Submersible Heating Element?

ddavelarsen

ddavelarsen

Joined
Dec 7, 2000
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Trying to find a heating element I can put in the bottom of a quench tank. I'd like to be able to hook up a rheostat to control its output, haven't a clue how to approach that either. Mostly looking for suggestions what kind of element to look for at this point. Any ideas?

I'm also planning to install a pump to circulate the oil, so welcome any suggestions along that line too. Would a garden fountain pump work for this application?
 
ddavelarsen said:
Trying to find a heating element I can put in the bottom of a quench tank. I'd like to be able to hook up a rheostat to control its output, haven't a clue how to approach that either. Mostly looking for suggestions what kind of element to look for at this point. Any ideas?

I'm also planning to install a pump to circulate the oil, so welcome any suggestions along that line too. Would a garden fountain pump work for this application?
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I see no one has addressed this question, for heavy duty circulation, you might want to try a submersible sump pump. I would think they would hold up longer as they are not usually made of plastic and have bearings and more power.
 
Dave,

I have two heat treat tanks made from old air compressor tanks. In the bottom of each I have installed hot water heating elements (the short ones). You can get them at Lowe's, Home Depot, or just about any hardware store.

Mine are not thermostatically controlled, just straight wired to 110 that I plug into an outlet. I have used them for about 2 years without replacing them. Usually takes around 5-7 minutes to get up to temp. Then I unplug them.

Hope this helps.

Robert
 
I would think that a garden fountain pump would be a little light duty for your needs.

There may be an issue with viscosity differences between water and the quench oil also? That would tend to overwork a light duty pump and lead to frustration.

You could probably cannibalize an old water heater and use the temperature control from it eh?? Replace the elements as needed and be in business.

Chuck
 
Use a 1500 Watt electric hot water heater element together with an electric hot water heater thermostat. Install the units exactly in the same manner as they are on an electric hotwater heater. Cut the hole to the same measurments as on the tank, install, fill and use.

Alternatively, get a hot water heater and cut it in half leaving the lower element and control intact. This would be a good set up if a large quench tank is needed.
 
Ace Hardware carries a unit that will do what you want. $50. No Thermostat. Basically a hot water heating element sealed to protect you and the wiring. Just drop it into the tank, plug it in and heat away.

Milt
 
Okay, hot water heater element it is. :thumbup: I'll try to find a new one at Lowes or Ace but that's not necessary. Not necessary either to have it be adjustable, since once the oil is at temp I'll be keeping it warm. ;)

I thought the fountain pump might be a little lightweight because of the viscosity issue. A sump pump, unless they're a whole lot smaller than I think, won't work due to the small space in my tank - a big, probably 3 gal, ammo can. I like the ammo can because of the gasketed lid. Not concerned about putting holes in the sides of it, I'm sure I can seal any just fine. Still need to do some research on this pump thing. I'll check into sump pump dimensions.

Any further ideas are sure welcome! Thanks for all the help.
 
Fred Rowe uses on of the bucket heaters like in v-6's link. I have also heard of people using a engine block heater that is magnetic and sticking underneath the tank. I called NAPA and they run around $50.00 also.
 
Your local plumbing supply will have a recirculating pump that is intended to recirculate the hot water in your house so you have instant hot water at all taps. It is smaller than a sump, the last one I had was about 4'' in diameter and about 2'' thick with a small motor attached.

Good Luck.
Jim
 
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