Stabilized wood for handle blocks vs scales?

L

Leon Husock

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Jul 17, 2019
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I hear people talk a lot about the importance of stabilizing wood for scales so that they don't warp in humidity and pull away from the tang. Is this less of a problem for handle blocks, since they're one solid piece? Obviously stuff like burl wood and spalted wood has to be stabilized no matter what, but for the woods that are structurally sound (excepting stuff like cocobolo and ironwood that just don't need to be stabilized at all) is it as important that hidden tang blocks be stabilized?
 
Leon Husock said:
I hear people talk a lot about the importance of stabilizing wood for scales so that they don't warp in humidity and pull away from the tang. Is this less of a problem for handle blocks, since they're one solid piece? Obviously stuff like burl wood and spalted wood has to be stabilized no matter what, but for the woods that are structurally sound (excepting stuff like cocobolo and ironwood that just don't need to be stabilized at all) is it as important that hidden tang blocks be stabilized?
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Yeah I think so. I use cactus juice on the wood that isn't already stabilized. But then I had a vacuum chamber and an oven to work with. I use cactus juice on everything whether it need it or not. But thats me.
Take care
TJ Smith
 
Leon Husock said:
I hear people talk a lot about the importance of stabilizing wood for scales so that they don't warp in humidity and pull away from the tang. Is this less of a problem for handle blocks, since they're one solid piece? Obviously stuff like burl wood and spalted wood has to be stabilized no matter what, but for the woods that are structurally sound (excepting stuff like cocobolo and ironwood that just don't need to be stabilized at all) is it as important that hidden tang blocks be stabilized?
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Stabilization helps both full tang & sting tang woods to prevent warping etc.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Stabilization helps both full tang & sting tang woods to prevent warping etc.
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I understand, my main question is whether that's as important when there isn't really an option for the handle to "pull away" from the tang the way it can with a full tang knife. I know in general stabilized wood is better for most purposes, but since it's expensive and I don't have a vacuum chamber, I'm just wondering whether it's as necessary for hidden tang handles.
 
If the wood is structurally sound and fairly straight grain I suspect most woods would work just fine without stabilization for hiddened tang knives. Black Walnut and the like for sure work just fine either way. It's really hard to make a blanket statement without knowing type of wood. Wood was used for hundreds of years as knife handles, some as full tang with scales and they lasted just fine. Again, these are with fairly straight grain strong woods, not the burls and curly grains you mentioned as needing stabilizing.
 
Basically, what has been said above.
Leon Husock said:
the importance of stabilizing wood for scales so that they don't warp in humidity and pull away from the tang.
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Stabilized wood can still absorb moisture and warp, just not as much. Using mechanical fasteners (corby bolts, peened pins, etc) is the only way to really minimize this risk as much as possible.

Leon Husock said:
Is this less of a problem for handle blocks, since they're one solid piece?
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Yes, it's less of a problem, but still there. There are plenty of professional makers who prefer unstabilized wood for their handles because they say it 'feels' better and that stabilized wood feels artificial. You still need to treat the handle with boiled linseed oil, tung oil, etc to limit the moisture absorption though.
 
weo said:
Using mechanical fasteners (corby bolts, peened pins, etc) is the only way to really minimize this risk as much as possible
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X2. I have one knife that is 30 years old with a walnut handle. though one corner of front is chipped ... the handle itself remains solidly attached to the tang (either corbys or large pins ... not sure which).

Another Knife i have is more than 100 years old. I believe also walnut, with 1/8" pins. the handle remains solidly attached to the tang.

Also X2 what WEO says about finish on an unstabilized wood handle. I have tried just plain butchers wax, tung oil (which is really close to lindseed oil), and also Tru Oil. So far I like the Tru Oil best for looks and feel (the tung oil has kind of a "sticky" feel to it for quite a while.
 
This question comes up a lot, and to sum it up i would say

What is good enough?

Beyond just warping/ twisting/ cracking/ bending/ splitting and all the other issues that can mess with natural woods, especially curly or burled woods. there is the finishing aspect, as stabilized woods are able to take a far finer finish. They will also keep that finish better, as natural wood with figure have a tendency to develop a raised grain and become uneven after exposure to water.

Wood is wood and its been used for cutlery handles for thousands of years without stabilizing.

Wood has also cracked for thousands of years.

The decision as too what is good enough for you is yours alone. What kind of risk are you willing to take that the wood will split or crack? how wet will the wood get?
 
If your are slicing a stabilized block in two to make two scales there is a good chance they'll warp once cut. Not right away but if left to site for a while I'll often see a slight bow in them. I reflatten before using corby bolts.
 
SHARP tools help avoid warping when cutting scales. Also, let the blade do the cutting ... don't push the block hard.

If the blade heats the wood as it cuts it will cause warp. Cut a piece and immediately put the cut side to your cheek - if it is more than barely warm the blade is getting dull. It it is hot or looks burned, the blade needs replacing (or resharpening).

Also, the right blade is important. For a bandsaw, a 3/4" to 1" wide 3 to 4 TPI vari/skip-tooth carbide tipped blade is a good choice. I like Lenox Tri-master blades.
A 14/18 TPI bi-metal blade is also good.
On a table saw a 60 to 80 tooth carbide tipped blade works well.
 
Unstabilised wood on a hidden tang can work a bit. Some makers adust theyre design and have the wood slightly wider then the bolster infront. If you round the material that is wider then the bolser it can look good imho.

Also unstabilised wood is more vulnerable.
It will dent easier. But a deep dent can be fixed close to invisable by wetsending an oil finish.

It's just what you prefer.

I have a WW1 trenchknife that spend a long time in the ground.
It is black, the walnut scales are black and smaller then before but still attached with two(or three) small pins. I think they are peened.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Some makers adust theyre design and have the wood slightly wider then the bolster infront. If you round the material that is wider then the bolser it can look good imho.
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Where the wood is slightly larger than the metal bolster, isn't that called a "museum fit"? Seems I read that somewhere, but now I'm not sure.
 
Museum or heirloom fit, I've heard it called both.

I call it lazy. ;):p

It can look good though!
 
Nothing lazy about a “proper” heirloom fit. Takes probably 5 times longer and done right is 100 times better than flush. Just my opinion
 
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