Spyderco Manix 2 xl (lock strength)

And the circle is complete - what do you define as "Hard Use" for a folding knife?

not saying you should use a folder for those things but the other knives didn't break, so if you want a hard use folder why would you choose the one that the lock failed? and the tip broke.
i just don't think that it is justifiable to call it a hard use knife
 
Sal said they made changes, never gave specifics. Might have been something as simple as a better grade thread locker on the pivot screws. Give the amount of unwarranted negative press that BS test caused, he had to "do something", even if nothing really needed to be done.

From what I remember, they did 2 things. The thread locker was improved and the ball bearing now sits a tiny bit further into the lock. So they addressed pivot loosening and increased resistance to over-strikes.
 
My biggest problem with threads like these is that folks seem to come out of the woodwork with "I heard".

I like to just look at the facts and not believe every 2nd and 3rd hand version of might-have-happened or what someone might-have-said.

I have no problem with Ankerson's test being what it was - a test that showed if various knives would survive the things he put it up against. The Manix II he had did not survive. He has other knives that have survived. That test is acceptable (to me) as factual and quite frankly, I believe that my Manix will not survive if I subject it to seriously hard over-strikes or Spine Whacks with a loose pivot (regardless of how the pivot got that way). I would not expect any folding knife to survive these situations which honestly do not constitute "hard use" to me - they are abuse.

Don't believe me? Make any knife (Spyderco or otherwise) fail by doing a similar test. Trust me, you can spine-whack or over-strike (or pry, or hammer, or baton) hard enough on even the beastly ZT0301 to make it fail (and it is honestly one of the strongest folders I can think of). Video yourself doing so and then send in the video along with your broken knife to KAI and see if they will replace it for you. Try that with a Benchmade. Try it with a Strider or Chris Reeve.

Here's the reason why I don't run out and sell my Manix II just because it failed spine-whack and overstrike tests while other folders survived it: Pretty much everyone in the AR-15 world knows about Magpul and their original PMAG tests that involved running over PMAGs with a car at various speeds to show how tough they are. They survived every time. Then came the Shotgun News test (and a few others that replicated the same results) of dropping the magazine only 8.5ft butt-first onto concrete. Magpul's PMAG split at the spine as did many others. The drop-test is much more realistic of something you would do with an AR magazine than running over one with a car.

The same could be said of Noss' test with the infamous 5lb steel mallet against the spine of two different Chris Reeve fixed-blade knives (breaking both). Several cheaper knives survived that test - does that mean that those cheaper knives are somehow better?

So don't believe the hype. Abuse can show how tough a knife is under very specific abusive situations, but they don't always show how durable that particular knife is. There are several things that test a knife's durability better than spine-whacks and over-strikes. Many of which might cause failure in some of the knives that passed the over-strike and spine-whack tests.

I'm more interested in edge-retention tests and "hard use" tests that involve using the knife in the way it was designed to be used (i.e. cutting things) than I am in tests that show using it as a hammer, hatchet, machete, or car-hood-stabber.

This past few weeks, folks have reported a few failures with the Manix-II. No sooner than they did, come the posts of "I've seen videos of these things failing" and "I heard that one broke from being dropped last year".

I can find almost no documented evidence of Manix-II's failing other than Ankerson's test (one video) before this last two-week period. If someone knows the original person who had a broken cage-lock, feel free to post a link (or if you witnessed it - speak up), but the "I thought I remembered" and "I heard" posts don't do anything to get to the bottom of the myths.

Of the two recent reported failures on this sub-forum, the first involved a ball-bearing falling out. Based on my limited knowledge of how the caged ball bearing works (and going from memory from the last time I took mine apart) and the explanation from the user who posted it, this sounds far-fetched to me. Sorry if I'm wrong, but when a couple of us actually attempted to ask questions and clarify, he/she smarted off and didn't seem interested in talking about it any further. I'd love to hear from Sal or Spyderco on what the outcome of this one was because as I understand it, you can break the cage completely out of the knife and the ball bearing won't come out (like I said earlier, it's been a few weeks since I took mine apart, but I may get bored and try it out just to make sure I'm remembering this correctly).

As to the one that broke the left-side of the cage, that actually sounds plausible, but I'd love to know what the knife was subjected to that caused the cage to break. If a perfectly-landed fall on one the side could break the cage, then it's probably something that needs to be looked at but thank goodness Spyderco is all about constant quality improvement and will take care of that.

BTW, does anyone have a link to what Sal said about what was being done to improve the Manix-II as a result of Ankerson's test? This is also something I can't find (but several searches lead to someone saying that Sal said this, so I assume he or Spyderco said something about it).
 
I dont plan on beating a tree to death with my folding knife. Anyway I do believe that I saw the video in question and since the original upload the liner lock has been fixed/tweaked. Thats what I hear anyway. Like I said if I wanna kill a tree ill use an axe lol.
 
The XL Manix seems to be fitted very well, with it's blade stop being a back spacer of solid steel, that doesn't move. (unlike a lock-back) This also is over the lock ball. Everything is encased in steel, seems like a strong system to me. The spring on the plunger is very positive and there's no blade play in any direction. I think for all types of cutting, it will support the blade very well!
 
Spine whack tests only prove one thing... It proves you're using the wrong tool for the job. Seriously.. Knives are for cutting, not hammering.

What's ironic is some of those people who say they won't buy a certain knife because it failed a spine whack test are the types that baby their knives and hardly ever use them for fear that they may get a scratched or a blemished.

As for the Manix 2, I love it and have a Manix 2 XL on order. I think the locking mechanism is more than adequate for everyday use. I certainly won't be chopping down a tree with mine (I have an axe for that), but I have full confidence in it's capabilities as an all around EDC/work knife. For those types who obsess and worry about lock failure on folders, try a full tang fixed blade instead, or simply use the folder as it was intended: as a cutting tool, not a crowbar or hammer.
 
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I did a bathroom remodel last year right down to the framing.Normally I'd use a sheet rock knife but on that day it was nowhere to be found.I did the entire job with this knife.The lock never failed because it doesn't have one.Lol, imho when a locking knife fails it's more likely the fault of the user and not the knife.

 
BTW, does anyone have a link to what Sal said about what was being done to improve the Manix-II as a result of Ankerson's test

Sal told me at the 2011 SHOT that improvements had been made after the test, even though the "test" wasn't a very smart way to use a folding knife.

John
 
It's like saying don't get a Glock 24 because it doesn't do a good job of hammering nails.
 
Look at the big chunk of steel, that the blade stops on opened. The lock ball is under this also. I can't help but think the Big Manix is a pretty darn stout blade.

14e9uue.jpg
 
Look at the big chunk of steel, that the blade stops on opened. The lock ball is under this also. I can't help but think the Big Manix is a pretty darn stout blade.

14e9uue.jpg
Nice photo!:D If that lock system isn't enough to make the user feel confident they should probably opt for a fixed blade.;)
 
Also, isn't the Cold Steel Pocket Bushman held together by stamped metal? To me that seems like total mechanical failure isn't necessarily that far out of the question if you do things like pry, spine-whack, or hammer with it.

Not talking smack, and I don't own one, but I can't see stamped construction as being that structurally solid - especially when talking about abusing your knife.

My 2¢... I have a couple of the CS Pocket Bushman knives. Yes the handle seems to be made of stamped metal. But, the metal is pretty thick stainless steel and it is folded over to create the handle. Think of a long, tall, narrow "U" shaped channel. The pivot and lock are strong. The one piece folded handle I believe is exceptionally strong.
 
I think if this lock has, or had a problem staying locked when beaten on, it may have been because the spring moved and allowed the ball too, also. After all it's surrounded by a lot of steel, the bottom of the handle front comes to a point. Hard over-strikes right on this no doubt sets up some hard vibirations. If you keep beating the knife over and over, that may be what happens, or at least happened in the past. (the spring seems pretty strong now)

I think the XL Manix is more than strong enough when treated as a cutting tool and not beaten, since I've never once beat the handle of any of my knives fixed or folder, against what I was cutting over and over, I'm good!
 
not saying you should use a folder for those things but the other knives didn't break, so if you want a hard use folder why would you choose the one that the lock failed? and the tip broke.
i just don't think that it is justifiable to call it a hard use knife

Fannin, The XL is a much different knife. Bigger and tougher. Have you actually held one or used it yet? By the way, rather than saying the lock failed in the first video it would be better to describe it as the frame was destroyed which caused the lock to fail. Do you know Jim personally? Do you know what forces he used on that knife as opposed to the others? Are there numbers? Is there anything you can really definitively say other than you watched a video on you tube? You seem to be lacking facts and perspective to back up your proclamation that
"i just don't think that it is justifiable to call it a hard use knife "

perhaps you might share more of your thoughts on why and how you come to your conclusion so I can see if I agree with you. :) As of now you have 9 whole posts so that shouldn't be too difficult for you to spread some of your wisdom. BTW, you do get that the video is a different knife from the newer, larger XL model being asked about.

No doubt you have designed some hard use knives you can compare these with so we can see what real hard use knives are, aside from fixed blades naturally. Please include numbers in PSI, not metric so we here in the colonies don't fall too far behind. :)

Joe
 
Hi Jill,

Good to see you here. Thanx for the support and the pics.

On the Manix models. They did get a number of changes and we still make changes regularly as we find better ways. It's a fairly new concpet and is constantly subject to refinement.

In general, we design and build knives in accordance with our particular philosophy. We focus on certain areas (cuttting performance, ergonomics, quality, safety, value, variety, steels, etc). Each knife company creates designs to serve their customers. Affordability, novelty, unbreakable, cool, springs, etc. Customers should, and do seek out the companies that provide features they want in a knife.

sal
 
I just stumbled on this thread while Googling about the Spyderco ball bearing lock, and noticed the discussion here about a Manix 2 failure test two years ago.

Here is a fairly recent May 2012 video showing a Manix 2 caged ball bearing lock failing after a very modest tap of the spine against a chair. The reviewer states this first happened when he simply stabbed into a plastic tarp. He claims the lock failed during the stab because of the downward pressure that builds up along the top of the sloped blade.

[video=youtube;a8SM9RsNu4s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8SM9RsNu4s[/video]
 
Good video, seems like there may be a few lemons out there. I imagine thats the case with all knives.
 
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