Sticky Compression Lock Release on PM 2

Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Messages
16
When the compression lock is released on my new PM 2 it feels kind of sticky and makes a little scratching noise. I'm wondering what I can do to remedy that. It works OK, but the noise and resistance are irritating. I'd prefer not to take the knife apart if possible. I'm thinking that maybe there is a burr on the compression lock tab that is causing this but perhaps it is something else. I suppose I could send it back to Spyderco. Any suggestions?
 
Some people suggested to rotate the stop pin a bit, though it did not work for me. Try to scratch the lockface with a pencil. It might help.
 
You willhave to open that up and clean /lubricate the parts, also polish sand the washer on a flat surface.
my .002
 
Assume you mean a sticky lock. Never had it in a PM2, but several times in a PM3 (most recently in Maxamet).

Note that this makes the knife out of spec and Spyderco should fix it if you are willing to send it in.

Only way I know how to fix lock stick myself, is by reducing the lock/detent pressure. You have to take it apart for that, however. And you might not like the softer detent afterwards.

The more I work on them, the more I wonder why the PM[23] has to be so finicky to adjust ....
 
Assume you mean a sticky lock. Never had it in a PM2, but several times in a PM3 (most recently in Maxamet).

Note that this makes the knife out of spec and Spyderco should fix it if you are willing to send it in.

Only way I know how to fix lock stick myself, is by reducing the lock/detent pressure. You have to take it apart for that, however. And you might not like the softer detent afterwards.

The more I work on them, the more I wonder why the PM[23] has to be so finicky to adjust ....

Is that really true that knives with sticky lock are regarded as out of spec by Spyderco? I recall more than a few Spyderco K2 had this issue.
 
Every once in a while mine will stick for a bit. Blowing it out with compressed air and cleaning the lock surfaces as best I can without disassembly usually clears it up pretty quickly.
 
Thanks for the suggestions! I've been trying the pencil trick. Not much change yet but we'll see how it goes.
 
I had a sticky lock on a Yojimbo 2 I got off the exchange and I loosened the body screws to try to rotate the stop bar. When I tightened it back up the blade was way off center. I messed with it for like a whole weekend and when I got it perfectly centered again the lock stick was gone....not sure this is helpful, actually
 
One of mine was sticky...I hit it with a black sharpie where the surfaces
mated. It was fine in a couple of weeks
 
I loosened the screws that hold the lock bar and applied pencil lead to the locking surface. Then I locked and unlocked the blade a bunch of times. It's now much better.
 
Assume you mean a sticky lock. Never had it in a PM2, but several times in a PM3 (most recently in Maxamet).

Note that this makes the knife out of spec and Spyderco should fix it if you are willing to send it in.

Only way I know how to fix lock stick myself, is by reducing the lock/detent pressure. You have to take it apart for that, however. And you might not like the softer detent afterwards.

The more I work on them, the more I wonder why the PM[23] has to be so finicky to adjust ....

It’s because on the PM2 the action is not only determined by the tightness of the pivot but also how tight the stop pin screws are in.
 
It’s because on the PM2 the action is not only determined by the tightness of the pivot but also how tight the stop pin screws are in.

Read my post, please: "Assume you mean a sticky lock. Never had it in a PM2, but several times in a PM3 (most recently in Maxamet)."
 
Try a couple of drops of Rem Oil gun oil. Or Breakfree CLP.

On the lock interface? My experience is that this can make lock stick considerably worse, as it allows the lock to travel further across the tang.
 
No, it should clean any and all gunk out of the lock, then lightly lube the action. It is not a thick gun oil but a liquid that clean, lubricates, and protects the metal parts. CLP.
 
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