my DMCG to fit my hand much more comfortably.
See: http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=136545&an=0&page=5#Post136545
Jerry Busse has also confirmed that Res-C can be cut and shaped, then finished with sandpaper when the Regulator was released as the "De-Regulator" which had the top guard/quillion cut off from the factory.
See: http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Knives&Number=377236&Searchpage=4&Main=377236&Words=%2Bregulator&topic=&Search=true#Post377236
So, if you find a Res-C handle doesn't quite fit your hand as you like, you can modify it to fit your hand if needed. It is not that hard.
*** However, I should note that the Busse brothers have hinted and might have some concerns with people modifying their Res-C handles and causing damage to the handle in the process of modifying and then want the handle covered under warranty. Personally, I feel if people make such modifications, they should take responsibilities for damage if caused by user modifications. So, take caution with modifications. If you don't think you have the skill to make the proper modifications without damaging the handle, maybe you shouldn't. But, it can be done if done carefully.
*Tips:
- To cut Res-C, a "RAZOR" sharp blade works way better. And cut slivers slowly rather than try to cut chunks.
- Make sure you know where the tang is under the handle so you don't cut too close to the tang. If you do, you will loose the integrity of the Res-C at that spot.
Here is a X-Ray pictures of the HRLM, 2nd Gen. Howler and SS4 for reference:
Swamp Rat tang & handle cut-away:
Regulator's tang & Handle cut-away:
S5CG's tang:
Notice the significantly thick and beefy radius between the ricasso and tang. Most other knife makers have a square/thin/non-radiused transition from ricasso to tang. Busse's technique is WAY tougher and stronger.
Most knife makers square of the transition from the ricasso to tang so they can add a seperate guard piece. But, here is a common problem with squared off (not reinforced) transitions from ricasso to tang:
*** I have never seen one of the Busse and kin tangs broken yet.
------
On the topic of handle modifications, sandpaper works on Micarta and G10 as well - just don't breath the resin dust! Always wear a mask if sanding micarta or G10!
.
Good catch and worth adding. There were quite a few variations of the DM released, but there were two main versions with the full height grind and thinner stock that are significantly different from the CG. So, I updated adding the DC and LE info. I have a CG, but never owned the LE or DC. My understanding is the LE has the same small Busse Basic handle as the CG, but the DC has the slightly larger handle used on the Yard Keeper which I am pretty sure was the same handle as on the Howling Rat.
Most people with large hands seem to feel the Busse Basic handle like on the LE and CG is a bit small. But, the slightly larger handle on the DC is pretty good for most hands for a knife of its size. I have fairly large hands and had a Howler, Yard Keeper and the DMCG. The handles on the Howler and YK were fine for me. But, the DMCG handle was a bit small.
** However, I found I could modify the Res-C handle with a sharp blade and sandpaper and was able to enlarge the handle on my DMCG to fit my hand much more comfortably.
See: http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=136545&an=0&page=5#Post136545
Jerry Busse has also confirmed that Res-C can be cut and shaped, then finished with sandpaper when the Regulator was released as the "De-Regulator" which had the top guard/quillion cut off from the factory.
See: http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Knives&Number=377236&Searchpage=4&Main=377236&Words=%2Bregulator&topic=&Search=true#Post377236
So, if you find a Res-C handle doesn't quite fit your hand as you like, you can modify it to fit your hand if needed. It is not that hard.
*** However, I should note that the Busse brothers have hinted and might have some concerns with people modifying their Res-C handles and causing damage to the handle in the process of modifying and then want the handle covered under warranty. Personally, I feel if people make such modifications, they should take responsibilities for damage if caused by user modifications. So, take caution with modifications. If you don't think you have the skill to make the proper modifications without damaging the handle, maybe you shouldn't. But, it can be done if done carefully.
*Tips:
- To cut Res-C, a "RAZOR" sharp blade works way better. And cut slivers slowly rather than try to cut chunks.
- Make sure you know where the tang is under the handle so you don't cut too close to the tang. If you do, you will loose the integrity of the Res-C at that spot.
Here is a X-Ray pictures of the HRLM, 2nd Gen. Howler and SS4 for reference:
Swamp Rat tang & handle cut-away:
Regulator's tang & Handle cut-away:
S5CG's tang:
Notice the significantly thick and beefy radius between the ricasso and tang. Most other knife makers have a square/thin/non-radiused transition from ricasso to tang. Busse's technique is WAY tougher and stronger.
Most knife makers square of the transition from the ricasso to tang so they can add a seperate guard piece. But, here is a common problem with squared off (not reinforced) transitions from ricasso to tang:
*** I have never seen one of the Busse and kin tangs broken yet.
------
On the topic of handle modifications, sandpaper works on Micarta and G10 as well - just don't breath the resin dust! Always wear a mask if sanding micarta or G10!
.
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