Steel type for cross-guard and pommels

[AenglonOtt]

i have researched this topic before and have heard a variety of answers but always the same question: “what is the intended function of the sword?”. Having said that I do not intend on using my swords for any re-enactment purposes but would prefer for them to be tough and take a good beating if the need was there. I have heard for pommels that cold rolled mild steel is okay to use as the pommel serves as a weight, but the cross-guard I have heard needs to be durable as it needs to stand up to a blow. I would love to use 1018 mild steel as it would save me on cost, but I am unsure of its durability. What steel should I use? Do any of you guys have any preferences or suggestions that you may use for your own? Thus far I have made 4 blades, 2 smaller knives, 1 Bowie, and 1 single edged sword (yatagan inspired). I would eventually like to work my way up to a double edged sword, but I thought it a good idea to go slowly up that ladder and get familiar will how the steel can be worked. All my blades Have been made by the stock removal method as I do not have a forge yet, and are 5160. Thank you for any knowledge and advice.

-Aenglon Ott

 

[Richard338]

For me it has come down to the finish I want on those parts (I think any of these choices are fine for guards, bolsters or pommels). Mild steel (and some others) will take bluing very well. I have used 416 stainless for a bright finish.
I'm doing some now in damascus and although I normally wouldn't worry about doing HT on these parts, it does affect the etch I will achieve and so I plan to HT those parts.

 

[joedhiggins]

Any steel is fine. 1018 works great. Hardening a crossguard will do nothing positive for its performance, and will make your life much more difficult.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Any steel will work. Low carbon is the norm. Wrought iron is popular because of the look.

 

[jdm61]

Birchwood Sasey super blue paste can get you an interesting "French gray" finish on mild steel with a few applications and then carding with OOOO steel wool. . Combining it with an initial ferric or vinegar etch works too.