When I had a boat, there was always a "rule of thumb" for testing the quality and rust resistance of rails, cleats, and other hardware exposed to salt water. That was to carry a magnet and if the magnet didn't stick, you had good stainless. To be honest, I never tried it...I was a lake boater.
That was 20 years ago. Today, having long since divested of any and all watercraft and moved on, I am here. Magnets stick to all my stainless knives. I just tested VG-10 and S30V and whatever Victorinox uses and of course the magnet sticks. I expected it to.
So I guess I wonder either a) was that "boat stuff" all a crock, b) are boats using H1 or something (does a magnet stick to H1?) else?
Just wondering in terms of knowing more about steel. Boat guys know a lot about chines and tumblehome and deadrise and freeboard but steel? Not so much...beyond never use a steel propeller in fresh water with lots of obstacles...use aluminum...better to break a prop than the drive shaft. Use bronze in saltwater if you can. That's about it for marine metalurgy.
That was 20 years ago. Today, having long since divested of any and all watercraft and moved on, I am here. Magnets stick to all my stainless knives. I just tested VG-10 and S30V and whatever Victorinox uses and of course the magnet sticks. I expected it to.
So I guess I wonder either a) was that "boat stuff" all a crock, b) are boats using H1 or something (does a magnet stick to H1?) else?
Just wondering in terms of knowing more about steel. Boat guys know a lot about chines and tumblehome and deadrise and freeboard but steel? Not so much...beyond never use a steel propeller in fresh water with lots of obstacles...use aluminum...better to break a prop than the drive shaft. Use bronze in saltwater if you can. That's about it for marine metalurgy.