Spyderco Triangle Diamond vs. DMT Grit Sizes?

H

HoosierQ

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Feb 9, 2010
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I freehand with a full set of DMT diamond plates. I use these to reprofile the often encountered overly-obtuse factory edge. I use a SharpMaker then to microbevel and touch up thereafter.

For those "not quite a full reprofile job" cases, I want to use the triangle diamond rods for the SharpMaker. Does anyone know, either specifically or approximately, to what DMT grit do those equate? Are they Extra-Course, Course, or other?

Thanks.

QB
 
The spyderco diamond rods are not overly aggressive. Probably similar to a fine dmt. They do remove metal much faster than the ceramics though.
 
Sal doesn't adhere to any grit system 'cept his own. Just like Ben Dale. Because they can afford to come up with their own systems, I guess. I mean, Spyderco's are way out there. At least everyone else has some form of measurement, like micron designations.

Spyderco's are just fine, ultra fine, etc. The "grit" is actually simply the texture of the ceramic. That's why you don't lap them with DMTs, ever. Unless you want to go through one DMT and 8 solid hrs of rubbing them together like someone here tried.

DMT's grits; http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=438

If you search Spyderco's forum, or probably google it, you may find vague references to grit approximations. From what I remember, all their stones are made out of 25 micron grit ceramic fused together, basically into a simple solid, and then ground by different grit surfacers.

ps- I didn't see grit designations for their diamond sticks, but that would certainly be a measurable entity.
 
That is what Sal wrote:

Sal Glesser - 2007/12/30
... All of the ceramics use the same micron size (15-25). the different grits are created by different carriers, different firing techniques and diamond surface grinding.
Sal Glesser - 2007/12/31
... Most abrasives are measured by the grit size used in the matrix. Our ceramic doesn 't work that way. Grit size is constant.

We've tried to compare scratch patterns as Cliff mentioned and this is probably the closest, but nothing that we can say "This is blah blah". Then the Japanese water stones jump into the equation and suddenly there is whole new set of numbers.

So where we end up is:

Our diamonds are a 400 mesh (measureable). (600 on the Duckfoot)


(http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?45591-Sharpmaker-Grit-Question)


Stitchawl
 
First of all I have nothing but the utmost respect for the Spyderco Sharpmaker tool. But the one complaint I've had for years is that the Spyderco Sharpmaker doesn't have even one very aggressive stone for rapid stock removal. OK I'm well aware of their diamond stones for the 204 unit and I have 2 sets of them and use them regularly. But the stones for the Sharpmaker are truly only geared to sharpen a blade that is already close to being a finished product.

They wouldn't even have to use a big grit diamond stone either. They could use a coarse or extra coarse aluminum oxide stone for the 204 Sharpmaker system for really dinged up blades or blades that have gotten really dulled up. Even with Spyderco's great 302 Benchstones they most aggressive they have is the medium/gray stone. Their stuff is of superb quality but again they don't have anything that would really remove stock rapidly.

As smart as they are in the field of sharpening it just baffles me as to why they haven't covered this one big hurdle.
 
Well this is interesting news. I may just save myself $50 and go ahead and build myself the 30 and 40 degree jig for my large DMT (8" Duosharp) stones. Prop them up 15 or 20 degrees off of vertical and do it that way.
 
HoosierQ, I think many Sharpmaker users are doing exactly what you describe with their Sharpmakers. I don't think there's anything wrong with that, if they are getting the results they're after.

Stitchall, I'm pretty sure what you posted is the thread I was referring to. The point being that Spyderco uses the texture of the surface of their stones to regulate the performance of the tool, more than any other factor.

As such, lapping their stones would have a large affect on the surface texture, and therefore, it should probably have considerable effect on their performance.

I realize Spyderco's sharpeners are well received, and it doesn't matter whether I use them. I think they are popular because they are billed as "do all" systems, and the guys using them are more or less hobbyist sharpeners, sharpening their Spydercos.

I would say by and large, guys using Sharpmakers like the idea of having built in angles, like the price point, and don't know or care much about other sharpening systems.

I wouldn't try to change their minds, but it seems helpful that they fully understand proper usage.
 
HoosierQ said:
Well this is interesting news. I may just save myself $50 and go ahead and build myself the 30 and 40 degree jig for my large DMT (8" Duosharp) stones. Prop them up 15 or 20 degrees off of vertical and do it that way.
Click to expand...

Unless re-profiling is something you need to do often, (and I don't,) try just wrapping some 80 grit or 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper around the stones and clamping them with a bulldog paper clamp. Very fast metal removal, and quick and easy set-up. I have the diamond rods, and use them as the next step up from the sandpaper, removing the larger scratch patterns.


Stitchawl
 
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