Spyderco PM2 in s110v

Got in an order for one, lucky me :)
It will be my first S110V blade.

I have 3 folders in S90V and have the same difficulty mentioned above getting it extremely sharp, it's really time consuming and takes some practice (to me). But I'm prepared to cope with that as the edge holding is truly outstanding.
 
No one but Sal has one in their hands yet, so it's hard to really say much about it specifically. :p

S110V is much more wear resistant and slightly harder than S30V as Spyderco heat-treats it, harder to sharpen (although reports on that vary, I suspect has much to do with equipment and skill), and less likely to chip at the edge. We're talking micro-chipping here, which is actually a point in S30V's favor in my opinion, as the tiny chips in the edge make it behave like an extremely fine-tooth saw.

What do you use your knife for?
I've not found this to be the case.
 
Just picked mine up! Any new PM2 is a "must have" IMO and the S110V makes a nice addition to the collection.

4hcMtxEh.jpg
[/url][/IMG]
V0nqLjnh.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

The color is only slightly translucent and it is definitely a very royal blue, almost purple.
 
AHAH! knew it, typically professional pictures are done using extremely bright light to capture the detail, it probably be nearly too bright to look at in real life. That's probably why it looked so translucent.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the great pictures. I'm glad it's dark and still semi translucent. That's a nice feature, IMO
 
I'm excited to test and use this production (albeit still rare for now) blade. Handle is more purple than blue, but looks great anyway.

I can't tell, but maybe the grind is just a hair thinner?


image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Oh, I didn't realize the scales were gonna be translucent. That's kind of a bummer, IMO.
 
Where have people purchased the knife? All the places I have looked have pre-orders only

A few trickled in to several dealers. I heard one place was getting 5 in and I haven't heard a number higher than that. Hopefully more will show up quickly.
 
Just picked mine up! Any new PM2 is a "must have" IMO and the S110V makes a nice addition to the collection.

4hcMtxEh.jpg
[/url][/IMG]
V0nqLjnh.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

The color is only slightly translucent and it is definitely a very royal blue, almost purple.

That's what I'm talkin' about! What a great looking knife!
 
They are nice! Here it is with a lot of light behind it.

8DE7965C-DE9F-4BD7-964C-3E820E47B762_zpsndmbypxj.jpg


And one outside on a cloudy morning.

3CB1767B-CCD6-4492-9AAF-B8858E3AD0A1_zps3wqznh3t.jpg
 
Last edited:
I am little more than a novice with knife sharpening skills on my Spyderco Sharpmaker ,but with patience and trying to pay attention to details I have managed to put pretty good edges on all my knives. The steels range from 440 up. The only knife that has been beyond my ability to sharpen right is my Manix 2 with s110v. This knife came to me scary sharp from Spyderco but I had to monkey around with it to see if I could get it even sharper. Big mistake. I have worked many hours trying to restore the blade on my poor Manix 2 but it will probably never be the same. My point is that some steels defy the skills of some people, so if you opt for s110v or higher, be prepared to send it back to maker for sharpening.
 
I think that that statement couldn't be farther from the truth. I have sharpened my s110v M2 on my EP with 0 issues..and it certainly didn't take hours.:thumbup:
 
It's always nice to have variety but this one is just not for me. As long as they leave the standard model PM2/other golden spydies alone and don't replace them with this color, I'm fine.
 
I am little more than a novice with knife sharpening skills on my Spyderco Sharpmaker ,but with patience and trying to pay attention to details I have managed to put pretty good edges on all my knives. The steels range from 440 up. The only knife that has been beyond my ability to sharpen right is my Manix 2 with s110v. This knife came to me scary sharp from Spyderco but I had to monkey around with it to see if I could get it even sharper. Big mistake. I have worked many hours trying to restore the blade on my poor Manix 2 but it will probably never be the same. My point is that some steels defy the skills of some people, so if you opt for s110v or higher, be prepared to send it back to maker for sharpening.

The issue with very high carbide steels is the abrasion resistance. While they aren't necessarily actually harder to sharpen, the fact that it can take more time to abrade the steel (depending on your sharpening stones) can make it more unforgiving if you are on a wrong angle, or aren't hitting the apex. The issue with the Spyderco stones to do heavy sharpening is they will clog with steel rather quickly and reduce the cutting ability quite a bit. I would suggest a diamond stone or a CBN stone of sorts for very high carbide steels or in general really to set the bevel and such, and use the sharp maker for touch ups. Sorry if I'm preaching to the choir, simply trying to help.
 
I am little more than a novice with knife sharpening skills on my Spyderco Sharpmaker ,but with patience and trying to pay attention to details I have managed to put pretty good edges on all my knives. The steels range from 440 up. The only knife that has been beyond my ability to sharpen right is my Manix 2 with s110v. This knife came to me scary sharp from Spyderco but I had to monkey around with it to see if I could get it even sharper. Big mistake. I have worked many hours trying to restore the blade on my poor Manix 2 but it will probably never be the same. My point is that some steels defy the skills of some people, so if you opt for s110v or higher, be prepared to send it back to maker for sharpening.
I have no problem keeping my Manix2 S110V extremely sharp with the SM's standard rods.

But they will not restore a damaged edge. For that you'll need the SM's Diamond or CBN rods.
 
Back
Top