Spyderco Green S110V

singularity35 said:
Oh yes! I mostly use the moldmasters now. I get more consistent results from them than from the stock EP stones. I like them so much that I have a lifetime supply headed my way. :D
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Good to hear. Have you ever used the 80 for anything? Some pretty hardcore stock removal maybe?
 
Thanks ..........I could always put a piece of tape on them to tighten them up or something.
I just wanted to see if I bought the right size ????
Iam hopeing someone else will chime in that has done this.
 
from the link I provided, it seems that the stones are hit or miss as far as precise sizing to fit the sharpmaker, but you seem to have the right idea. I'm sure any fit issues can be solved by a bit of ingenuity.
 
KNaB said:
Good to hear. Have you ever used the 80 for anything? Some pretty hardcore stock removal maybe?
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I use the 240 grit for most steels. I use the 150 grit for more abrasion resistant ones. When I use the 150 grit, I usually stop before hitting the edge. I find that I microchip some steels when I get to the edge with the 150 grit. I might try some of that 80 grit at some point though.

djdawg said:
Thanks ..........I could always put a piece of tape on them to tighten them up or something.
I just wanted to see if I bought the right size ????
Iam hopeing someone else will chime in that has done this.
Click to expand...

I prefer clamping rectangular stones to the sharpmaker rods. Might just be me but IMHO, I get a more precise angle that way that from possibly tight or loose fitting triangular rods.
 
I prefer clamping rectangular stones to the sharpmaker rods. Might just be me but IMHO, I get a more precise angle that way that from possibly tight or loose fitting triangular rods.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that bit of info .............I just saw it after rereading everything ........... thank you for the idea.
 
Iam just gettin into the sharpening aspect of it more ..............
I have paper wheels , edge pro , belt sanders , and now just ordered a sharpmaker and some moldmaster stones.
I had an gatco , but dislike clamping systems..............so I gave that one away.
 
djdawg said:
Thanks for that bit of info .............I just saw it after rereading everything ........... thank you for the idea.
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De nada. :)

djdawg said:
Iam just gettin into the sharpening aspect of it more ..............
I have paper wheels , edge pro , belt sanders , and now just ordered a sharpmaker and some moldmaster stones.
I had an gatco , but dislike clamping systems..............so I gave that one away.
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Whoa! I can only drool at your sharpening systems. :)
 
I need to resharpen mine. There is a 1/2 inch long dull area on my factory edge. Ordinarily Spyderco does fantastic factory sharpening, but once in a while one will slip through with a not so great edge. Of all the knives I have from them it had to be a s110v blade with the dull edge, lol. Oh well...
My Lansky system takes FOREVER, or maybe I'm just really slow. I need a Wicked Edge.
 
Moxy said:
I need to resharpen mine. There is a 1/2 inch long dull area on my factory edge. Ordinarily Spyderco does fantastic factory sharpening, but once in a while one will slip through with a not so great edge. Of all the knives I have from them it had to be a s110v blade with the dull edge, lol. Oh well...
My Lansky system takes FOREVER, or maybe I'm just really slow. I need a Wicked Edge.
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If we're gonna have a bit of trouble with S110V, imagine an assembly line sharpening 700-800 knives. ;)
 
singularity35 said:
If we're gonna have a bit of trouble with S110V, imagine an assembly line sharpening 700-800 knives. ;)
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I already did, and it's depressing. :) What are you clamping the MM stones to the Sharpmaker stones with??? Sounds interesting.
 
JNewell said:
I already did, and it's depressing. :) What are you clamping the MM stones to the Sharpmaker stones with??? Sounds interesting.
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Something like this.

7510362003.jpg
 
JNewell said:
I already did, and it's depressing. :) What are you clamping the MM stones to the Sharpmaker stones with??? Sounds interesting.
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I was clamping MM starting with 120 grit to Sharpmaker rods, but even withS30V it was taking forever. WE works much faster.
 
bh49 said:
I was clamping MM starting with 120 grit to Sharpmaker rods, but even withS30V it was taking forever. WE works much faster.
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Agreed, I've said it before but I'll say it again, the WE is hands down the best system for reprofiling on the market in my opinion. There are other means to a sharp edge, but if you want a perfectly even, mirror polished bevel at the angle of your choosing, the wicked edge really is the way to go.
 
singularity35 said:
I use the 240 grit for most steels. I use the 150 grit for more abrasion resistant ones. When I use the 150 grit, I usually stop before hitting the edge. I find that I microchip some steels when I get to the edge with the 150 grit. I might try some of that 80 grit at some point though.



I prefer clamping rectangular stones to the sharpmaker rods. Might just be me but IMHO, I get a more precise angle that way that from possibly tight or loose fitting triangular rods.
Click to expand...

I do the exact same thing. No problems at all. I use the 400 grit stones and they reprofile M390 quickly. Phil Wilson uses silicon carbide stones on even more wear resistance steels as well.
 
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