Splitting wedges and axes

G

g123

Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
329
Hey Guys,

What type of axes can you use for wood craft (20" to 26" handles) and can be used to pounding a firewood spiting wedge also without ruining the axe?

I am looking into carrying a smaller axe with a lighter splitting wedge rather a larger axe that does not do both tasks well.

Does such an axe exist?

Thanks,

Geoff
 
what type of wedge and how big of logs?
cause i have used wood wedges with my small forest axe and have had no problems but never on more than a 10" log, but that being said i rarely need a wedge
 
Wedges, in my passing experience, work best with a maul more than an axe.

But any well-made single bit axe with a decent poll will work with a wedge; however, it becomes more about how good you are with an axe than the tool. The good news is that if you're smart and safe (and you post here, so you gotta be), you get get the technique down pretty easily.

As always, check the 360 degrees around you and *above* you when swinging the axe: remember that when hitting with the poll of the axe, the blade is aimed toward you.

Using a shorter axe means less leverage, which means you'll work harder with wedges. But a decent camping axe and some good long wedges should have you splitting pretty big pieces of wood in little time.
 
Calebklne,

That is what I am looking for. To be able to split 10" rounds cut by a cross cut saw and split. I really like the GB or Wetterlings SFA or Scandi Forest axe size because of the cutting ability, but they do not split wood of any size. I have a Council Tool Boys Axe and it does a better job at splitting, but not rounds that size and it's not as good as the GB or Wetterlings for Bushcaft work.

So my Idea is instead of carrying heavy tools that are not great at doing any thing, Carry specific tools made for specific tasks without a lot of weight.

I have a Fanno cross cut saw with a 24” blade that weighs 1-1/2 pounds. If I bought a smaller light splitting wedge and teamed it up with a smaller axe that can be used to pound the wedge, I would have the best of all worlds for about the same weight.

So are there any good bushcraft axes that will not get damaged by using them with a wedge.

Your guy's thoughts are appreciated.

Geoff
 
I would second the plastic wedges, I believe the typical camp axes are not recommended for use on metal wedges...could be wrong on this but I think GB stated this in their booklet. Besides, the plastic wedges are much lighter.
 
Yeah I have to agree with the others unless you want to make your own I would suggest plastic wedges
 
I'd suggest making your own wedges, it's pretty easy, so is making a baton for pounding the wedge, no sharp edges to worry about.

The wedges I used in the past were metal, and you use a maul to pound 'em, they are a team, a triangle maul for starting the split and metal wedge that's driven.

In theory you could fashion your own wedge and maul/baton, carry a small axe/hatchet/knife along with a light weight saw and have what you need, only limited by the size of the saw for wood you want to split with wedges.
 
Steel wedges should not be hit with the poll of an axe, they are not hardened for that, and you will deform the eye -- no matter the brand. For steel wedges, a sledgehammer is best, followed by a maul -- if you have a maul, why not use it instead of a wedge?

You can either get the aforementioned plastic wedges, or just hew a couple of wooden wedges on site.

For the cruiser size of axe you're talking about, get a Gransfors Scandinavian Forest Axe (25") or the Wetterlings equivalent. I've heard some not so good things about Snow & Neally since they are no longer a family business.
 
I have the largest GB maul and, if my memory serves me, it is the only one they recommend for consistently pounding the large/heavy steel wedges.

By the way, out of all the steel wedges I have, the GB is my favorite. That wedge shaved hair straight from the factory so you didn't need to hit it with anything to start it in a log. Just stick it in. It also has a very useful twist forged into it, as well as friction-reducing chevrons. Works well for me.

DancesWithKnives
 
I bought some plastic wedges from here:

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15335&catID=

I got some 5.5" and 8" ones. The 8" ones work very well in splitting some very tough oak firewood. I used a GB SFA. The 5.5" ones were blunter so more difficult to get started in the crack made by the axe. Since I was splitting firewood I think a 10" would be even better. I was surprised how tough the plastic was.
 
Not to be rude but plastic wedges are for felling not splitting. This is the reason they are found next to the chainsaws.

Ski
 
ohski said:
Not to be rude but plastic wedges are for felling not splitting. This is the reason they are found next to the chainsaws.

Ski
Click to expand...

Hmmm. How could I be so stupid. Maybe I can glue that wood back together and use a proper wedge.

If it works use it.
 
Snow and Nealley makes a mini maul with 18'' handle. As stated previously, mauls are designed to pound a wedge and doing so with an axe can damage the eye.

I'm curious why one would carry a maul or axe for splitting. Splitting wood is primarily done to "season" or dry the wood. Green wood contains around 45% water and needs to be 25% or less to burn, which can occur over a summers drying. For bushcraft, it would be better to select dry wood to burn.

For around home, a maul is the only way to go. I have a Gransfors large splitting axe and an 8 pound maul. The Gransfors is 3 1/2 pounds and a wonderful work of craftsmanship. However, head-to-head it does not compare to the heavier maul. Weight makes a tremendous difference when splitting large rounds.

The weight is another reason why I would not bother with carrying a splitting axe or maul into the bush. Even S&N's mini maul is over 3 lbs, add a splitting wedge and you are near 7 lbs (assuming one has a splitting wedge and not a plastic felling wedge).
 
You'd split wood int he field if:
1.) It's standing deadwood or deadfall that's been there a while, but the outside is soaked from rain, and you want to get the dry wood in the middle.

or

2.) If you only want to use deadfall, rather than cut a live tree, and all the folks who are too weak to carry a hatchet used up all the smaller branches and such.

Either way, I wouldn't bother with a maul. Large wood can be split with just a hatchet itself, or using wooden wedges made on site.
 
Or you could get a fiskars axe, which is pretty much a wedge set in a plastic Handel. No eye deformation to worry about
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Either way, I wouldn't bother with a maul. Large wood can be split with just a hatchet itself, or using wooden wedges made on site.
Click to expand...

I agree that with leaving the maul at home and that such work may be done with a hatchet. In the first scenario, a hatchet could be used to split off the outside wet portions. In the second case (which I am envisioning as a long deadfall with no branches), one could split the log lengthwise with a hatchet and wooden wedges, but it could be sectioned with an axe or saw. Splitting alone would leave one with long split pieces of wood that would likely be ill fitting for the fire. If that were the only wood available, then sectioning and splitting (or splitting then sectioning) may be the only choice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top