Spyderco Green S110V

Do I understand you guys right that you are using MM flat stones in 120 or 240 grit clipped to the sharpmaker and it works very well?

I am checking into them as looking for what grits I should get. :)
 
Steel130 said:
I do the exact same thing. No problems at all. I use the 400 grit stones and they reprofile M390 quickly. Phil Wilson uses silicon carbide stones on even more wear resistance steels as well.
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Very nice! Is that the WE system and what angles did you use?
 
sir_mike said:
Do I understand you guys right that you are using MM flat stones in 120 or 240 grit clipped to the sharpmaker and it works very well?
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Most of the people in this thread are using MM with EdgePro. This work much faster than with sharpmaker. technique is totally different.
 
ToxicBot11 said:
Very nice! Is that the WE system and what angles did you use?
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Thanks. If I recall both were 12* per side. I just clamp the MM stone on The Sharpmaker stone. I don't do strokes when I rebevel, I sort of scrub the stone. Jdavis has a video that shows the technique.
 
bh49 said:
Without doubts WE is quite expensive. I bought sharpmaker eight years ago and love this tool, except when I need to reprofile blades. During this time I tried several inexpensive option to speed-up reprofiling without spending tons of money. I used triangular congress stones, leaned DMT and flat congress stone against sharpmaker rods. As a result I spent tons of money and didn't get the result, which would satisfy me. Finally I decided to get EdgePro, but after some research and watching both system in action on the knife show, I decided to get WE "F&S" model and love it. I didn't use it on S110V yet, bur reprofiled my S35N Native5 at no time. Save your money and buy WE.
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So you got the WE Field & Sport. Which one gives you the most bang for the buck? Is the WE100 the one to get or is the WE100PR1 worth the additional $115? At $699 the WE100PR2 is definitely out..

With steels like S110V & K390 I'm thinking a WE might be the only way to reprofile a knife that uses those steels.
 
ToxicBot11 said:
With steels like S110V & K390 I'm thinking a WE might be the only way to reprofile a knife that uses those steels.
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S110v went down pretty easy to my red/blue DMT stone, and I think Ankerson said he used Moldmaster stones, which are even cheaper. There's no need to buy a WE just to reprofile these steels :)
 
kreole said:
S110v went down pretty easy to my red/blue DMT stone, and I think Ankerson said he used Moldmaster stones, which are even cheaper. There's no need to buy a WE just to reprofile these steels :)
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Yeah I don't use diamonds as I find Silicon Carbide works great for me and the steel really doesn't matter from what I have seen so far.

That using the MM stones on the Edge Pro and or the Norton Bench Stones.
 
ToxicBot11 said:
So you got the WE Field & Sport. Which one gives you the most bang for the buck? Is the WE100 the one to get or is the WE100PR1 worth the additional $115? At $699 the WE100PR2 is definitely out..

With steels like S110V & K390 I'm thinking a WE might be the only way to reprofile a knife that uses those steels.
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Depends on the types of results you are looking for. The standard WE only includes grits up to 600, so a toothy edge is what you'll get. If you want a mirror edge, you'll need at least the 800/1000 diamond plates, a set of the ceramics, and some strops (I recommend 5 and 3.5 micron on the leather strops and 1 and 0.5 micron on the balsa wood strops). I believe the pro pack 1 includes the 800/1000 plates and one set of strops with 5 and 3.5 micron diamond pastes.
 
mkjellgren said:
Depends on the types of results you are looking for. The standard WE only includes grits up to 600, so a toothy edge is what you'll get. If you want a mirror edge, you'll need at least the 800/1000 diamond plates, a set of the ceramics, and some strops (I recommend 5 and 3.5 micron on the leather strops and 1 and 0.5 micron on the balsa wood strops). I believe the pro pack 1 includes the 800/1000 plates and one set of strops with 5 and 3.5 micron diamond pastes.
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The Pro Pack (IMO) is the one to get. Has everything you need and then some. Heim joint pivots. I really don't use the strops but they came with my kit. I don't have any problem getting a mirror edge with the other grits that come with the kit.

I have purchased a ton of sharpeners in the past. I really feel like this is the last one I will need. I like the fact that both edges are sharpened at basically the same time without repositioning anything. And I can do anything from my Wa Gyoto to a much more blunt blade--repeatable. All I need to do is keep notes and set the blade in the same position.
 
Can someone tell me where I can purchase an S110V Native 5? ...seems you are all getting them, I am not sure where to buy one
 
ToxicBot11 said:
So you got the WE Field & Sport. Which one gives you the most bang for the buck? Is the WE100 the one to get or is the WE100PR1 worth the additional $115? At $699 the WE100PR2 is definitely out..
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I bought F&S model primary for two reasons. It is US made and very compact. In addition to standard stones i bought 800/1000 set. Edges look good, but not mirror polished. I am not sure, if my EDC will benefit from polished edges. Kitchen knives may be. There are many more push cuts done on the kitchen than in my EDC use. You always can buy additional stones/strops later.
 
RevDevil said:
It's not out yet. If it was already out, there would be pictures plastered all over the place.

Check at the usual knife stores, many places do not have preorder lists others do.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1089879-Paid-Dealer-Members-List
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Just to clarify, the cf s110v version isn't out yet, the spyderco forum knife this year is also a s110v native 5, but with green g10, that's the one we've been posting pictures of, and that one is sold out.
 
djdawg said:
Are Mold Master stones meant to be used with water ?????????????? HELP
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Per manufacturer MM recommended to be used with water or oil. I used them with water and dry. Dry stones work faster, also getting loaded faster.
 
I noticed the dry way leaves a pile of dust under the edge pro .....LOL
I started out using water out of habit .......... I just wanted to ask what was recommended , thanks for the fast response.
What is your method of cleaning the stones ? if I may ask please ?
 
I've never cleaned the Mold Master stones with anything other than water. I just rinse it off and rub it with my finger. Good to go.
 
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