Spraying WD-40 on a folder?

WD-40 has trace amounts of muriatic acid in it. Spraying it on your knife will surely cause problems.

But seriously, it'll be fine...
 
WD-40 would help it function more smoothly for a time, but it's not meant to be a long term lubricant. For long term lubrication of the joint, there are much better, longer lasting products, like nano oil, Blue Lube (Benchmade), Tuff Glide, and the are a lot of others. The Modification and Embellishment forum here might have some good ideas.

Previous threads from this year on oils & lubes:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1355824-What-oil-for-maintanance?highlight=WD-40

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Knife-Lube-What-s-your-method?highlight=WD-40

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1408732-knife-oil?highlight=WD-40

~Chris
 
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My hands down favorite lubricant oil is Rem oil. Made for guns but works wonders on knives and multitools. If anybody here feels that's a bad idea please tell me. I have long known that WD-40 is bad for knives but not sure why. Looks like the fella above me knows why
 
I can't stand Rem oil or WD on my firearms and or tools. I, personally, find them inferior to other products out on the market. I prefer Frog Lube in most all cases. In other cases I use LPS Labs products. Look up those two and order some products. Wait till you see the difference. I bet you will likely retire the Rem Oil & WD and give it away. Or use it as a fire starter or for trash and junk projects.

EDIT: FWIW: if you prep food with your folder, Frog Lube and LPS both have food grade lubricants. I find that very important to me.
 
orca8589 said:
WD-40 would help it function more smoothly for a time, but it's not meant to be a long term lubricant. For long term lubrication of the joint, there are much better, longer lasting products, like nano oil, Blue Lube (Benchmade), Tuff Glide, and the are a lot of others. The Modification and Embellishment forum here might have some good ideas.

~Chris
Click to expand...

Really? Do ya'll know what "WD40" actually stands for?

WD 40 stands for "water dry 40th composititon". So, where did WD40 come from? A group of scientist's were tasked with finding a product that would keep corrosion from forming on Nuclear warheads. Nuclear warheads that were sitting in a moist condition in underground silo's. And it took them 40 different combinations before them came up with what became WD40. Hence Water Dry 40.

As I grew up during the early Seventies, I was introduced to the Skeet Shooting community. And the Quail and Dove hunting community. I promise you. These shooters, shooting 100's of rounds a day. Some shooting shotguns that cost Hundreds of times more than most knives, used WD40 to wipe down their guns before putting them in their cases. I saw this thousands of times. I've wiped down my guns, AR-15's, Semi-auto shotguns, pump guns, bolt guns, pistols, revolvers....I think that covers most. And I have exactly 0 problems with rust. And I live in Central Alabama where humidity is very high.

As far as "traces of Muriatic acid". OK then. That's because Nuclear Warheads do better being protected with a lubricant containing Muriatic acid? I guess. NOT.

I don't use WD40 as a lube. It makes a nice thin lube. I use it as a protectant. I use Wal-Mart 10w30 synthetic as a lube. How much lubrication do ya'll think a knife needs exactly?
 
Fishing rod reel oil is all I've been using lately, and some gun oil on my carbon blades for a light coating to prevent corrosion.
 
It's actually "Water Displacing #40.
WD 40 contains no traces of muriatic acid. Where do you guys get this stuff?:rolleyes:
The lubricant in WD 40 is mineral oil-just like the lubricant in 99% of the other oils on the market.
I have used WD40 every day in my professional knife restoration shop for years.
 
sirupatespecial said:
Really? Do ya'll know what "WD40" actually stands for?
Click to expand...

"Water Displacement, Formula #40".

sirupatespecial said:
A group of scientist's were tasked with finding a product that would keep corrosion from forming on Nuclear warheads. Nuclear warheads that were sitting in a moist condition in underground silo's.
Click to expand...

Not used on nuclear warheads, but used on the thin-skinned fuel tanks of Atlas ICBM's.

When I talked about it not being a long-term lubricant, I was speaking from my own experience, using WD-40 as lubricant. It works pretty well, but seems to evaporate much more quickly than other lubricants available today. WD-40 as a rust-preventive coating works wonderfully. Half of my yard & pruning tools in the garage are coated with it for the winter.

~Chris
 
I wouldn't use it as a lubricant for a folders action, but for cleaning folders they are great. You can spray them down to clean the crud out then wipe them down and put a drop of oil in the pivot action.

I think I also heard that CRK sprays down their titanium grips with WD-40 before shipping them out. Gives them a fresh gleam.
 
The military does not allow WD-40 to be used on small arms.
Combined with powder residue if forms a vey tough varnish type of coating which will cause jamming malfunctions.
In the Vietnam era it was a real problem.

Research tests of rust/corrosion comparisons with WD-40, not the best.

As a cleaner penetrating oil, fine,,,, much better lubricants are available today.

Regards,
FK
 
Bill DeShivs said:
The lubricant in WD 40 is mineral oil-just like the lubricant in 99% of the other oils on the market.
I have used WD40 every day in my professional knife restoration shop for years.
Click to expand...

+1.

WD-40 is just mineral oil plus mineral spirits. The latter works as a mild solvent, then evaporates leaving behind the mineral oil. Btw, Leatherman's website recommends WD-40.

FWIW, Johnson's Baby oil is also mineral oil plus fragrance.

WD-40 fine, as long you are okay with mineral oil.

Other fine contenders:

- Breakfree CLP. I spray this stuff on anything that moves. Love it.
- Ballistol. Stinky but good. Spray it on leather and wood too.
- Boeshield T-9 (solvent plus waxy compound; the solvent evaporates, leaving a waxy coating that endures. Made by Boeing for aircraft. Good stuff).

Just my opinion.
 
Boeshield is awesome stuff for steel that gets around salty water/humid air.

I'm using Fireclean, and I know some other folks are fans of Froglube.
 
My new orange Delica 4 was looking a little dirty. Some hot water and WD-40 cleaned the FRN scales back to their original glow.

I use a drop or two of Tuff Glide for lubricant at the pivot.
 
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