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Strop Cleaning?
- Thread starter BD_01
- Start date
There's some helpful info in previous threads, here's one:
https://bladeforums.com/threads/how-often-do-you-recharge-your-strop.1435955/
I'm finding my strops that have compound will go a LONG time without degrading the performance. For light maintenance--say you're using a plain hardwood strop with compound applied and the strop is getting visibly loaded after stropping many knives--you could just wipe off with a soft cloth, then if cutting effectiveness is noticeably reduced, reapply a little compound. For hardcore maintenance--like giving your strop a total fresh start after years of use or you want to use a different kind of compound, with a wood strop I recently just resanded the surface until I got down to clean wood. I'm also currently using a hard-backed linen strop (linen 'nanocloth' on glass, with cbn compound). I've not been using this long enough for loading to become an issue, but obviously as some point, the strop will get so loaded it will be worn out and the linen cloth will just need to be replaced. At the fairly low volume of hand sharpening I do, I'd expect that compound loaded linen strop to last for at least a couple years of regular sharpening before the linen would need to be replaced. That's just an estimate, based on the fact I've already stropped several dozen knives on the nanocloth, and it has not even begun to show any signs of loading yet.
https://bladeforums.com/threads/how-often-do-you-recharge-your-strop.1435955/
I'm finding my strops that have compound will go a LONG time without degrading the performance. For light maintenance--say you're using a plain hardwood strop with compound applied and the strop is getting visibly loaded after stropping many knives--you could just wipe off with a soft cloth, then if cutting effectiveness is noticeably reduced, reapply a little compound. For hardcore maintenance--like giving your strop a total fresh start after years of use or you want to use a different kind of compound, with a wood strop I recently just resanded the surface until I got down to clean wood. I'm also currently using a hard-backed linen strop (linen 'nanocloth' on glass, with cbn compound). I've not been using this long enough for loading to become an issue, but obviously as some point, the strop will get so loaded it will be worn out and the linen cloth will just need to be replaced. At the fairly low volume of hand sharpening I do, I'd expect that compound loaded linen strop to last for at least a couple years of regular sharpening before the linen would need to be replaced. That's just an estimate, based on the fact I've already stropped several dozen knives on the nanocloth, and it has not even begun to show any signs of loading yet.
Some good tips in the other thread on ways to clean a leather strop.
Another idea to consider, which I practice and a few here in the forum do: only use clean leather strops. Do compound stropping on something hard, then save the leather for a final stage strop to refine your apex. If you go that route, it not only works better IMO, it means you never have to 'clean' the leather strop at all.
Another idea to consider, which I practice and a few here in the forum do: only use clean leather strops. Do compound stropping on something hard, then save the leather for a final stage strop to refine your apex. If you go that route, it not only works better IMO, it means you never have to 'clean' the leather strop at all.
Wowbagger
Gold Member
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- Sep 20, 2015
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- 8,036
I don't strop much. Two thoughts :
Any kind of sanding is going to introduce relatively huge hunks of grit into the surface.
I wonder how it would work to use some paint thinner on a rag or over a dish using a brush ?
The paint thinner would disolve the old wax and paste. Hopefully it wouldn't attack the glue holding the strop media to the board etc.
Would have to leave the smelly thing out side to dry out.
That would be OK; I wouldn't miss it.
My main strops are maple (solvent wouldn't bother that) and my long leather on wood strop has the leather attatched with brass counter sunk screws on the ends so mine should be solvent ready ( three screws on each end) (brass so if an edge colided with a screw there would be little or no damage (I've never hit a screw with an edge little chance with edge trailing strokes . . . OK the brass looks better . . . there, I said it).
Any kind of sanding is going to introduce relatively huge hunks of grit into the surface.
I wonder how it would work to use some paint thinner on a rag or over a dish using a brush ?
The paint thinner would disolve the old wax and paste. Hopefully it wouldn't attack the glue holding the strop media to the board etc.
Would have to leave the smelly thing out side to dry out.
That would be OK; I wouldn't miss it.
My main strops are maple (solvent wouldn't bother that) and my long leather on wood strop has the leather attatched with brass counter sunk screws on the ends so mine should be solvent ready ( three screws on each end) (brass so if an edge colided with a screw there would be little or no damage (I've never hit a screw with an edge little chance with edge trailing strokes . . . OK the brass looks better . . . there, I said it).
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2009
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I use Laquer thinner , not paint thinner ,which is too oily.
Just on a rag , and wipe the strop clean in a minute or 2.
It will dissolve some glues, so don't get it on whatever adhesive holds your leather on.
Even though I like Laquer thinner ( no oil) to clean it , once it's clean I rub on lightly my new compound
and spray a little WD-40 on my finger and rub it all even so there's no streaks or high spots.
If you doubt it , try it on a scrap piece of leather and see for yourself.
All the extra laquer thinner you bought can be used for multiple cleaning jobs later.
Just KNOW what you can and cannot use it on , plus it's highly flammable.
I smoke , but never around that stuff.
Can clean your skin with it , just don't use much or for too long. Read the can.
You want your strop clean and don't want to screw around , use LT.
Paint thinner ( aka Varsol) is the shits and messy.
I have zero use for the stuff.
Just on a rag , and wipe the strop clean in a minute or 2.
It will dissolve some glues, so don't get it on whatever adhesive holds your leather on.
Even though I like Laquer thinner ( no oil) to clean it , once it's clean I rub on lightly my new compound
and spray a little WD-40 on my finger and rub it all even so there's no streaks or high spots.
If you doubt it , try it on a scrap piece of leather and see for yourself.
All the extra laquer thinner you bought can be used for multiple cleaning jobs later.
Just KNOW what you can and cannot use it on , plus it's highly flammable.
I smoke , but never around that stuff.
Can clean your skin with it , just don't use much or for too long. Read the can.
You want your strop clean and don't want to screw around , use LT.
Paint thinner ( aka Varsol) is the shits and messy.
I have zero use for the stuff.
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
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- 1,027
Not sure if anyone else has mentioned but I own a KnifePlus strop block with green compound as well and I find that a little bit of olive oil on my finger tip works miracles! Not only does it clean the strop but it also brings new compound to the surface of the strop.
Let it sit over night and say goodbye to a “shiny loaded strop”
Let it sit over night and say goodbye to a “shiny loaded strop”
The 'polite' way to clean a leather strop is with saddle soap. This will work on cloth strops too.
However, the 'speedy, effective' way to clean one is to use Stoddard Solvent (sold as 'Odorless Paint Thinner.') this is the same solvent found in WD-40 that makes it such a wonderful tool. But unlike WD-40 which will leave a film of mineral oil behind, Stoddard Solvent will evaporate without a trace.
But... why clean a strop? Unless you are changing to a finer grit, in which case, using a DIFFERENT strop would be 100x safer, just add more compound on top of the old. It will cut just as well.
Stitchawl
However, the 'speedy, effective' way to clean one is to use Stoddard Solvent (sold as 'Odorless Paint Thinner.') this is the same solvent found in WD-40 that makes it such a wonderful tool. But unlike WD-40 which will leave a film of mineral oil behind, Stoddard Solvent will evaporate without a trace.
But... why clean a strop? Unless you are changing to a finer grit, in which case, using a DIFFERENT strop would be 100x safer, just add more compound on top of the old. It will cut just as well.
Stitchawl
Sonnydaze
Gold Member
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I have scrubbed my leather strop with soapy water, and let it dry...
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- 13,495
I've seen little need to completely clean off a strop, i.e., stripping away all of the swarf & old compound. Instead, on strops with compound, just wiping it down with a rag (microfiber towel works great), perhaps moistened with a little solvent like WD-40, stoddard solvent, isopropyl alcohol, etc, does enough to remove the stuff that needs to be removed. It won't matter if it still looks somewhat black or dirty; just remove the loose, messy stuff that otherwise would end up on your blade. Then reapply compound.
On something like a denim/fabric strop, I've just used a dry microfiber towel to wipe them down, before applying new compound. I avoid using solvents on those, as it might create a problem with the glues used to adhere the denim to the hard backing.
I've only completely stripped or resurfaced strops if I didn't like the smoothness or character of the substrate itself. For example, I've sanded leather to give it more 'nap' to accept stick-type compounds, as it doesn't apply very easily to smooth leather. And I've sanded or planed wood strops smooth, to get rid of surface irregularities (gouges, bumps, 'waves', etc), to improve their performance. And a time or two, I've done it to prep the surface for a different, finer compound, per that point mentioned earlier.
On something like a denim/fabric strop, I've just used a dry microfiber towel to wipe them down, before applying new compound. I avoid using solvents on those, as it might create a problem with the glues used to adhere the denim to the hard backing.
I've only completely stripped or resurfaced strops if I didn't like the smoothness or character of the substrate itself. For example, I've sanded leather to give it more 'nap' to accept stick-type compounds, as it doesn't apply very easily to smooth leather. And I've sanded or planed wood strops smooth, to get rid of surface irregularities (gouges, bumps, 'waves', etc), to improve their performance. And a time or two, I've done it to prep the surface for a different, finer compound, per that point mentioned earlier.
Last edited:
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- Aug 26, 2011
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- 250
I cleaned mine leather strop with pen eraser then reload it.
Pen eraser remove mostly the swarf an work for me. Keep in mind that the leather still keep a bit of compound after erase it but is quick and easy.
Before cleaning:
After reload:
The eraser:
Edit: unfortunately I didn’t take a picture after cleaning.
Pen eraser remove mostly the swarf an work for me. Keep in mind that the leather still keep a bit of compound after erase it but is quick and easy.
Before cleaning:
The eraser:
Edit: unfortunately I didn’t take a picture after cleaning.
Last edited:
Uncle Timbo
Gold Member
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- Nov 23, 2005
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- 5,344
Go to the automotive section and buy mechanics hand cleaner. 99 cents? Lanolin. Clean strop with hot water. Let dry overnight. When you recharge, heat strop and compound with your ol ladies hair dryer. Boom!
Post method and results here.
Post method and results here.
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The WorkSharp strops have the flesh-side nap of the leather up ( it was on my Field and guided models)
Seeing as they provided the petro jelly , I tried it on a piece of scrap on the rough side. It smoothed out the leather somewhat and helped make applying the compound easier, so I did it on them. You don't need much.
As most compounds have a wax base , petroleum products appear to soften them and that makes it easier to apply and to smooth them out.
All my homemade strops have the smooth side up , but with those I compound first , then rub with a little WD-40 to even it all out and let it dry for a while.
Seeing as they provided the petro jelly , I tried it on a piece of scrap on the rough side. It smoothed out the leather somewhat and helped make applying the compound easier, so I did it on them. You don't need much.
As most compounds have a wax base , petroleum products appear to soften them and that makes it easier to apply and to smooth them out.
All my homemade strops have the smooth side up , but with those I compound first , then rub with a little WD-40 to even it all out and let it dry for a while.
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- Sep 23, 2014
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- 1,287
Hi,
What is a strop , if not skin whithout feelings?
What is strop compound, if not lipstick?
Just scrape it off with the edge of a credit card or similar scraper
What is a strop , if not skin whithout feelings?
What is strop compound, if not lipstick?
Just scrape it off with the edge of a credit card or similar scraper
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2009
- Messages
- 2,720
Hi,
What is a strop , if not skin whithout feelings?
What is strop compound, if not lipstick?
Just scrape it off with the edge of a credit card or similar scraper
I can't use my credit card because it's "loaded" with knife purchases.
I will use my wife's lipstick if I run out of compound though....Revlon Rouge if you will.
BD_01
Basic Member
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I've basically switched to cardboard strips for stropping instead of leather, I cut them to size to match my Spyderco ceramic stone and use them on top of the stone, seems to work even faster than my leather strop. But I have heard that you don't really need to clean leather strops, just apply a new layer of compound on them.