Spyderco/Farid K2

Can anyone tell me the name of someone who would be able to mill a new spot for the clip so that its tip up carry? Like with the cut out and everything, I really hate tip down carry.
 
Hmmm got mine today too...

First Spyderco in... yes over 20yrs.. and well, the lockbar sticks majorly and engages at 60-70% (engaging at 60-70% not an issue). The lockbar is so stiff and placement of hand makes it almost impossible to close one handed... The detent is very stiff and gritty. The "Spyder Hole" has sharp inside edges.. no edges knocked off, no chamfering or rounding. I still don't like that it was made over seas. All of that all really bums me out..

THE GOOD.. The blade is sharp out of the box. The blade is centered. No blade play or lockrock. The lanyard hole tube acts as some structural support and the one screw near lanyard hole has a large tube to help spread out pressure. This all looks good.

I think the way the lock side is made, forces most people with normal to large sized hands to put pressure on the lockbar itself.. This obviously goes against the direction you want to push when trying to release the lock and close the damn knife!


So... size and weight.. I like.. I'm over 6'2" and have large hands. I really like the clip placement. In the pocket it rides great.

I've come to the conclusion, that.. I don't care for Spydercos-still. I like the K2 design. I will buy a Farid K2 custom. I think for a production knife, this is very well made with the exceptions noted in my first paragraph...

So... what am I going to do? Use it.. cut stuff and more than likely sell it used on the X in a month or so after I've decided I don't like using two hands to close a knife.

I hate crashing down on this party... I can't wait to test the steel/ht... but the lockbar stiffness and how hard it is to position hand to even try to open hand close it is quite a disappointment.. And that sharp inside hole, gah...

This is just my first impression and first day with this knife..

I hope others are finding this knife easier to close than I am.. Please comment on lockbar stickiness, closing one handed, and how you think the placement of the bar works on this handle.. Hard to explain what I mean there.. sorry :D

The scales are nice. The overall design looks great and feels good in hand. I like that it is 10v.. I like that it is from Farid's design.

It IS a beast of a knife. This is good :)

If one thing could be fixed, it'd be how impossible it is to disengage the lock... it is a bit insane. I might send it back, but if this is how the knife is... then...



Hello Chris,
Here is the info, just so people will understand more regarding the tension of frame locks and liner locks.

when I make the custom version I can either set the lock a little tight or a little on the easy side, it is a simple thing to fix (that is if you wish to change the factory spec) ,

It is up to you if you wish to do this, please ask about warranty side of things, but it is a simple thing, you can simply take the knife apart, take the lock stabilizer out, bend the lock bar just enough, so you have less tension, so it goes across a little less, the way I have done this in the past is to make sure the lock bar only goes across 'just pass the full thickness of the blade + the washers, this works for me. I hope you understand what I mean.
The lock should be a 'solid lockup', it may not be to everyone's liking but it is a perfect lockup but the tension can easily be changed.
take care
F
 
Can anyone tell me the name of someone who would be able to mill a new spot for the clip so that its tip up carry? Like with the cut out and everything, I really hate tip down carry.
If I were going to do it I would scrap the stock clip and just go with the regular 3 hole pattern. Milling that patch adds to the complexity quite a bit. Although, I had my machine shop mill the two slots for a wire clip in the Ti of my Chokwe. I will say if you have a guy mill the slot have him also do a filler piece for the tip down slot.
 
...
I'd rather not add scales to make it work. :(


The look and feel of the knife is awesome!

More feedback!

I added the scales because the knife felt a little too thin for its size. I think i have bear paws or something.

Here it is with the scales, beside a ZT200. Notice how much thinner it is without the scales.
20140417_145943.jpg


In-hand, the length is fine, but a little too thin for my liking, and I really like it a lot overall.
2013-02-14_12-44-59_87_zpsd5308b81.jpg

20140214_211654.jpg
 
... damn you gooey. That does look good and I can see how it would eliminate the fingers pressing against the lockbar problem when trying to close.

Farid, thanks for responding. I mean no bash on your design or Spyderco for that matter. And the lockup % is fine, but the stickiness of this Spyderco K2 is a bit much. Also I'd be afraid if you bent it back any, it wouldn't engage the tang for tight lockup. So again, the lockup being "late" is fine :) And hope you are doing well so far sir!

That being said, I suppose the folder of yours that I am used to is the T1000, which is a liner lock... O_O And a great knife! :)

And I'll chat with you about the custom version later, no rush yet? Thanks again.


Also after putting some nano oil in this Spyderco K2, the washers seemed to have purged the grit and it is not smoother and still no blade play any direction after several test openings and closings and some wood cutting. o_O Cheers!
 
I do have a few questions/observations about the design and looking at the changes from the customs to the Spyderco collaboration.

Why so much space between where your finger is and where the cutting edge begins? There's about an inch and a half distance between them. That decreases the leverage you can apply during a cut. Was decreasing the applied force intentional?

283920-farid-k2-framelock-in-cpm-rex-121-left-friendly.jpg


The Spyderco collaboration decreased that distance. It also changed the saber grind to FFG, again increasing cutting performance but decreasing strength. I'm wondering why the custom uses a saber grind and not FFG? Or conversely, why the FFG on the Spyderco versus a saber grind for additional strength at the cost of cutting performance? What were the thoughts behind this feature choice?

spyderco_amsterdammeet2014_productionprototype_k2.jpg
 
... damn you gooey. That does look good and I can see how it would eliminate the fingers pressing against the lockbar problem when trying to close.

Farid, thanks for responding. I mean no bash on your design or Spyderco for that matter. And the lockup % is fine, but the stickiness of this Spyderco K2 is a bit much. Also I'd be afraid if you bent it back any, it wouldn't engage the tang for tight lockup. So again, the lockup being "late" is fine :) And hope you are doing well so far sir!

That being said, I suppose the folder of yours that I am used to is the T1000, which is a liner lock... O_O And a great knife! :)

And I'll chat with you about the custom version later, no rush yet? Thanks again.


Also after putting some nano oil in this Spyderco K2, the washers seemed to have purged the grit and it is not smoother and still no blade play any direction after several test openings and closings and some wood cutting. o_O Cheers!

Glad you still have your T-1000,
With the exception of I am way behind on things due to my surgery I had and the recovery time but I am now able to walk and stand long enough to do stuff, so I'm back on my feet again. lets talk later my friend.
F
 
I do have a few questions/observations about the design and looking at the changes from the customs to the Spyderco collaboration.

Why so much space between where your finger is and where the cutting edge begins? There's about an inch and a half distance between them. That decreases the leverage you can apply during a cut. Was decreasing the applied force intentional?

283920-farid-k2-framelock-in-cpm-rex-121-left-friendly.jpg


The Spyderco collaboration decreased that distance. It also changed the saber grind to FFG, again increasing cutting performance but decreasing strength. I'm wondering why the custom uses a saber grind and not FFG? Or conversely, why the FFG on the Spyderco versus a saber grind for additional strength at the cost of cutting performance? What were the thoughts behind this feature choice?

spyderco_amsterdammeet2014_productionprototype_k2.jpg

I have made different versions in the past, with your reference to FFG, I have made them that way as the picture below indicates.


As far as the choice of grind, if it is a saber or FFG it sometimes comes down to 'I choose to offer something different than the last batch', same collectors may choose to buy my custom K2 with different spec entirely.
With reference to cutting ability, yes the closer the grind is to the handle the more leverage you have on the cutting, FFG will cut much better than saber, in my opinion one of the best combination of 'grind and edge geometry' would be a FFG with a rolled edge which is what I am offering in my next custom D3 tool steel K2 project.
F
 
When I got mine I noticed it was tight right away, but figured it was supposed to be that way. I have seen one other well known custom maker do this. It breaks in very nicely and in fact mine is already beginning to close /unlock much easier. The grinds, edge, finish and everything on it were all first quality. This was the first clue I had that the knife was supposed to come a little tight. Mine was sharp enough that it bit me twice which is not something I usually have happen.

Overall I'm very happy with mine and feel fortunate to be able to get one of the first ones.

As far as taking it apart to adjust it only do it if you are good at that sort of thing. You can violate your warranty by taking it apart and working on it yourself. That is standard through much of the knife industry. It's realistic though. If someone damages it why should Spyderco have to pay. On the other hand if you take it apart and know what you are doing I've heard of the W&R still giving warranty service on items that truly are defective and not something buggered up by the new owner.

If the knife comes to you really with a lock that you can't close safely it would probably be best for ham handed guys like me to send it in rather than try to fix it causing it, or some other part to get worse. I stopped working on my car decades ago because of my tendency to break bolts, or have parts fall into places they can't be easily retrieved from. Perhaps that came from working on the railroad and also building bridges where tools were pretty large, and sockets were as big as my head, wrenches were 4 foor long or more. :)
 
Gooeytek: I really like the look of those scales with the design. Less industrial, but I'm sure the feel is awesome. Always preferred the feel of G10/Micarta/wood to metal.

Mastiff: get to do any testing with your copy? Anything planned?

Farid: "rolled edge" = convex edge?
 
I have no issues disengaging the lock one-handed. It's definitely on the solid tough side and you need a strong thumb. Lockup is solid at 70% and not moving. The lock stickiness is gone. Seemed more a function of the tight lockup. Very solid construction. Very light for how big it is. The big donut standoff at the bottom is quite a pillar of support.
 
Gooeytek: I really like the look of those scales with the design. Less industrial, but I'm sure the feel is awesome. Always preferred the feel of G10/Micarta/wood to metal.

Mastiff: get to do any testing with your copy? Anything planned?

Farid: "rolled edge" = convex edge?

yes like a convex edge, not the grind as the grind is still flat, just the edge.
 
I have no issues disengaging the lock one-handed. It's definitely on the solid tough side and you need a strong thumb. Lockup is solid at 70% and not moving. The lock stickiness is gone. Seemed more a function of the tight lockup. Very solid construction. Very light for how big it is. The big donut standoff at the bottom is quite a pillar of support.

Me either, open and close one handed no issues. :)
 
Mastiff: get to do any testing with your copy? Anything planned?

I have just been using it in place of my other knives. Usually Enduras, and quite often the Super Blue version at that though I do have all variants all the way back to the beginning in 92.

It took a little getting used to for me not because of the size. I carry a Millie or three ( versions) and don't have a problem with size or weight. For some reason I got bit twice and it was due to the aggressive edge 10V ( and pretty much all super high carbide steels) take. It will still cut even when it doesn't seem as sharp. It may not make clean cuts on paper but be careful when it comes to skin.

If I was going to test it properly I would be covering the same ground as Jim did and to be honest he is better at it than I am. Jim has his technique down and makes his testing almost look easy. It is anything but though. Perhaps that's why Jim has those Popeye forearms. :) Myself, I need a second surgery on my right shoulder ( or 3rd, can't remember). It's getting to the point I have trouble closing the refrigerator door so cutting a kilometer of cardboard is out of the question. That limits the kind of tests I can do. I just carry the new knives like I do my old ones and see how they compare.

I haven't even put a stone to the edge yet. I have only stropped it on diamond and cardboard, then leather I use for straight razors and such. I noticed the edge comes back pretty easily and it didn't need a resharpening from my use. I do really like the FFG blades for EDC folders. Spyderco keeps knives reasonable but leaning towards performance when it comes to grinds, thickness, angles and such. Note also they are willing to run steels generally higher than they would have 5 to 10 years ago. It's easy to see they have confidence in all stages of their knife making process including heat treat/cryo.

I have deliberately not cleaned the blade after using it in the kitchen to see how the steel compared corrosion resistance wise to other steels I'm very used to using around the house. Namely VG10, Super Blue, ZDP, and CPM Cruwear, as well as 3V.

There was no attempt to try to start a patina as I don't believe in that. I keep my blades clean and properly cared for and deal with any oxidation if it happens as an unwelcome guest. To be honest I can't tell the difference in 10V, Cruwear, 3V in doing things like cutting meat, opening packages both frozen and wet, things like that. Nothing like Cider vinegar was used though as I've seen stainless steels begin corroding from that.

In 4 days of not cleaning the edge both my VG10 and 10V blades were the same. No stains or rust spots. Super blue does not make it that long before it needs care. The rest are about the same as the the 10V. They were getting sufficiently nasty that I couldn't take it any more and had to clean them. Just a wipe down with oil to get the glue and other sticky stuff off with no staining. Yes, I'd expect the VG10 to do better in the long run because of it's composition but the 10V , like 3V and Cruwear is noticeably more corrosion resistant than Super blue, O-1, White steels, and others.

I have settled on clear, liquid silicone for my corrosion prone blades, and Renn wax during storage but with some steels I don't bother. 10v looks to be one of these. If any acidic or salt gets on the blade I wash it then dry with a clean cloth. That's when I would apply the silicone. Only after washing off the corrosive substance. With normal use this steel should be pretty easy to keep clean and rust free.
 
Me either, open and close one handed no issues. :)

Wish I could say the same. Unlocking mine is a two-handed affair. This might be the stickiest lock I've encountered so far.

This thread is due for another photo so here is a comparison with the Southfork and Spyderco K04 Kitchen knife.

 
Thanks, Mastiff. I was wondering about its corrosion resistance. Have an M4 blade that rusted on me as I sharpened it so I get worried with some of these steels. Cruwear and 3V has been good to me so hopefully same with this. Good info!
 
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