Hi guys, Ive been looking around the site for the past couple weeks and finally decided to make an account. Anyway, I live right next to the coast and have always had problems with rust even when I regularly clean and oil my collection. In the past when I have seen small rust spots Ive just used some steel wool and it takes it right off but now that im getting into some more expensive knives Im wondering if it is still a good idea. What do you think? Any better alternatives? Thanks in advance for your help.
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Steel Wool?
- Thread starter lillging
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2013
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- 24
from my expriances with knives is when you store them, throw a silica gel packet(air absorber you get in electornics pacaging) in where you store them. this makes a big differance in the rust spots that I got on my knives. other than that 3-in-1 works better than W-D IMO. DONT USE STEEL WOOL ON KNIVES. its not bad for beater knives, but I tend to think it does more damage than good over time. hope this helps!
Thanks for the advise. I actually just went out today and got some, so hopefully it will help. Aside from prevention, if small rust spots due occur what should I do? Leave them be?
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2010
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Get some Flitz or Simichrome metal polish - and rub them on with a soft cloth. This will take out most superficial problems. And it leaves the blade nicely polished.
TedP
TedP
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- Jul 17, 2012
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I have used steel wool on old knives that have deep rust spots on them to bring them back to a fairly smooth condition, and then used simichrome on them for a finishing touch. The steel wool is a little harsh for regular use in my mind, but ok for a first attack on a badly rusted blade. I then just keep them dry and clean and stored where they can get good fresh air. I don't store them in the garage or an outdoor non air controlled area. Don't have a problem with further rust.
Most of my older knives are carbon steel, and not stainless, and I have lived on the coast of Texas in the past. (Hot, high humidity, salty air, etc.) I think the key is to keep them clean and DRY.
Blessings,
Omar
Most of my older knives are carbon steel, and not stainless, and I have lived on the coast of Texas in the past. (Hot, high humidity, salty air, etc.) I think the key is to keep them clean and DRY.
Blessings,
Omar
I use Marine Tuf-glide on all my knives (except dive knives and kitchen knives) and never had a problem with rust despite living in both semi-tropical and tropical climates for the last 30 years. Summer time in Thailand, even in the mountains, has more water in the air than in the bath tub, but nothing seems to get through Marine Tuf-glide. It protects all my storage knives, and my working tools.
(Dive knives get a coating of silicone O-ring grease, and kitchen knives just get dried well.)
Stitchawl
(Dive knives get a coating of silicone O-ring grease, and kitchen knives just get dried well.)
Stitchawl
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- Jul 13, 2011
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- 2,090
+1. I use Wenol. All are good metal polishes.
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- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,391
On satin-finished blades, very fine steel wool (#0000) will do fine. Might avoid using it on polished blades; it may still be OK, depending on the steel/hardness. Steel wool isn't 'hardened' to the same degree as knife steel, so in many cases the fine grades won't scratch a hardened knife blade, when used under light pressure. And when used with some oil or WD-40, the abrasive effect is further reduced.
Other options for rust:
1. Baking soda scrubbing often works well on 'new' rust, which hasn't worked too deeply into the steel. It's a mild abrasive, much softer than steel. In addition to it's scrubbing capability, it's mildly alkaline in pH, which is handy on blades exposed to acidic materials (helps neutralize the acidity and halt corrosion). I use baking soda to scrub rust from carbon steel blades onto which I've 'forced' a patina with vinegar (acidic), and it works very well.
2. Very much agree with other posters about using Flitz/Simichrome. On a polished blade especially, it's probably the best option. On satin finished blades, it certainly won't harm anything, but might leave some 'bright' areas on the otherwise muted finish.
3. Used with care, Bar Keepers Friend will remove rust almost immediately. It contains oxalic acid, which literally dissolves (chemically) the rust and other oxides of steel. For small rust spots, use the BKF powder mixed with water into a paste. Dip a Q-tip into the paste, and rub the rust spot for maybe ~30 seconds or so (no longer than 60 seconds). Wipe the paste away with a damp paper towel, and rinse thoroughly. The acid will etch clean steel too, if left on the surface too long, so be careful with it (read the warnings on the container, and heed them). By the way, this method works beautifully on rust stains left on plates/stoneware (if you've ever left dishes in the sink too long, with knives/forks/spoons laying on them, leaving rusty spots on the plates).
David
Other options for rust:
1. Baking soda scrubbing often works well on 'new' rust, which hasn't worked too deeply into the steel. It's a mild abrasive, much softer than steel. In addition to it's scrubbing capability, it's mildly alkaline in pH, which is handy on blades exposed to acidic materials (helps neutralize the acidity and halt corrosion). I use baking soda to scrub rust from carbon steel blades onto which I've 'forced' a patina with vinegar (acidic), and it works very well.
2. Very much agree with other posters about using Flitz/Simichrome. On a polished blade especially, it's probably the best option. On satin finished blades, it certainly won't harm anything, but might leave some 'bright' areas on the otherwise muted finish.
3. Used with care, Bar Keepers Friend will remove rust almost immediately. It contains oxalic acid, which literally dissolves (chemically) the rust and other oxides of steel. For small rust spots, use the BKF powder mixed with water into a paste. Dip a Q-tip into the paste, and rub the rust spot for maybe ~30 seconds or so (no longer than 60 seconds). Wipe the paste away with a damp paper towel, and rinse thoroughly. The acid will etch clean steel too, if left on the surface too long, so be careful with it (read the warnings on the container, and heed them). By the way, this method works beautifully on rust stains left on plates/stoneware (if you've ever left dishes in the sink too long, with knives/forks/spoons laying on them, leaving rusty spots on the plates).
David
I second this. I see no problem with useing very fine steel wool for rust as long as you clean and oil the knife afterwards. I've gotten knives from people that wanted work done... Generally steel wool is something you use when oil just aint gonna cut it.
I agree with everything this Brother has to say concerning the usage of "steel wool". As far as rust removal goes it's hard to beat the Flitz Polish products. Flitz has many great products. Their micro-polishing cloth is the best I've ever seen>> I would even recommend it over steel wool in many cases.
And as far as prevention goes you do indeed need to lubricate all metal tools for preventative purposes if nothing else. Sentry Solution's product called TUF CLOTH is also a great option.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2010
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- 1,315
The problem with Steel Wool is that it is made from steel. And steel rusts. If you aren't using new steel wool that has been stored properly, you could be flaking off bits of rust and corrosion which can get into your pivot, etc.
This is an especially bad problem for woodworkers and folks making knife scales because the steel fibers work themselves into the pores of the wood and are hard to get out. Most woodworkers I know have switched to non-woven synthetic steel wool pads for this reason.
TedP
This is an especially bad problem for woodworkers and folks making knife scales because the steel fibers work themselves into the pores of the wood and are hard to get out. Most woodworkers I know have switched to non-woven synthetic steel wool pads for this reason.
TedP
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jun 6, 2000
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- 12,554
Knives should be cleaned thoroughly after using steel wool.
I have made a lot of scales, pistol grips and knife handles. I have never seen steel wool imbed and cause problems.
I have made a lot of scales, pistol grips and knife handles. I have never seen steel wool imbed and cause problems.
At work we use a good product called "Ospho". www.ospho.com You need to research it though, I have never used it on my knives, not to say that it would not work wonders. I just never thought of it till now.