Stropping with valve grinding compound

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Feb 3, 2001
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Can any one give me a reason why lapping/valve grinding compound SHOULD NOT be used for stropping blades. I just received three nice pieces of leather 4"X12"X 3/16", I've mounted 1 piece on a hardwood base with a handle and have gotten some really nice hair popping results with the harder steels, ATS34, 154CM, VG 10, even Boyd's dendritic? steel. I'm just curious as to whether or not I'm trashing some nice leather.
 
I have an old can kicking around which seems to have an oil base. Depending on the oil or other ingredients, it may have long term negative effects on the leather.

Most leather is pretty inexpensive and readily available. If its working for you, I'd keep using it.

Its a very interesting idea!
 
Would I be better off with a natural oil base, I have some very fine diamond dust paste that I used to use but the medium it was suspended in dried up and I'm not sure what to replace it with, when I used it it seemed to impregnate the leather and rarely needed to be replaced.
 
I rub down my strop with the same polishing compound used on buffs - emory, jewlers...
Whatever. They will all work. You can actually remove scratches as heavy as 120 grit if you bear down. So this technique is very usefull. You can even polish small parts with this technique.
 
It's been a long time since I used valve grinding compound, but the type I used was much, much, coarser than I would use on a knife. It would not only be hard on the edge it would also tend to marr the finish. I also don't remember the grit as being as uniform in grit size as most lapping compounds.
 
A good plain leather strap has worked
on razors for years
if it's sharpened right I'd say plain is good.
 
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