Stitchawl strops

cudgee

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May 13, 2019
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Was just reading one of your posts from a few years ago about casing leather for strops. I just have a couple of questions. Do i need to case the leather if i am going to be applying a compound or spray/paste? Also will i need to treat the leather with a conditioning cream if applying compound or spray/paste? Thanks.
 
cudgee I recently made a couple of stops myself and what I was told to do here was after glueing the leather down to a piece of wood work some mineral oil into it then warm it with a hair dryer and work a compound stick into it or spray some diamond compound onto it then start stroping. I have to say that it was very easy to make and I am quite impressed with the results. Here is a link that might answer some of your questions. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/help-me-make-a-strop.1641819/#post-18778499 And one more Link https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/casing-leather-for-a-strop-myself.1229821/
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Was just reading one of your posts from a few years ago about casing leather for strops. I just have a couple of questions. Do i need to case the leather if i am going to be applying a compound or spray/paste? Also will i need to treat the leather with a conditioning cream if applying compound or spray/paste? Thanks.

Sorry, Cudgee. I just saw this thread today. I believe I answered these questions for you in another thread. If there is still any confusion, please let me know. It's OK to send me a PM as I'm often on the road and miss some threads.

Remember... casing and rolling the leather is just to compress it, making it a more firm substrate for stropping, reducing roll-over of your edge. Feeding the leather will make it last longer.


Stitchawl
 
Thankyou, for your replies. You have been a great help. It is great to get input from someone such as yourself who is very experienced in these matters. You cannot buy experience.:thumbsup:
 
I use the hair dryer on both the leather and the compound. Half way thru the process, I might have to heat the untreated area along with the compound again.
It gives it a deep, thick application.
 
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I personally do not like a thick application of compound. Less is more. I find if it is to thick, it is like a protective layer on the strop itself and is not as effective. I prefer a very thin layer, whatever cutting compound i am using, especially any of the diamond pastes, sprays but any applied cutting agent. But that is just how i do it.
 
I personally do not like a thick application of compound. Less is more. I find if it is to thick, it is like a protective layer on the strop itself and is not as effective. I prefer a very thin layer, whatever cutting compound i am using, especially any of the diamond pastes, sprays but any applied cutting agent. But that is just how i do it.

I'm with you Cudgee. Less is more when discussing compounds and oil lubricants. When using compounds, we are talking about cutting surfaces that are measured in microns. Often parts of microns. And that's as thick as the compound needs to be. So long as the blade is touching compound, the compound can do its thing. When using a Diamond Spray compound, just a light spritz does the trick. You don't apply it like a coat of house paint. If using powdered compound, a light dusting will do the job. If using wax or oil-based compounds, just enough to 'show color' will do the trick. In fact, a thicker coating will allow the top layer of compound to slide around under the blade rather than abrade against it, reducing its effectiveness. Now... I'm not saying that it will not be effective. I'm saying that it will increase the number of strokes needed to achieve the same results. Those little bricks of green or white compound, the size of a large match box, should last the average user about 4-5 lifetimes. Give or take one or two.


Stitchawl
 
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