Spyderco Neck Knife?

Sal, 33.99 grams currently. Still a little heavy.

ArchAngel, Sam should have a ringed version in a few days.

John
 
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Hi guys!

Sorry I've been out of the loop here.

Here is a size comparison pic:

021112009.jpg
 
If that were a Wharnecliffe, I'd be getting funds together and talking to your friend about a custom order. I'm very serious about that.
 
Well, if there was enough demand, I'm sure we could come up with a wharnie. For a production knife, though, I have the feeling that something with belly will be a better dedicated slasher.

Sam is halfway through the ringed version. Maybe it'll grow on me. :(
 
Hey John,

How thick is the stock that Sam is using?

We're on-the-road right now, but I have a plastic model of a refinement of the latest Swick.

Looking forward to what Sam comes up with.

sal
 
Hi Sal!

That was out of a piece of 1/8" 1095. I can double-check the actual thickness it finished to when I get home if that would be helpful. I'm sure it came down a few thou in the finishing.
 
Spectre said:
Sal, 33.99 grams currently. Still a little heavy.

ArchAngel, Sam should have a ringed version in a few days.

John
Click to expand...

Had you considered a cutout on the blade to bring the weight down? Something like the Boker Miltner Adams Hunter or some of the cheese knives?
 
Sam and I aren't tied to any certain skeletonization scheme: if Spyderco can reduce the handle metal while leaving enough grippable surface, great. :) The blade, on the other hand, might not be the best place to reduce metal, other than perhaps a mild reprofiling of the "nose". :D

Sal, I appreciate you taking the time to drop in, despite your busy schedule.

John
 
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Hi John, Sam,

Thanx much for the interest and involvement.

I agree with John on leaving the blade cut-out free. Cut-outs limit the function of the blade.

Hey Sam,

We're leaning to a thicker blade. Gail and I were comparing Swicks and the 4mm blade was more comfortable in the hand and it seems more substantial than the 3mm . I think that additional cut-outs in the handle could compensate for the weight gain of the thicker handle.

sal
 
Sam1911 said:
Hi guys!

Sorry I've been out of the loop here.

Here is a size comparison pic:

021112009.jpg
Click to expand...
If I may offer one bit of constructive criticism to that design, I would change the angle of the blade to bring it more in line with the handle, or even bring it forward. It seems like with the way it is now, you'd have to shift your arm or kink your wrist to get some power in your cuts. If the edge were more in line with the handle or even pushed forward, you'd have a more neutral grip without having to shift the arm or bend at the wrist. Otherwise it looks great. I'm a fan of smaller fixed blades, provide the grip-ability isn't compromised.
 
I love the look of this design guys, putting in my 2 cents though...Gimme that necker you're designing with a leaf-shaped blade like the dragonfly and I'll buy.
 
Sal, we were pretty sure you could find ways to reduce weight with your precision machinery that Sam just can't duplicate in his basement. :) Also, I'm not sure of the relative weight of H1 and 1095.

harkamus, thanks for the input. The handle is deliberately canted away from the blade to give the most potential protection against slipping onto the blade- when used vigorously and covered in fluid- while not adding additional mass. You will also notice that the tip of the handle is pretty much exactly in line with the tip of the blade. This isn't mean to be a great stabber, but if someone is using a knife to defend themselves, they will probably eventually attempt one or more stabs, if the attacker(s) are still attacking. I want them to be as safe as possible if this happens.

It's a 2" blade: there's only so much power that can be generated. This will hopefully be a slashing machine easily used by someone with little or no training. I don't entirely agree with the idea about handle angle, in any case. I think many designs force a cant that is less versatile in general.

I haven't had a chance to play with this yet, unfortunately. I am especially interested in getting feedback from Sam's wife, and Sam is also making a G10 version to send to my sergeant friend here in Afghanistan.

Ramiel, I'm sure Sam could do that- eventually, he's got an order backlog- but it wouldn't have the "Spyderhole" unless Sal gives his consent.

John
 
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Spectre said:
harkamus, thanks for the input. The handle is deliberately canted away from the blade to give the most potential protection against slipping onto the blade- when used vigorously and covered in fluid
Click to expand...
I see your reasoning behind it. At least in my experience though, an index finger groove is enough to provide that kind of grip to prevent slippage. I suppose it could be different because everyone's hands are different.

Regarding edge angles relative to the handle, I prefer either neutral or slightly forwarded cant. Nothing too extreme. If you notice the Spyderco folders, almost all of them have a slight forward cant. Maybe make another model so the guy in the sandbox can get some feel for in the field and get feedback for both models.

Anyway, just trying to offer my suggestions and points of view. Not really trying to dissuade you. This is an interesting project, one I will surely keep my eye on.
 
In general, I agree with you that the index choil *usually* provides enough protection. When I described to Sam the type angles I was looking for, I was thinking of a few factors that are different than on most types of knives, and in most uses:

minimal handle thickness
bare metal
wet
gravest extreme
potentially unskilled user

The "largest percentage" answer might still be the enclosed index finger ring. Sam should have that model done in the next day or two. Maybe he'll become a believer after trying it, and more importantly perhaps, maybe his small-handed wife who is not a knife nut will find it secure and easy to use. We'll have to wait and see. It's also possible Sal's SWICK evolution will work even better. He's been in charge of a company that makes great knives for a long time.

I know what you're talking about, with the angle on most Spyderco folders, and even my otherwise perfect Rock Salt. It's my sole major disagreement with my favorite knife company. ;)

Thanks for your thoughts,

John
 
Not much love in Sam's house for the ringed model. The handle angle, which works fine for ARK-1, is interfered with by the ring on ARK-2. Moving the handle the direction harkamus requested is pretty much required on model 2. I do have pictures, but no access to a hosting service currently.

John
 
Hi John,

We appreicate your thoughts and disagreement is certainly acceptable given the radical forms of our designs. That's why we do collaborations, variety and differences in opinon about designs.

sal
 
Well, Sal, it's always possible we'll like the ringed ARK better once the handle angle changes. I sent you an email with pics, btw.

In any case, I greatly appreciate your interest in the subject, and your concern for our service folks. Sam and I may not be able to design a better mousetrap, but if one is made, that's still a win. :)

John
 
Spectre said:
Not much love in Sam's house for the ringed model. The handle angle, which works fine for ARK-1, is interfered with by the ring on ARK-2. Moving the handle the direction harkamus requested is pretty much required on model 2. I do have pictures, but no access to a hosting service currently.

John
Click to expand...
tinypic.com is a free hosting service, one that I use quite a bit.
 
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