Speedy sharp carbide sharpener

They're a very simple tool but useful for a lot of tasks, beyond just sharpening! I recommend them and tools like them to everyone. I use it on my cabinet scrapers to sharpen and burnish them.
 
I have a Corona-branded version of one of these carbide scraper types. I use it occasionally for quick tune-ups on yard tools like pruners or loppers, as their edges aren't typically very hard and they'll get dinged or rolled pretty often in use. Used in that capacity, solely for keeping the apex crisp and aligned, the tool can be pretty handy.

For my EDC knives, I'll always prefer to use a stone or diamond hone in a more typical honing fashion, i.e., perpendicular to the cutting edge.
 
I have a Corona-branded version of one of these carbide scraper types. I use it occasionally for quick tune-ups on yard tools like pruners or loppers, as their edges aren't typically very hard and they'll get dinged or rolled pretty often in use. Used in that capacity, solely for keeping the apex crisp and aligned, the tool can be pretty handy.

For my EDC knives, I'll always prefer to use a stone or diamond hone in a more typical honing fashion, i.e., perpendicular to the cutting edge.

On an unrelated note, what would you suggest on some more affordable diamond bench stones? I spent quite a while researching on Amazon last night, then considered I should probably ask you. I'm good with smaller stones too, ones that I can hold in my hand. There's just so many brands and rebrands out there it's difficult to choose.
 
I don't like carbide sharpeners for my knives, but they're great for my rough and dirty machetes and I like them for the work bench knife.
 
On an unrelated note, what would you suggest on some more affordable diamond bench stones? I spent quite a while researching on Amazon last night, then considered I should probably ask you. I'm good with smaller stones too, ones that I can hold in my hand. There's just so many brands and rebrands out there it's difficult to choose.
My on-the-go tune-up hones, for my EDC knives, will be either DMT's credit card-style hones (always in my wallet), or a Norton Fine India 4" x 1" pocket stone. Those are pictured below. I also have a Fallkniven DC4 hone for similar use - its diamond side is closely comparable to the DMT Fine (600) hone. I have MANY other of DMT's pocketable hones as well as other pocket stones - but the ones mentioned above are my favorites. In general terms, for diamond hones, I've been spoiled with DMT's line, as I keep noticing they're a notch or two above the rest in terms of needing minimal deburring after sharpening. They leave a very clean edge, and across a pretty wide grit range - at least from XC through EEF.
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For bench stones, I also heavily favor either DMT's products, like their double-sided Dia-Sharp continuous surface hones in 6" x 2" format - I have them in XC/C and F/EF combos - OR a Norton C/F IB8 bench stone for simpler steels. So, my bench favorites essentially mirror my more pocketable choices as well.

EZE-Lap also makes some pretty good diamond hones, and for less money than DMT. I have one of their Eze-Fold combinations in 400/1200 - it's essentially like DMT's Dia-Fold hones.
 
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My on-the-go tune-up hones, for my EDC knives, will be either DMT's credit card-style hones (always in my wallet), or a Norton Fine India 4" x 1" pocket stone. Those are pictured below. I also have a Fallkniven DC4 hone for similar use - its diamond side is closely compatible to the DMT Fine hone. I have MANY other of DMT's pocketable hones as well as other pocket stones - but the ones mentioned above are my favorites. In general terms, for diamond hones, I've been spoiled with DMT's line, as I keep noticing they're a notch or two above the rest in terms of needing minimal deburring after sharpening. They leave a very clean edge, and across a pretty wide grit range - at least from XC through EEF.
JvK0xlW.jpg


For bench stones, I also heavily favor either DMT's products, like their double-sided Dia-Sharp continuous surface hones in 6" x 2" format - I have them in XC/C and F/EF combos - OR a Norton C/F IB8 bench stone for simpler steels. So, my bench favorites essentially mirror my more pocketable choices as well.

EZE-Lap also makes some pretty good diamond hones, and for less money than DMT. I have one of their Eze-Fold combinations in 400/1200 - it's essentially like DMT's Dia-Fold hones.

Thank you! I realize DMT is a solid american made brand but I've been bumping into reviews the past few years stating "quality has gone downhill" in terms of comparing the performance of current productions vs 6-7 year old versions.

I have a fine DMT card that I always carry in my wallet. I hear good things about their unique extra extra fine stone with the folding handle. I was leaning toward the Dia-Sharp's to begin with, suppose I'll pull the trigger ;) Just thought there might be some comparible stones with similar performance they are sneaking into the market. I know I own a very cheap diamond bench stone (the cheap rebranded 300 x 1000 with the diamond pattern you see on Amazon) and it has been of surprisingly great quality, especially after I broke it in. Whether the grits are accurate or not who knows, but to me it seems extra XC stones don't stay XC for very long across many different brands :(
 
I find that generally diamonds do best in finer grits, and fortunately you can use standard coarse silicon carbide and aluminum oxide stones on high-vanadium steel without major detriment, though you'd ideally want to use a somewhat soft stone or higher pressure, since the abrasive will be wearing faster than when used on other steels.

As far as the original topic, freehand carbide scrapers fall under a weird class that makes their utility difficult to summarize, but once you have one you'll find all sorts of circumstances that they're a godsend in.
 
Thank you! I realize DMT is a solid american made brand but I've been bumping into reviews the past few years stating "quality has gone downhill" in terms of comparing the performance of current productions vs 6-7 year old versions.

I have a fine DMT card that I always carry in my wallet. I hear good things about their unique extra extra fine stone with the folding handle. I was leaning toward the Dia-Sharp's to begin with, suppose I'll pull the trigger ;) Just thought there might be some comparible stones with similar performance they are sneaking into the market. I know I own a very cheap diamond bench stone (the cheap rebranded 300 x 1000 with the diamond pattern you see on Amazon) and it has been of surprisingly great quality, especially after I broke it in. Whether the grits are accurate or not who knows, but to me it seems extra XC stones don't stay XC for very long across many different brands :(
Based on others' postings here on BF, I am inclined to believe there are some good & relatively inexpensive alternatives for diamond hones out there. I just haven't tried them yet. Since finding what works for me in the DMTs, I haven't had much motivation to shop for anything else. Part of that is also because most of the knives I use on a daily basis are in simpler steels and don't need diamonds anyway, so I can't justify spending the $$ on them much anymore. The Fine India fits them very well. So, I'm in a pretty comfortable place for stones right now and not feeling like I need to look for something different.
 
They're a very simple tool but useful for a lot of tasks, beyond just sharpening! I recommend them and tools like them to everyone. I use it on my cabinet scrapers to sharpen and burnish them.
I have used all kinds of things to sharpen scrapers, commercial ones that allow for precise angle adjustments, cabinet scraper burnishers, old engine valves, screwdrivers, all of them are round.

How are you using that tool to sharpen a scraper?
 
I have used all kinds of things to sharpen scrapers, commercial ones that allow for precise angle adjustments, cabinet scraper burnishers, old engine valves, screwdrivers, all of them are round.

How are you using that tool to sharpen a scraper?
I typically clamp the scraper in a vise, hold the carbide perpendicular to the edge at a tilt so the edge of the carbide is making contact, and make light strokes to remove material. For burnishing to create the curled burr I lay the flat of the carbide against the edge instead so it's no longer scraping, and at a slightly lifted angle so it's applying side-pressure to the 90°. The way the carbide is inserted in these is so one side is flush to the handle while the other side projects, so if you need to burnish the inside of a concave scraper you use the flush side so it's edge-trailing.
 
I typically clamp the scraper in a vise, hold the carbide perpendicular to the edge at a tilt so the edge of the carbide is making contact, and make light strokes to remove material. For burnishing to create the curled burr I lay the flat of the carbide against the edge instead so it's no longer scraping, and at a slightly lifted angle so it's applying side-pressure to the 90°. The way the carbide is inserted in these is so one side is flush to the handle while the other side projects, so if you need to burnish the inside of a concave scraper you use the flush side so it's edge-trailing.
A tool designed to do the complete opposite of what is needed to sharpen a scraper is very poor choice, almost anything would be better.

You should learn how to do it, because if you knew you wouldn't suggest that tool.

How to burnish and roll the burr is demonstrated here 4:14 into the video.

 
A tool designed to do the complete opposite of what is needed to sharpen a scraper is very poor choice, almost anything would be better.

You should learn how to do it, because if you knew you wouldn't suggest that tool.

How to burnish and roll the burr is demonstrated here 4:14 into the video.

If you actually had ever used one you'd know that it actually works quite well. I use a scraper a LOT in the preparation of scythe snaths and I get lovely curls off of edges I prepped with the carbide.

I still do not understand your insistence on being rude and brusque in your phrasing with me. It's completely unnecessary, especially when you're asking about something you've literally never done.
 
If you actually had ever used one you'd know that it actually works quite well. I use a scraper a LOT in the preparation of scythe snaths and I get lovely curls off of edges I prepped with the carbide.

I still do not understand your insistence on being rude and brusque in your phrasing with me. It's completely unnecessary, especially when you're asking about something you've literally never done.
Just stating facts.

Hopefully you learned something and anyone thinking about using one to sharpen a scraper did as well.
 
Just stating facts.

Hopefully you learned something and anyone thinking about using one to sharpen a scraper did as well.
I already knew every single thing mentioned in that video. The carbide sharpener works, and works well, and I'll continue to both use and recommend it. It gets excellent results with little effort, particularly when just freshening up a scraper that's lost a little of its bite.

Do not feign ignorance that your phrasing is rude. It is entirely possible to educate without adopting a condescending tone, and in fact essential if your true aim is education rather than posturing.

Indeed, you are even factually incorrect in saying that the carbide sharpener is "designed to do the complete opposite of what is needed to sharpen a scraper" and yet state it as if it were fact despite not having experience in using one in that manner. This is a shameful practice.
 
I suppose those 'pull through carbide sharpeners' work good enough for average folks and simple steel knives (carbon steel, simple inox steel like Victorinox,...etc).
I personally would not use them on blades with high carbide content like s110v, s90v, K390, Maxamet, Rex and similar.
 
I already knew every single thing mentioned in that video. The carbide sharpener works, and works well, and I'll continue to both use and recommend it. It gets excellent results with little effort, particularly when just freshening up a scraper that's lost a little of its bite.

Do not feign ignorance that your phrasing is rude. It is entirely possible to educate without adopting a condescending tone, and in fact essential if your true aim is education rather than posturing.

Indeed, you are even factually incorrect in saying that the carbide sharpener is "designed to do the complete opposite of what is needed to sharpen a scraper" and yet state it as if it were fact despite not having experience in using one in that manner. This is a shameful practice.
Now I'm not going to try and burnish this scraper with that carbide cutter. Why? Because the sharp edges will remove steel rather than burnish and F up my scraper. There is a reason we use burnishing tools with rounded smooth edges.

 
I suppose those 'pull through carbide sharpeners' work good enough for average folks and simple steel knives (carbon steel, simple inox steel like Victorinox,...etc).
I personally would not use them on blades with high carbide content like s110v, s90v, K390, Maxamet, Rex and similar.

This thread is not about drag-through carbide, but rather a freehand carbide sharpener that consists of a rectangular piece of carbide mounted on a handle.

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