I wonder if a Boye dent wouldn’t solve that.Surfingringo If you guys are working on a CQI, please also look into the issue of lock coming loose when gripping the handle with moderate force.
Might be more prevalent with certain hand sizes, i wear M size glove, i can make the lock disengage at least 1/2 way when i grip it hammer grip, to the point the blade is ratting up and down.
Edit to note: Making the spring tension harder doesn't help this issue, I've tried. The lockbar fulcrum(stop pin) is too far forward and the hand has too much leverage at the lock release. I suspect the position of the fulcrum needs to be changed.
Hope it's as simple as that. Didn't wanna dremel the lockbar to find out, but hopefully the Golden factory will be able to test it out.I wonder if a Boye dent wouldn’t solve that.
I seem to remember someone like Shabaz needing to kind of pry it apart.I tried to get my Siren apart for pics since mine does not seem to exhibit this issue and I am embarrassed to say that it would not come apart. I had all the screws out and it should have come apart easily at that point, but it was like all the screws were still in place. Open, closed, pressing down on the lockbar, not pressing down on the lockbar…I tried everything I could think short of prying the scales apart. I'm pretty sure I know how a lockback works and there should not have been an issue. Not sure what to think at this point.
I thought this is what was happening with mine over the spring and summer. Just thought it was the way I was gripping the knife. And while I can still hit the lock bar and make it move a little based on my grip, without a doubt the issue I experienced in use was the pressure on the blade disengaging the lock.Surfingringo If you guys are working on a CQI, please also look into the issue of lock coming loose when gripping the handle with moderate force.
Might be more prevalent with certain hand sizes, i wear M size glove, i can make the lock disengage at least 1/2 way when i grip it hammer grip, to the point the blade is ratting up and down.
Edit to note: Making the spring tension harder doesn't help this issue, I've tried. The lockbar fulcrum(stop pin) is too far forward and the hand has too much leverage at the lock release. I suspect the position of the fulcrum needs to be changed.
I'd love to see one on the Siren! Gotta get this lock thing worked out first though...I wonder if a Boye dent wouldn’t solve that.
After messing with it a bit more, I agree that it is not a safety issue in the sense that when the cutting pressure is released on the blade, the lock re-engages. That said, it is still hard to fully trust a lock that does something like this. The lock seems solid in all other ways, I even gave it a couple of good spine whacks. At this point though, I wouldn't trust the Siren as a back up emergency SD blade because I wouldn't trust it for hard stabbing. I'm not willing to test a lock that will disengage like this in a stabbing test with my hand. This is really sad as it limits the do everything robust EDC roll that is the Siren's claim to fame. If a knife can't stab it might as well be a slip joint, which is fine, just not what it is advertised.It doesn't appear to be a safety issue. But it is something we're working on. My guess is the angle might be off by a degree or 2.
sal
Did everyone reporting this issue do that? I know i didn't.Looks like someone tweaked the lock spring to make it easier to open.
I'm not saying OP did.
I'd say 7/10 to get the lock to completely pop open. Much less to get it to move around.I'd love to know what percentage of Sirens have this issue. Obviously, lots of folks here and on the Spyderco forum are reporting it, but I wonder how many Sirens don't have the issue. It reminds me of the original Maxamet PM2s where some of the knives had a curve towards the tip while others did not.
craytab , how much downward pressure—say on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being max force--are you putting on the Siren in the above pics to get it to do that?
Yes, needs to be pried apart as Craytab stated.I tried to get my Siren apart for pics since mine does not seem to exhibit this issue and I am embarrassed to say that it would not come apart. I had all the screws out and it should have come apart easily at that point, but it was like all the screws were still in place. Open, closed, pressing down on the lockbar, not pressing down on the lockbar…I tried everything I could think short of prying the scales apart. I'm pretty sure I know how a lockback works and there should not have been an issue. Not sure what to think at this point.
Me too. Watching this thread and the one on the Spyderco company forum patiently. Hopefully more of a response will come soon. At least let us know where things are at.I’m just curious how this will be handled. While it may not be a safety issue, I still see it as an design flaw.
Just to make sure I’m understanding you correctly, and I apologize if I’m not, but when you say “widespread”, do you mean early to current production?There is a thread over on the Spyderco company forum where people are reporting this issue as well. Looks widespread. Surfingringo
Excellent. Thank you for responding!We're still studying the issues. I'm sure than anyone that wants to send their knife in is welcome to, but we do not yet have the problem sorted. We have a good reputation of taking care of our customers and this will be no exception.
sal
No, sorry I wasn't more clear. I meant in more of a "not just a lemon or two" sort of sense. These have been out about a year so I am not sure there is really an early vs current production run.Just to make sure I’m understanding you correctly, and I apologize if I’m not, but when you say “widespread”, do you mean early to current production?
No, sorry I wasn't more clear. I meant in more of a "not just a lemon or two" sort of sense. These have been out about a year so I am not sure there is really an early vs current production run.