Recommendation? Struggling to choose my Chosera or Shapton Edge Pro stones

Wow Wade, that is a pretty damning review! I wish you would have come here and posted your thoughts about the Matrix stones as you were using them so I could maybe help out. They are totally different than the Venevs and need to be used differently for their best performance. I do have a few questions, please. I am only listing for clarity, not to be overbearing, I am really interested in your answers.

1 - What grits did you get?
2 - How much time, how many knives did you spend with them?
3 - How many times did you dress them? Did you use around 240 grit loose abrasive on a flat plate?
4 - Did you use light pressure?
5 - Did you use only edge trailing strokes to refine?
6 - Can you give me a link to the Facebook group that you refer to?

Man, you got to talk to me here, I need to understand how you based your opinion on my stones, please. I know how they stack up against Venevs and if you find they performed so poorly then something or things were done wrong. I certainly won't be saying the Matrix stones are the best since there is no such thing. It's kind of like ice cream flavors, we all have our favorites. If this is too much thread drift then let's take it up in the Matrix stone thread, which sickpuppy1 linked to in post #6.

I spoke to Ben and started with purchasing the 2300 and 4000 Matrix stones to act as my finishing stones in conjunction with the 400 and 1000 EP aluminum oxide stones. As I noted previously, I generally sharpen before excessive dulling. I started with a M390 BM 707 that was a little below shaving sharp and the 2300 stone. I liked the feedback I got. After just a hand full of trailing passes with the 2300, I got the knife so sharp that I started to get a little bit concerned, and wound up not even using the 4000. Then I tried a Wustof paring knife with the 2300...again I got it sharp to a point where I felt a little uncomfortable. It sails through paracord. It cuts hair without the blade making contact with my skin if I run it along the base of the hair. Needless to say, I am extremely pleased to be able to achieve such results, and I am going to purchase the 250, 650, and 1100 as well, although I am guessing I will typically be starting at 1100 or 2300 as going coarser would just unnecessarily remove more steel.

Question - if I have the 250-4000 Diamond Matrix stones, and I wish to reprofile a blade or sharpen a super dull blade with some significant edge damage, should I use the 250 Diamond Matrix (with more than the 10-ish strokes, obviously), or start with the 220 EP stone and then move to the 250 Diamond Matrix? (This would be extremely rare.)

Also, I know it bears no relevancy to the discussion whatsoever, but the cosmetic finish of these stones pleases me immensely.

Thanks for the input and making me aware of these.

Hi D Diemaker --I realized I did not quote you so you probably aren't getting a notification. Any thoughts on this? (I attempted to private message you)
 
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Hi pnsxyr, I shied away from answering because I don't have much experience with the EP stones. Not that it is the right stone to move much metal but I would go with the 250 using about 8 oz of pressure and quick back and forth passes until you reach the apex. I recently got EPs set of Shapton Glass stones to play with and as soon as I started using one again the first thought was "crap, it's shedding grit!". I really like the fact the Matrix stones don't shed grit, they are much cleaner and don't wear much at all. But, the 250 doesn't move much metal, that is what the 80 is for, so you better be patient.

The first time I stropped our Henkels knives with bare leather, after the 4k, my wife chewed me out for making them too sharp. She was used to 4k keenness but stropping just went too far, it really does make a difference.
 
P pnsxyr From most of the steel's you described like S30v and M390 I would do yourself a favor and get diamond stones of some sort,you'll find the Matrix or Venev diamond stones to cut those steel's better.

With those steel's and most PM steel's you will get a much sharper edge and that will also stay sharper longer from what I found as well with diamonds or CBN,the problem is that a lot of the PM steel's contain alloys that are harder then the silicon carbide or aluminum oxide which is what pretty much all water stones are made of and all you do is end up sharpening around a lot of the different carbides that are harder then a water sharpening stone.

I sharpen a lot of S30v M390 S110v and M4 and I find for most steels I like to use the Venev stones or the Poltava Metallic CBN stones from 120 240 and 400 then jump over to the Venev stones.
 
Hi pnsxyr, I shied away from answering because I don't have much experience with the EP stones. Not that it is the right stone to move much metal but I would go with the 250 using about 8 oz of pressure and quick back and forth passes until you reach the apex. I recently got EPs set of Shapton Glass stones to play with and as soon as I started using one again the first thought was "crap, it's shedding grit!". I really like the fact the Matrix stones don't shed grit, they are much cleaner and don't wear much at all. But, the 250 doesn't move much metal, that is what the 80 is for, so you better be patient.

The first time I stropped our Henkels knives with bare leather, after the 4k, my wife chewed me out for making them too sharp. She was used to 4k keenness but stropping just went too far, it really does make a difference.

To be honest, I wasn't prepared for how sharp I got it with the 2300...it was so aggressively sharp that I was a little taken back. I've never got those results with the polish tapes or my single 5000 Chosera (this originally said "cholera"...that was autocorrect. I do not have cholera), likely because I am too impatient for them. I am a little scared of the 4000 now! The speed of the 2300 has me excited to try them all. The lack of shedding is also very nice...I scratched up a nice blade once because I wasn't vigilant about removing the shedding and some wedged between the blade table and the blade.

From what you're saying, it sounds like adding the 250, 650, and 1100 will work for me right now. If I find myself needing to reprofile or remove more amounts of metal more frequently, then I'll pick up an 80 as well. For the time being though, I don't see that being a common use for me, and envision 1100, 2300, and 4000 seeing by far the most use.
 
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P pnsxyr From most of the steel's you described like S30v and M390 I would do yourself a favor and get diamond stones of some sort,you'll find the Matrix or Venev diamond stones to cut those steel's better.

With those steel's and most PM steel's you will get a much sharper edge and that will also stay sharper longer from what I found as well with diamonds or CBN,the problem is that a lot of the PM steel's contain alloys that are harder then the silicon carbide or aluminum oxide which is what pretty much all water stones are made of and all you do is end up sharpening around a lot of the different carbides that are harder then a water sharpening stone.

I sharpen a lot of S30v M390 S110v and M4 and I find for most steels I like to use the Venev stones or the Poltava Metallic CBN stones from 120 240 and 400 then jump over to the Venev stones.

I think that is the issue I am encountering with the aluminum oxide stones I've been using! I didn't know why I was struggling, but I was with some of those steels, and that is cool to have an explanation on what is happening! Im not the most patient person in the world, so I get a little frustrated when I am trying to sharpen certain steels and the speed of progression could be timed with a calendar. Is it the vanadium carbides that are giving me the issue with steels like S30V and M390 versus the aluminum oxide stones? Literally, I am blown away by how fast and effortlessly the 2300 Matrix Diamond brought M390 to a scary sharp.

How often do you find yourself using the 120? I assume its aggressiveness is relatively similar to the Matrix's 80? Is that a stone you are using almost exclusively when reprofiling or repairing pretty significant edge damage? How high do you finish on S30V?
 
I mainly just use it on a brand new knife if it has uneven bevel's or if the angle is not where I want it and I'll start with that stones,I also use the 120 for repair as well or on a knife where it has gone way to long between sharpening's.

The Metallic CBN 120 cut's fast and doesn't tear up the apex either to bad and the 240 really start to clean thing up and the same with the 400,I would say the 80 Martix is comparable to the 80 and 120 Metallic CBN stones.

If you watch for me to post a review in about 2 to 3 weeks I'll be posting a review on a 30K Poltava Metallic CBN stone that I have coming to me,I own a 50 80 120 240 400 1K 4K 8K 15K Metallic stones,and on a brand new knife if I start with 120 and go threw to 15K find it gives the edge a very fine and at the same time toothy edge that's needs a bit of refinement,so far I have only tried the 120 to 15K on S110V and M390.

What I like a lot about the Metallic CBN stones is that if a knife is a bit dull mainly the lowest grit I need to go to is the 400 and although I really like the Venev stones they are best finishing stones at 400 grit and up unlike the Metallic stones,at 400 the Metallic stones start to do a better job at not chewing up the edge as much as the 120 not that 120 is that bad really.

I also need to order some good diamond spray and I'm looking at getting Portland Knife House spray as I read Deadboxhero on the Spyderco forum's say it was the best diamond spray he had ever used as far as giving the edge more bite and not polishing as much.

I also ordered a Manix 2 in M390 and liked it so much I ordered a second one and it should be here today and I also ordered a Shaman in Rex 45 from S&R Knives in Canada and I'm going to use those knives to test out the 30K stone on,I also have a Gritomatic Ceramic stone coming as well and I'm going to test it to compare it to the Spyderco stone of similar grit.

You'll find you can use a water stone for finishing at really high grit's if diamonds have been used first but I find the big thing is not to over work the edge with the water stones,if you want good finishing water stones look on ebay for a Suehiro G8 8K and Suehiro Debado stones like a 3 and 6K,there's a guy selling the G8 by the name rainbow sharpening stones or something like that,the G8 is a silicon carbide stone but it finish's like an aluminum oxide stone,silicon carbide stones aren't normally well known to finish at high grits as well as an aluminum oxide stone at the grit,if you want to try and get a G8 stone just type in Suehiro G8 and that's it I think he has only one left and is going to be cutting Debado stones soon when it cools down he told me.

Here is a link I was able to find it because it doesn't always come up for some reason.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suehiro-Ri...&brand=Suehiro&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851
 
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If I were the OP I would be a little confused by the gamut of answers.
Isn't that normal?


To be honest, I wasn't prepared for how sharp I got it with the 2300...it was so aggressively sharp that I was a little taken back. I've never got those results with the polish tapes or my single 5000 Chosera (this originally said "cholera"...that was autocorrect. I do not have cholera), likely because I am too impatient for them. I am a little scared of the 4000 now! The speed of the 2300 has me excited to try them all. The lack of shedding is also very nice...I scratched up a nice blade once because I wasn't vigilant about removing the shedding and some wedged between the blade table and the blade.

From what you're saying, it sounds like adding the 250, 650, and 1100 will work for me right now. If I find myself needing to reprofile or remove more amounts of metal more frequently, then I'll pick up an 80 as well. For the time being though, I don't see that being a common use for me, and envision 1100, 2300, and 4000 seeing by far the most use.

I rarely use the 1100 on my own knives when maintaining them, but I also rarely dull them to get rid of the old metal at the apex. I just about always go to the 250 and often the 80 when sharpening for friends. If you don't want to spring for the 80 then perhaps a CKTG diamond plate for coarse roughing as the 250 will be a disappointment if you need to reprofile, but be gentle as you can't just dress it to make it new again.

Be careful about getting impatient and using a little more pressure to go faster, it does work but at some point as you use more pressure the stone will quite noticeably slow down. This is no problem really, you just need to dress it for 15 seconds and it will be good as new. Since you are new to them, and they are new, you do need to find out how much pressure is too much, as it depends on the grit and steel, and these stones don't reach their prime until the 3rd or so dressing. Don't be shy about dressing them a few times to learn how they react to it, it is part of the learning process.
 
I rarely use the 1100 on my own knives when maintaining them, but I also rarely dull them to get rid of the old metal at the apex. I just about always go to the 250 and often the 80 when sharpening for friends. If you don't want to spring for the 80 then perhaps a CKTG diamond plate for coarse roughing as the 250 will be a disappointment if you need to reprofile, but be gentle as you can't just dress it to make it new again.

Be careful about getting impatient and using a little more pressure to go faster, it does work but at some point as you use more pressure the stone will quite noticeably slow down. This is no problem really, you just need to dress it for 15 seconds and it will be good as new. Since you are new to them, and they are new, you do need to find out how much pressure is too much, as it depends on the grit and steel, and these stones don't reach their prime until the 3rd or so dressing. Don't be shy about dressing them a few times to learn how they react to it, it is part of the learning process.

In terms of dressing, I now have the 260 grit Alox powder. Are there any best practices I should be aware of when leveling? Beyond the 15 seconds and using a teaspoon of the powder, I assume the pressure should be relatively light?

Here is a Seb 21 Insingo I just purchased. It came with what I would consider to be a dull utility edge, so I just took a few passes on the EP with a sharpie test to see what was up. As you can see, the edge appears to be convex rather than straight. Would this sort of a situation constitute an 80 grit job?
Screen Shot 2020-06-11 at 6.04.42 PM.jpg

(if yes, I guess then I should get an 80 too lol)
 
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In terms of dressing, I now have the 260 grit Alox powder. Are there any best practices I should be aware of when leveling? Beyond the 15 seconds and using a teaspoon of the powder, I assume the pressure should be relatively light?

Here is a Seb 21 Insingo I just purchased. It came with what I would consider to be a dull utility edge, so I just took a few passes on the EP with a sharpie test to see what was up. As you can see, the edge appears to be convex rather than straight. Would this sort of a situation constitute an 80 grit job?
View attachment 1357027

(if yes, I guess then I should get an 80 too lol)
Errrr, I am kind of biased and think you should have the whole set, they work better that way. You may cringe at the price now but you will be glad you got them all after a few years. Every time you want to take any metal off you are going to want the 80, it's around 10 times faster than the 250. As with any real coarse stone be careful about random stray scratches, they can be nasty.

For dressing here is the last video I did on the subject. The only thing I would suggest differently is to use 60 grit on the 250.

 
Errrr, I am kind of biased and think you should have the whole set, they work better that way. You may cringe at the price now but you will be glad you got them all after a few years. Every time you want to take any metal off you are going to want the 80, it's around 10 times faster than the 250. As with any real coarse stone be careful about random stray scratches, they can be nasty.

For dressing here is the last video I did on the subject. The only thing I would suggest differently is to use 60 grit on the 250.


I just purchased all the remaining grits, including the 80, so I will have the full set of Matrix stones. I assume I will likely be using the 80 grit to put a proper edge on this Sebenza as I remove the convex. I will be using the EP leveling kit for dressing and have the Alox and SiC powders, and am wiping the stones with 90% IPA after each use.

Bear with me...I want to be sure I do not harm the stones when dressing and use them correctly...
  1. In terms of frequency of dressing, from what I have read and seen now, is the only reliable indicator of when to dress when I notice they cut noticeably slower than before?
  2. In the video it looked like you were only using slight pressure when dressing - is this correct?
  3. With the 80 grit, you noted that neither the 240 Alox powder or 60 grit SiC powder will do the trick...the sand isn't really practical for me right now (that sounds loud enough to get me evicted!), and I do not have any other stone this aggressive. Will the 60 grit SiC powder work if I use it for an extended period?
  4. Do you advise I dress these when new? - with diamond stones, it looks like some makers do and others do not.
  5. As I am removing that Sebenza's convex edge (S35VN steel), I intend to do this with the 80 grit. From what I have read and watched with your Maxamet video and write ups, the conservative approach here is trailing edge passes only and less than 1 pound of pressure, continuing until that convex becomes flat and passes the sharpie test - I will probably grind this angle at 19 degrees and set it while sharpening on the flat, and then move to pivot to continue sharpening while resting on the face. Then I would continue through the remaining five Matrix stones doing the 10-15-ish passes per side, eliminating all pressure whatsoever when I reach the 2300 Matrix Stone. Is this reasonable in terms of stone usage?
Thank you very much for all of the help! It is greatly appreciated!
 
Nothing to bear with, your questions help me as well. You will be using the 80 more than you expect now that you will have it. As with all of these stones you can always lighten up on the pressure if you want shallower scratches, they still cut with no pressure at all since diamonds are soooo soooo sharp. Neither EP nor I clean our stones with alcohol or anything else. EP likes to dress theirs more often as they like that fresh dressed aggression and I keep them wet while in use and do a quick thumb scrub after I am done. What little darkness is on the stones doesn't affect them.

1) You will learn this as you get experience with them and dress them a few times. Learn what is too much pressure and just dress them when they get too slow, steel hardness, bevel size, and grit all affect how much pressure is right so keep this in mind. The stones will not reach their potential until they have been dressed a few times, the difference isn't big but it is noticeable. The 80 needs coarse sand or at least 36 grit, nothing finer. You want to wear the resin down to expose the diamond, nothing more. When done correctly you don't lose diamond, the stones don't lose any thickness. You shouldn't need to dress more than 15 seconds, more than a minute and you will start to lose thickness. If you try you can wear about .001" of stone thickness every minute on the finer grits, a little slower on the 80 and 250.

2) Rather light pressure, say 4-8 oz. What you want is for the abrasive to roll between the flat and stone which is why the flat needs some texture. A glossy surface lets the abrasive just skid on it and not roll. Let the abrasive do the work, too much pressure just grinds it up prematurely. Getting the right amount of water is very important, and it is a narrow window.

3) 60 grit doesn't work, the stone just won't reach the level of aggression that it is capable of, I have tried my best and failed. At best it might get halfway there. I suggest using a different flat for the 80 as it will be hard on it, it is just a different stone than the rest in every respect. The flat doesn't have to be flat either, mine is a rather lumpy ceramic tile, but the lumps are wearing down. Once you learn what "proper pressure" is you probably won't dress either the 80 or 250 once a year, if at all. If you find you need to dress them you are using too much pressure.

4) No, they are ready to go. Do make sure there are no shiny spots, if there are they do need to be dressed but that is a rare problem.

5) Short answer is yes. The 80 is a coarse stone and like most any very coarse stone can cause random nasty scratches so be careful. All of my knives are users so I don't worry and rarely have it happen, I guess because I don't care, but have heard of others getting bit. When I am removing metal and don't care about the apex I use back and forth strokes with "proper" pressure, which depends on steel hardness, bevel size, and grit. Personally I still use say 6 oz of pressure on the 4k unless I am going for a better polish. Zero pressure will leave a finer scratch pattern. Don't try to really refine the apex until you get to the 650, the 250 won't really get there so stick with the 10-15 strokes and move on. The 1100 still can remove a bit of metal so I don't do too much inspection to make sure I have completed the work with the last stone before moving on. If you get to the 4k, or whatever your last stone is, and you don't think the edge is right I would raise the angle a degree and take a few strokes. This will definitely make sure the last stone refines the apex. Do try finishing with a strop, I swear by it! The only knives I have that can handle diamond loaded strops is Maxamet and ceramic, it's just too abrasive for lesser materials. Bare leather is by far what I use most. I have destroyed good edges on 440c type steels with 1 micron loaded leather strops. Even though the angle was the same as the stone, and the thicknesses were the same, the bevel width shrank as I tried to polish out the last fine scratches, big whoops.

Of course, all of this is my opinion, which may/will change over time, and you may find you don't always agree with. Just keep what I have said in mind as you learn the peculiarities of these stones, they are different so don't be surprised if they want to be used differently than your other stones.
 
Getting the right amount of water is very important, and it is a narrow window.

I digress, but for flattening standard stones with SiC I haven't observed this. Too little water and the grit balls up like the sand did in your video; too much water and it gets messy but still flattens just fine, until the slurry runs off the flat at least. I end up using more water than you do as I don't like the grit clumping and it can lead to uneven stones. Is the narrow window you describe specific to the Diamond Matrix stones and/or 240 grit alumina or am I missing something?
 
I digress, but for flattening standard stones with SiC I haven't observed this. Too little water and the grit balls up like the sand did in your video; too much water and it gets messy but still flattens just fine, until the slurry runs off the flat at least. I end up using more water than you do as I don't like the grit clumping and it can lead to uneven stones. Is the narrow window you describe specific to the Diamond Matrix stones and/or 240 grit alumina or am I missing something?
I find that with too much water the abrasive washes around, and off the flat, instead of rolling around under the stone. Perhaps I am just pickier, or our flats behave differently, or I use less abrasive. I have dressed a few stones but not many, most were Shapton Glass that had never been dressed and did not work well until dressed. Come to think of it the abrasive to water content is the same no matter what I am lapping, not just stones but solid objects for flatness, with many different abrasives. Heavy clumping too dry, a little clumping works fine, washing off too wet, I like it just right, call me Goldilocks.
 
Nothing to bear with, your questions help me as well. You will be using the 80 more than you expect now that you will have it. As with all of these stones you can always lighten up on the pressure if you want shallower scratches, they still cut with no pressure at all since diamonds are soooo soooo sharp. Neither EP nor I clean our stones with alcohol or anything else. EP likes to dress theirs more often as they like that fresh dressed aggression and I keep them wet while in use and do a quick thumb scrub after I am done. What little darkness is on the stones doesn't affect them.

1) You will learn this as you get experience with them and dress them a few times. Learn what is too much pressure and just dress them when they get too slow, steel hardness, bevel size, and grit all affect how much pressure is right so keep this in mind. The stones will not reach their potential until they have been dressed a few times, the difference isn't big but it is noticeable. The 80 needs coarse sand or at least 36 grit, nothing finer. You want to wear the resin down to expose the diamond, nothing more. When done correctly you don't lose diamond, the stones don't lose any thickness. You shouldn't need to dress more than 15 seconds, more than a minute and you will start to lose thickness. If you try you can wear about .001" of stone thickness every minute on the finer grits, a little slower on the 80 and 250.

2) Rather light pressure, say 4-8 oz. What you want is for the abrasive to roll between the flat and stone which is why the flat needs some texture. A glossy surface lets the abrasive just skid on it and not roll. Let the abrasive do the work, too much pressure just grinds it up prematurely. Getting the right amount of water is very important, and it is a narrow window.

3) 60 grit doesn't work, the stone just won't reach the level of aggression that it is capable of, I have tried my best and failed. At best it might get halfway there. I suggest using a different flat for the 80 as it will be hard on it, it is just a different stone than the rest in every respect. The flat doesn't have to be flat either, mine is a rather lumpy ceramic tile, but the lumps are wearing down. Once you learn what "proper pressure" is you probably won't dress either the 80 or 250 once a year, if at all. If you find you need to dress them you are using too much pressure.

4) No, they are ready to go. Do make sure there are no shiny spots, if there are they do need to be dressed but that is a rare problem.

5) Short answer is yes. The 80 is a coarse stone and like most any very coarse stone can cause random nasty scratches so be careful. All of my knives are users so I don't worry and rarely have it happen, I guess because I don't care, but have heard of others getting bit. When I am removing metal and don't care about the apex I use back and forth strokes with "proper" pressure, which depends on steel hardness, bevel size, and grit. Personally I still use say 6 oz of pressure on the 4k unless I am going for a better polish. Zero pressure will leave a finer scratch pattern. Don't try to really refine the apex until you get to the 650, the 250 won't really get there so stick with the 10-15 strokes and move on. The 1100 still can remove a bit of metal so I don't do too much inspection to make sure I have completed the work with the last stone before moving on. If you get to the 4k, or whatever your last stone is, and you don't think the edge is right I would raise the angle a degree and take a few strokes. This will definitely make sure the last stone refines the apex. Do try finishing with a strop, I swear by it! The only knives I have that can handle diamond loaded strops is Maxamet and ceramic, it's just too abrasive for lesser materials. Bare leather is by far what I use most. I have destroyed good edges on 440c type steels with 1 micron loaded leather strops. Even though the angle was the same as the stone, and the thicknesses were the same, the bevel width shrank as I tried to polish out the last fine scratches, big whoops.

Of course, all of this is my opinion, which may/will change over time, and you may find you don't always agree with. Just keep what I have said in mind as you learn the peculiarities of these stones, they are different so don't be surprised if they want to be used differently than your other stones.

This is great. Thank you so much! I just picked up a Sienna XCEL strop for the EP. Looks like I have some learning to do now.

On a side note, down the road if EP sold some sort of a case for the Diamond Matrix stones, I would very much be interested in purchasing one. I am going to pick up something from Amazon, but a case that was a bit more form-fitting specific to EP stones and offered a little more protection from impact/falls/clanking into each other would be a nice bonus to protect the investment.
 
On a side note, down the road if EP sold some sort of a case for the Diamond Matrix stones, I would very much be interested in purchasing one. I am going to pick up something from Amazon, but a case that was a bit more form-fitting specific to EP stones and offered a little more protection from impact/falls/clanking into each other would be a nice bonus to protect the investment.
Done right that is a big project. It really needs to be plastic so it really needs to be molded, both for design and to keep the cost per unit down. How many stones should it hold? I think there should only be one size and if you need to hold more just get more cases. I REALLY need some for myself, I have piles of stones stacked around and REALLY need them to be better organized.
 
On a side note, down the road if EP sold some sort of a case for the Diamond Matrix stones, I would very much be interested in purchasing one.

https://www.gritomatic.com/products/plywood-storage-case-for-edge-pro-stones

D0_A8_D0_BA_D0_B0_D1_82_D1_83_D0_BB_D0_BA_D0_B0__D0_B4_D0_BB_D1_8F__D0_BA_D0_B0_D0_BC_D0_BD_D0_B5_D0_B9__D0_96_D1_83_D0_BA__D0_BD_D0_B0_6_2000x.jpg
 
If that was $5 like the KME case, or if it held 15 or 16 stones, again like the $5 KME case, I'd be all over it, but at $19 for 6 stones, it's way too high.

Well, maybe if I only had 6 stones.
 
If that was $5 like the KME case, or if it held 15 or 16 stones, again like the $5 KME case, I'd be all over it, but at $19 for 6 stones, it's way too high.

Well, maybe if I only had 6 stones.

6 slots = $19
9 slots = $25
12 slots = $31
9 and 12 will be in stock within 2-3 weeks
 
If that was $5 like the KME case, or if it held 15 or 16 stones, again like the $5 KME case, I'd be all over it, but at $19 for 6 stones, it's way too high.

You're really going to spend $364 on a set of stones, then balk at $19 for a nice case to store and protect them? o_O That's like buying a Ferrari and then putting regular gas in it to be frugal.

I just realized I'm not replying to pnsxyr but someone who parachuted into the thread. rpfarris, you probably don't have a $364 set of Diamond Matrix stones, but that's what I proposed that case for. (It's a set of six, by the way.) If you're poor like me just wrap your stock stones in paper towel and store them in a cardboard box of the right size; it works just fine.
 
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