SRK Compact Tip Strength

S

sean1999

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Sep 28, 2007
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Was wondering if anyone has had a chance to test the new SRK Compact, particularly the tip strength. Have seen several vids mentioning the tip breakage on the full size SRK in sk-5 steel.
 
IMG-20200208-113228555.jpg

How strong does that look to you?
It's nice and pointy. I have no doubt it will break if I try to break it. I'm not going to break it for no reason, though. The only scenario I can see myself prying is maybe to dig grubs out of wood to eat. When that need arises, I guess we'll see how strong the tip is.

If you like the knife, but need a stronger tip, take 30 minutes with a file and stone and rework the tip into something stronger.
 
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dogstar said:
IMG-20200208-113228555.jpg

How strong does that look to you?
It's nice and pointy. I have no doubt it will break if I try to break it. I'm not going to break it for no reason, though. The only scenario I can see myself prying is maybe to dig grubs out of wood to eat. When that need arises, I guess we'll see how strong the tip is.

If you like the knife, but need a stronger tip, take 30 minutes with a file and stone and rework the tip into something stronger.
Click to expand...


I was asking because some reviewers mentioned that the tip on the full-size SRK in sk-5 seems to have an unusually thin tip that was prone to snap off with even regular use. I don't plan on abusing any of my knives (i.e. Using as pry bar). Was just curious about the compact version. Plan on getting one, perfect size IMO. Thanks
 
I didn't own an SK-5 model when they were initially introduced, so I cant say if there have been any design changes since then to help tip strength. I can say that I bought one a month or so ago and the tip/swedge configuration is different than the AUS-8 model I used to own and is different from my San Mai SRK that I just received this afternoon. The swedge is not sharp at all and has been heavily flattened about 1/16" up to 3/32" at the very tip. It's not a super fine tip and has held up to me stabbing it into both pine and red oak repeatedly. I also split smaller pieces (thumb width or a little thicker) of both kinds of wood by laying them on their side and driving the tip of the knife into the center and twisting. No tip damage whatsoever.
 
Ι owned one of the first SK-5 SRKs. The tip had no strength at all. Not in "cold weather", trying to stab it into pine tree, the tip had broken.... On the contrary my other SRK, a San Mai version, was and it is unbreakable...
 
hunter55 said:
Ι owned one of the first SK-5 SRKs. The tip had no strength at all. Not in "cold weather", trying to stab it into pine tree, the tip had broken.... On the contrary my other SRK, a San Mai version, was and it is unbreakable...
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Why do you have to stab a tree?
 
SRK = Survival Rescue Knife. In many cases you need to pry or to stab into a tree. That is the reason...
 
:eek::poop:
dogstar said:
Can you be more specific? I lack the imagination to think of many cases.
Click to expand...

Lost in the wilderness . Hungry , need to forage for grubs , earthworms , etc . :(

Use handy survival knife to dig into the ground and rotting wood etc .

Yummy ! :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
DocJD said:
:eek::poop:


Lost in the wilderness . Hungry , need to forage for grubs , earthworms , etc . :(

Use handy survival knife to dig into the ground and rotting wood etc .

Yummy ! :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Thanks! That is the one case I mentioned in post #2. Any others?
 
dogstar said:
Thanks! That is the one case I mentioned in post #2. Any others?
Click to expand...
Make a spear using the knife as the tip . The knife will then be subjected to increased prying forces due to leverage .

Use knife to force doors or windows in some emergency .

Using knife tip to drill holes or chisel notches etc .

Probably lots of other stuff I forgot , just like your post #2 . :oops::confused:
 
DocJD said:
Make a spear using the knife as the tip . The knife will then be subjected to increased prying forces due to leverage .

Use knife to force doors or windows in some emergency .

Using knife tip to drill holes or chisel notches etc .

Probably lots of other stuff I forgot , just like your post #2 . :oops::confused:
Click to expand...
That's a good list, but my question was "why do you need to stab a tree?" If you make a survival spear, and accidentally bury your knife into a tree, OK. That is a debatable strategy at best, though.
 
dogstar said:
Can you be more specific? I lack the imagination to think of many cases.
Click to expand...
Digging is a better expression than stabbing...
Digging a fallen tree trunk to find softwood, rotten wood, dry wood - elements for fire...

As far as the Survival knife (and the consequently the necessity for a strong tip) is concerned:

(1) I found a phrase, yesterday, of Dave Canterbury (comparing his new knife to an old one): "a Bush craft Knife has to be conducive to craft type work and a Narrow thin blade is much better for that and if it is a Scandinavian V grind easy to index the bevel on a work piece. On the other hand a Survival Knife should be a Pry Bar, something that can take the place of an Ax and a Saw if needs be when carving and shaping are a non issue because things like shelter building and fire making are what will save my life not cute carvings or small notches".

(2) Additionally, I think that the video "How much can the CS SRK take? Long Time Review", from Survival Lilly, is giving clearly the requirements for a so called Survival Knife.
My SK5 (first generation) SRK hardly meets these requirements...
 
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hunter55 said:
Digging is a better expression than stabbing...
Digging a fallen tree trunk to find softwood, rotten wood, dry wood - elements for fire...

As far as the Survival knife (and the consequently the necessity for a strong tip) is concerned:

(1) I found a phrase, yesterday, of Dave Canterbury (comparing his new knife to an old one): "a Bush craft Knife has to be conducive to craft type work and a Narrow thin blade is much better for that and if it is a Scandinavian V grind easy to index the bevel on a work piece. On the other hand a Survival Knife should be a Pry Bar, something that can take the place of an Ax and a Saw if needs be when carving and shaping are a non issue because things like shelter building and fire making are what will save my life not cute carvings or small notches".

(2) Additionally, I think that the video "How much can the CS SRK take? Long Time Review", from Survival Lilly, is giving clearly the requirements for a so called Survival Knife.
My SK5 (first generation) SRK hardly meets these requirements...
Click to expand...
I've seen Lilly's video before. She does some digging and prying in there, and I would not call it abusive. Some of it could have been done with a digging stick, but I take your point about digging for punk wood or fat wood.
Thanks for taking the time to give a detailed reply.
 
dogstar said:
I've seen Lilly's video before. She does some digging and prying in there, and I would not call it abusive. Some of it could have been done with a digging stick, but I take your point about digging for punk wood or fat wood.
Thanks for taking the time to give a detailed reply.
Click to expand...
You are welcome.... Useful exchange of views for everyone!
 
I don't trust SRK's tip either and I also saw plenty of videos...

I do have Recon Tanto in SK-5 tho, and I used that knife to stab, pry, scrape... tip is as good as new.
I also like the fact that it has a sweep so it can cut very well.
Only thing that you might not like about it is the size (lenght) considering that you're looking at compact version of SRK.
Benefit of Recon Tanto's size is the fact it makes a decent chopper.

But yeah, if tip sthrenght is what you're worried about, then tanto tip is the way to go.
 
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