Spring steel question

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Feb 10, 2013
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I just received a book on making lockback folders. In it they recommend using 1.4310 spring steel for the spring as it will not rust. Does anyone know where I could buy some of this material, or is there a North American equivalent that I could purchase? Thanks in advance.

edit to add....the recommended diameter is 2mm (0.0787").
 
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Screen shot taken from "Knife Steel Compositions" app.


They are likely referring to blade stock, but I would wait for more informed others to comment for a definite answer.
 
Screen shot taken from "Knife Steel Compositions" app.


They are likely referring to blade stock, but I would wait for more informed others to comment for a definite answer.

300 serie's steel are not hardenable, still won't rust and as rolled (work hardening) exibit enough hardness/springness to be used as springs as they are commonly used i.e. in food industry...
if you buy wire use it for your spring with no concerns :-)
 
Thanks for the info. I found some 2mm wire on eBay. I also found some 2mm flat dental wire. I assume it's the same?
 
300 serie's steel are not hardenable, still won't rust and as rolled (work hardening) exibit enough hardness/springness to be used as springs as they are commonly used i.e. in food industry...
if you buy wire use it for your spring with no concerns :-)

Good to know, Thank you.
I figured it didn't have enough carbon to harden, but didn't look much further into it seeing as how I was betting on a sufficient answer on here.

Thanks again.
 
Not that type of design. It will be like #1 in this pic. Or maybe #3.

IMG_20160204_165624_zpsczki69dn.jpg
 
In that case, use simple 1095 high carbon spring wire.
 
Not if you squirt a little WD 40 in there. Stainless generally doesn't work well for springs. Using work-hardened stainless is not a good idea. Work-hardened metals will be springy for a while, but as they move, they become more work-hardened -until they break.
This could very well be why people are always talking about springs failing or getting weak- perhaps those springs are made of low carbon, work hardened stainless wire. High carbon steel doesn't act that way.
 
if you have the ability to heat treat you could, and maybe should use carbon or martensitic stainless, but for that type of construction the 300 serie would go just right.
You can bend the spring as you like to control the preload, and with that section and small range of movement you'll stay in the proportional range, hence no work hardening will take place to lead to the issue Bill correctly pointed out. On the contrary even carbon or martensitic stainless would fail for work hardening in the same application :)
All said, but i must add that i wouldn't use 300 serie's steels for the spring of a slipjoint knife where the forces are bigger and for galding concerns.
 
Thanks for all the info gentlemen. I also ordered a book on making slip joints and will be using AEB-L for the back spacer/spring. Maybe I will try S35VN on one as I have some sitting here that I haven't touched yet. So many things I want to do and so little time.
 
301 stainless steel has been used for springs for many years, at least 50 years .I remember using it in the early 1970s !! As a 300 series it can't be hardened by HT but work hardened instead.In the FULL HARD condition it makes fine springs , the right hardness and of course stainless !! Use it !
 
Think of bending a coat hanger wire until it breaks. As you bend it, it begins to stiffen. This is work hardening. If you keep bending it in the same spot, it breaks.
While 300 series stainless may have been used as spring material for a long time, it's quite inferior to high carbon spring wire, with the exception of corrosion resistance.
 
I stopped by a hobby shop and picked up 3 lengths of 0.078" spring wire which should allow me to make a lot of mistakes and still have some left over. Thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it.
 
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