5-by-5
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Spyderco Salt 2 perfect choice for me??
- Thread starter FrannaM
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5-by-5
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Yeah, I saw that but the time line is still a bit fuzzy, thought you might have some different info. Being that they just came out with the Pacific Salt 2, I'm thinking one will need to be real patient to wait for one in LC. Don't get me wrong, I'm in for one.
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I'll be hopeful too, although I'm more than happy with the Siren currently filling the roll a Pacific Salt in LC would. I just don't see how their Seki supplier could be doing both an H1 and LC variant back to back. There's lots I don't know though, so hopefully.Sal said its in the queue. I swear I saw him mention late this year. That could have been in Spydie forum. IDK
Here's for hoping it's in Reveal 6
DA170
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I've gifted my son 6 Spyderco knives over the last 3 years. Pacific Salt SE , Digicamo DLC PM2, Tenacious, Waterway, Bow River , And Native 5 Salt PE. The one he consistently uses (From the Boat to Kitchen )on a daily basis is the Pacific Salt . SE H1 is legit, And the ability to use the knife in any environment worry free is priceless.
Decided on the S2 purely because it’s a budget folder and an H1 so wouldn’t think twice using and abusing (with in common sense limitations) on a daily basis. Now I’m torn between PE & SE. I don’t own a folder in SE. how do you guys find the H1 SE for edc purposes seeing that the edge retention is so much better??
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I don't own a SE so no help here. As I said in the previous post I'd get the PE, it's just not as bad as som guys say. It's actually pretty good. But you your choice of course.
In my eyes the SE is just not that versatile beeing serrated..
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Okay, are you talking about the Salt 2: https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP...lding-knife-h1-plain-blade-yellow-frn-handles
Or the new Pacific Salt 2: https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP...knife-h1-satin-plain-blade-yellow-frn-handles
If it is the smaller Delica sized Salt 2, I'm not sure why you wouldn't consider the Native 5 Salt in Lc200n: https://www.knifecenter.com/item/SP...e-lc200n-satin-plain-blade-yellow-frn-handles
With the Native 5 salt you get PE LC200n and similar size as the Salt 2.
As for H1 PE vs SE, if you aren't all that familiar or comfortable with using a SE blade you may want to go with the PE. If you are going to be using it in the Kitchen a lot (on vacation, like you said, as a one knife solution) I would go with the PE. I personally opt for the SE edge but it would drive me nuts to use it for food prep all the time. The tip of the SE is useful though, like you said. The PE H1 should operate like other budget steel in terms of edge retention, IE to keep that razor edge you will need to touch up a lot. The SE won't give you the clean cuts you are use to with a PE but it will excel in other areas like fibrous materials. I personally love the SE H1 I've owned and have found the edge retention to be amazing.
I have had a Pacific Salt maybe 2.5 years. It’s SE. I hated serrated knives. It changed my mind. Edge retention is amazing. Never had PE H1. I need to sharpen it properly but I’ve improvised with ok results.
Anyway, the abilities and retention are amazing. If you need perfect clean cuts do PE. Anything else do SE
Anyway, the abilities and retention are amazing. If you need perfect clean cuts do PE. Anything else do SE
Yes, S2. I chose the S2 above the native because where i’m Located the native cost a 1/3rd more than the S2. And at that price point not a budget folder in my regard.
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Okay. I understand. I do think the native 5 salt would make more sense at a lower price point like other FRN models.
You could probably go VG10 as long as the water exposure isn’t salt or excessive, it’s a very good mid level steel that won’t rust easily except under severe conditions.
If it has to be plain edge H1, the wharncliffe Salt 2 might be your best choice because of its aggressive grind and point. H1 has high toughness and won’t chip but the edge retention is on a Gerber level of poor.
BD1N on the Manix or Para 3 lightweights also is an option, especially the DLC coated ones. You can rinse both of those knives out pretty easily and they’re mostly plastic.
There is a falsity that H1 is hardest at the edge and that plain edge hardens over time; Larrin’s testing has shown this to be completely false. In reality, the edge is the softest part and the type of force needed to work harden is more in the neighborhood of what the steel rolling process exerts on it.
If it has to be plain edge H1, the wharncliffe Salt 2 might be your best choice because of its aggressive grind and point. H1 has high toughness and won’t chip but the edge retention is on a Gerber level of poor.
BD1N on the Manix or Para 3 lightweights also is an option, especially the DLC coated ones. You can rinse both of those knives out pretty easily and they’re mostly plastic.
There is a falsity that H1 is hardest at the edge and that plain edge hardens over time; Larrin’s testing has shown this to be completely false. In reality, the edge is the softest part and the type of force needed to work harden is more in the neighborhood of what the steel rolling process exerts on it.
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I'll take my own experience and what Sal has to say over Larrin, sorry. Serrated H1 is certainly a very different and special thing. I know you like to make this point every time you see serrated H1 brought up, and no doubt you'll have a witty response, but I won't be discussing the point further with you as it is not the topic of this thread.
Went totally crazy and lost all control and decided to change my purchase from Salt 2 PE - Salt 2 SE. To be honest I don't regret the last minute switch and am quite excited to see how a serrated EDC will treat me. If I end up not liking it I can always sell it. I do own a spyderco sharpmaker so sharpening serrations should be fine.
Any specific pointers when sharpening serrations??
Any specific pointers when sharpening serrations??
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There is lots of info out there. Check out the Maintenance, tinkering, and embellishment sub forum (https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/maintenance-tinkering-embellishment.794/) and what spyderco says. With H1 I would say you shouldn't have to sharpen for quite a while, so wait until you really have to. I know for me at least, I tend to sharpen sooner rather than later. This isn't needed with H1.
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