Splitting vs. Chopping Grind

J

jonshonda

Joined
Dec 16, 2019
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I created my first thread here asking about a good splitting axe. From what I gather it should be short and fat, with chubby cheeks and be fairly heavy at 5lbs or more. While searching the subject I saw certain profiles mentioned, but didn't understand what really made them better then others for splitting. Which is why I created the thread.

I have been watching a lot of videos and reading up on sharpening specifically for splitting. It really seems like every video and thread I have read refers back to "An Axe To Grind" for the fan method and bevel angles. That method and angle doesn't make sense to me for splitting. While I was reading through the "Splitting" section (Pg 44), I ran across this statement. "You should have a dedicated splitting axe. It's blade should have a much steeper angle then a felling and bucking axe."

My thought is that the 25 degree GABA (generally accepted bevel angle..haha) with a fan profile really might not or should not apply to a splitting axe?
 
jonshonda said:
I created my first thread here asking about a good splitting axe. From what I gather it should be short and fat, with chubby cheeks and be fairly heavy at 5lbs or more. While searching the subject I saw certain profiles mentioned, but didn't understand what really made them better then others for splitting. Which is why I created the thread.

I have been watching a lot of videos and reading up on sharpening specifically for splitting. It really seems like every video and thread I have read refers back to "An Axe To Grind" for the fan method and bevel angles. That method and angle doesn't make sense to me for splitting. While I was reading through the "Splitting" section (Pg 44), I ran across this statement. "You should have a dedicated splitting axe. It's blade should have a much steeper angle then a felling and bucking axe."

My thought is that the 25 degree GABA (generally accepted bevel angle..haha) with a fan profile really might not or should not apply to a splitting axe?
Click to expand...
You are correct. That doesn't apply to a splitting mauls. They mean steeper than the 25° as you correctly figured. I file a convex 40° on my splitting mauls. I've had success taking a bit, and I only mean a little, thickness off from behind the cutting edge. Generally they get fat quick which is the whole idea to wedge the wood apart.
Some of the older, "traditional", ones have a real thick section right at the bit and then they will hollow out a bit before thickening back out to the eye and onwards towards the poll. By taking just a skosh off that thick area I've found they penetrate and split better.
 
I generally keep a fairly thin edge on my splitters that blends back into the cheeks because it's the cheeks that do most of the splitting work. The thickness of the bit will inherently put some caps on how thin you can take your angle anyhow, but I find that a thin edge on a splitter merely improves initial penetration into the wood and allows you to chop through stringy bits holding a split together or cut clean through knots without difficulty.
 
jonshonda said:
Thanks for the confirmation Josh. It just seems odd everything basically revolves around chopping. Do that many people really chop wood vs split using an axe?
Click to expand...

My firewood splitting is done by what my father often called a splitting maul. It has been in the family for three generations and I have never sharpened it in the 40+ years I have been it's caretaker. The head weighs in about 8 pounds (this is a guess as I have never weighed it and it could be more) and has always been used with a large round under the wood it was splitting. I don't know who the maker is although at some point it was painted blue and it still retains much of that paint. For splitting rails old fashioned split wedges and large hammers or sledges are the go to tools.

Many year ago when hydraulic log splitters first became available at prices that many people could afford I helped a fellow for a couple of days with his new log splitter. It did pretty good although it did run out of power on some of the old and well dried box elder we were working on. It worked much better on freshly cut wood as one might expect. Part of the reason I have enjoyed wood cutting is to help this old carcass get some exercise it could always use more of. The only chopping I do is when felling a tree for a change of pace or removing limbs. I usually buck with a chainsaw or 5 foot crosscut that is rigged for one or two man operation. Although I am learning that a Sawzall works pretty well for bucking when working on 10 inch diameter and smaller limbs if you have enough blade length.
 
As far as sharpening goes, I dont often on a dedicated splitter. I split a lot on the ground, and strikes are inevitable. There seems to be little improvement in my wood between really sharp and not very sharp at all for splitting. Once it's as dull as a hoe, I touch it up of course. A couple times a year I'd say.

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I do a ton of chopping, and theres a lot of difference in how I set up and maintain those axes.
 
As another example here's one that I filed awhile ago but haven't needed yet. It's an 8lber. 40° inclusive with a 45° micro bevel. I use my 6lb maul, which is filed the same way, when my 5lb splitting axe won't do it.
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I will hone it before use more because I enjoy sharpening than because it needs it.
I know everyone does things their own way but I've found this to work well.
 
J jonshonda , there is 2 different schools of thought on a decent design for a splitting ax. 1) school likes a shorter faced ax with cheeks right behind the sharpened edge bevel. To push the wood apart early on. 2) school advocates a longer ax face with less cheeks and more wedging, that allows the bit a deeper drive to cut (first) then wedge the split apart as it's driven in. A Heavier head in general helps the splitting ax to work.
Both work. But both don't work well on all woods. A more cheek ax and 4.5# will work on my live oak but not so good on my Emory oak and native Walnut. That wood has woven fibers that need cutting as the bit penetrates. This cutting, weakens the log fibers and allows the axe to be
driven deeper. Then the thicker metal near the eye will wedge it apart. It took me years to realize this was happening on my wood. You have to
look and analyze what is going on in the log and with your ax. You'll need to gain some experience with your wood and find out what works.
I sharpen my splitting ax after each days use. I think it really matters. I set the edge around 30-33* and finish off at 500 grit. I'll give you some photos of some decent shaped axes that work. The first photo is of a Council flat head fireman's ax(L). Beside it is a Hults Burks about a 1950's ax. These 2 show the 2 schools of thought I was describing above. DM
HultsvsC.jpg
 
Here is another photo: the first ax has a limbing & felling profile, a Wards Master Quality, 2) is a Mann True American ax w/ a little more cheek and 3) a Hults Burk.
The Wards ax is a great ax to use for bucking, felling and limb work. Then the Hults I would use for splitting. DM
MannHultWard.jpg
 
David Martin said:
A more cheek ax and 4.5# will work on my live oak but not so good on my Emory oak and native Walnut. That wood has woven fibers that need cutting as the bit penetrates. This cutting, weakens the log fibers and allows the axe to be
driven deeper. Then the thicker metal near the eye will wedge it apart. It took me years to realize this was happening on my wood.
Click to expand...

My experience mirrors Davids. I want a sharp axe axe to cut some fibers on the way in, getting deep enough to take good purchase and then having cheeks thick enough to start the splitting action.

The shape of an axe edge depends on the conditions it will be used in. I will use a similarly sharp axe, similar bevel shape for bucking or splitting clean wood in conditions that aren't likely to damage the edge. But if I'll be cutting close to the ground, barking dirty trees for a crosscut or splitting dirty wood or wood close to the ground then I'll set a more durable edge.

I generally file to the Forest Service axe gauge or close to it. But I'll roll into the bit faster for a rough service axe. I may even file differentially, making a slimmer profile in the center of the bit and a more durable profile at the heel and especially at the toe.

The shape of the bevel is determined by the shape of the cheeks. Nicely convexed cheeks wth a very high centerline will have a longer bevel. Very flat-cheeked axes will have more of a radial grind with no need to file deep to get to the Forest Service gauge.

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I agree with Square_peg.I personally prefer a 35 degree edge thats very sharp with a fat head.I have an old handmade axe I like made from 1095 that starts about 2mm at the fan shaped edge and progresses to about 3 inches at the square hammerhead and weighs about 5lbs.It bites right in and splits quickly with less effort.It's all about physics and geomety.The wider the edge the more effort you have to put in to split and im kinda lazy.Too thin of an axe head and it will get stuck and not split.It has to have a good taper.Not enough weight same thing.It's a whole different story for a camp axe or a throwing axe though.Chopping and splitting require different configurations.Always keep your tools sharp for efficiency.
 
Since I chipped in my two cents regarding my maul preference here's how I prefer my splitting axe.
I keep it between 27° & 30°. And I do thin the cheeks back a little. And I always split on a stump out of preference.
Almost impossible for me to get a photo at night of the top edge of my axe but I tried...:confused:
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That was the best picture... sad. But you can see that it's almost as thin as a falling axe. But not quite..
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I fall and burn exclusively red oak for firewood and it splits like a dream. It's rare that this axe won't split a piece. After splitting all last year this axe is still very sharp. And I drove it through some damn hard knots and twisted grain too. It's a good working edge.
 

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Another thing that gets over looked is oiling your axe with an oil that sticks to metal well and keeps it slippery to reduce friction.I use duralube spray it helps with corrosion too but it helps your axe slip right through the wood.I respray about every 12 logs or so.This may be a subtle touch but,I notice when I dont lube.Like I said im kinda lazy.I use everything in my arsenal to find the path of least resistance.
 
Shawn, I need to take the time to oil my ax more often when using it. That's a good point. I oil it after sharpening and not much during use.
Plus, I've noticed it's always the first 1.5" of the toe that shows the most dulling after splitting. DM
 
I oil all of my blade if I use them for rough service especially if I am fond of it.It's like your car engine.with poor lubrication friction destroys the metal by creating heat.Heat takes the temper out of your blade.Not just any oil will do.It has to stick to the metal well and you want one that hold up to heat.Duralube is drawn to heat and sticks very good to metal meaning its not going to rub off in the wood.You dont want it dripping with oil either.It will make your wood stink when you burn it.Just a thin coat maintained as you use it.I have found silicone based oil tend to work best.Sythetic motor oils work well.General purpose silicone oils work like the one you use on bearings and radio controled cars.
 
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