***Suggestion*** NEED a model to fit between the Taliwhacker and Rucki

[Father & Son Traditional Sharpening]

Taliwacker le is my absolute favorite SRKW model. No doubt.

Taliwhacker Limited Edition is also my favorite Swamp Rat, well I should quantify that as my favorite mid-size Rat.

My favorite little Rat is the Bandicoot/Inficoot, just an outstanding design that is very similar to the Taliwhacker.

Now, the only thing I need is something along the lines of a MEGA Taliwhacker at around 10-11" blade w/ the full MEGA treatment.

 

[Private Klink]

Interesting idea!

 

[SpyderPhreak]

.

 

[SpyderPhreak]

As the title states, we need a model to fit, size-wise, in between the Taliwhacker and Rucki. Something that would be B.O.B.-friendly and easy to carry in a shoulder rig. ~12" long blade, with a nice sweep, and a simple, lightweight handle (ResC perhaps?). Similar to the bottom blade pictured here:

View attachment 1322188

You could call it the Bobizashi, lol. It would sell like hotcakes, right now especially I think. So what do you guys say? @MaxRat @RATequila

Will this new Scrapyard sword offering fit this bill? I don't know, looks a little longer than I'd like, but I guess we'll see. Unfortunately it's a tanto design.

Name The Sword . . . . . Win The Sword!

This just in! Brother Dan posted this last night on the Scrap Yard Forum. We are going to run a thread over here as well! Good luck gang! Start Guessing Let's Drink! Jerry . "We need a name for the new SYKCO Sword! If we choose your name for the new SYKCO sword you will win the new SYKCO...

www.bladeforums.com

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

and here we are

 

[rpn]

I was tempted, but the specs are very close to the rucki which I had and sold. I'm more interested in a lighter weight/nimble blade too.

 

[ScoMa]

Would the 911/1111/1311 fit the bill? No personal experience with either, but they seem to fit most of these criteria. I think one of them is thinner than the others, too Maybe the 1111?

I sold off my Rucki due to similar preferences. Couldn’t pass on the dynamite, though. With all the R&D that went into the TNT-15 over so much time, it’s hard for me to believe that it won’t be an improvement upon the Rucki. I’m giving Dan the benefit of the doubt until i know.

Like SpyderPhreak, I also thought the TNT-15 blade was tanto style. It took me a while to realized that it’s an optical illusion cause by the CBT. The space between the edge of the blade and the CBT is fairly uniformed, except for the “corner” where the CBT changes it’s angle to the tip. Take another look, and you should see it now. It’s even more obvious in the picture of the coated version, as the CBT lines are subdued from influencing your eyes.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

Would the 911/1111/1311 fit the bill? No personal experience with either, but they seem to fit most of these criteria. I think one of them is thinner than the others, too Maybe the 1111?

I sold off my Rucki due to similar preferences. Couldn’t pass on the dynamite, though. With all the R&D that went into the TNT-15 over so much time, it’s hard for me to believe that it won’t be an improvement upon the Rucki. I’m giving Dan the benefit of the doubt until i know.

Like SpyderPhreak, I also thought the TNT-15 blade was tanto style. It took me a while to realized that it’s an optical illusion cause by the CBT. The space between the edge of the blade and the CBT is fairly uniformed, except for the “corner” where the CBT changes it’s angle to the tip. Take another look, and you should see it now. It’s even more obvious in the picture of the coated version, as the CBT lines are subdued from influencing your eyes.

I have the 1311.... It's Amazing. Boring to look at, but Damn....it Works!

I'll do a comparison.

 

[Twoody]

You mean, like a Rat Ansatsusha ("assassin" in Japanese) Tanto? A.K.A. the RATanto
That totally follows the Bussekin nameology for these japanese inspired designs (Waki, Kenshin, Butaniku, Scrapizashi, etc.)
I dig it.

Now thats clever !!!

 

[SpyderPhreak]

Would the 911/1111/1311 fit the bill? No personal experience with either, but they seem to fit most of these criteria. I think one of them is thinner than the others, too Maybe the 1111?

I sold off my Rucki due to similar preferences. Couldn’t pass on the dynamite, though. With all the R&D that went into the TNT-15 over so much time, it’s hard for me to believe that it won’t be an improvement upon the Rucki. I’m giving Dan the benefit of the doubt until i know.

Like SpyderPhreak, I also thought the TNT-15 blade was tanto style. It took me a while to realized that it’s an optical illusion cause by the CBT. The space between the edge of the blade and the CBT is fairly uniformed, except for the “corner” where the CBT changes it’s angle to the tip. Take another look, and you should see it now. It’s even more obvious in the picture of the coated version, as the CBT lines are subdued from influencing your eyes.

I've had all the -11 blades you mentioned, still have 1111 and 1311. Doesn't quite fit what I am wanting.

I have to say, I'm really liking the look of this new Res-C sword handle, especially the more I look at it. I'd like to think it was my idea, this thread is written proof of it, lol. I mentioned it in my OP. D dbusse

Now, a cut-down version of the TNT just might do for what I'm wanting. I'd still prefer a bit more sweep in the blade, but alas... This is pretty darn close:





Cropped closer, and rotated similarly. If saved to your device, you can flip back and forth.





Just trying to figure out how to get the work done. I have a wet diamond saw, and a large-diameter (~14") wet diamond grinding wheel, I might just try to do this mod myself...

 

[ScoMa]

That looks pretty cool. If you were to sharpen that new front angle, do you think the CBT would act kind of like serrations, or just be weird on the edge?

 

[lmcq784]

It would only serrate the edge if he did single-bevel.

If he chopped it at the opposite angle, it'll turn the Japanese-inspired wakizashi into a Viking Seax!

 

[PeteyTwoPointOne]

That looks pretty cool. If you were to sharpen that new front angle, do you think the CBT would act kind of like serrations, or just be weird on the edge?

In my mind's eye I envision it'd look close to this vvv...the edge would be straight and the CBT's would blend in, but where the "dips" are it'd be pretty thin behind the edge:

 

[SpyderPhreak]

That looks pretty cool. If you were to sharpen that new front angle, do you think the CBT would act kind of like serrations, or just be weird on the edge?

No, they'll be a little way back from the edge given they're in a thicker area of the primary grind.

It would only serrate the edge if he did single-bevel.

If he chopped it at the opposite angle, it'll turn the Japanese-inspired wakizashi into a Viking Seax!

It would be a pretty fine point if I did it that way. The bevel would be sharpened with what I have in mind.

In my mind's eye I envision it'd look close to this vvv...the edge would be straight and the CBT's would blend in, but where the "dips" are it'd be pretty thin behind the edge:

Exactly like this. Except I don't think the CBT ridges will go all the way to the edge, as they're further up the primary grind in a thicker area. So I think the "mountains" will sit back from the edge a bit.

 

[elof_alv]

I would not try this with a dimond saw or grinding wheel!
Those things are desiged for higher hardness material that doesn't burn...
My guess would be that if you try with the grinding wheel, you'd be lucky if you end up with someting Taliwhacker size...
The saw... make sure that you wear at least a fully enclosed bike helmet...

 

[SpyderPhreak]

I would not try this with a dimond saw or grinding wheel!
Those things are desiged for higher hardness material that doesn't burn...
My guess would be that if you try with the grinding wheel, you'd be lucky if you end up with someting Taliwhacker size...
The saw... make sure that you wear at least a fully enclosed bike helmet...

Elof, I appreciate your concern my friend! However, these aren't your standard, run-of-the-mill garage tools I'm talking about using here. They're NOT a giant chop saw and a bench grinder running at 10,000,000 RPM, lol...

Note, earlier I said these were wet tools. The saw is like a tile saw on steroids. It's a flooded table (probably holds around 15 gallons of water, depending on the size of the work piece) and the thin saw blade is constantly flooded with water where it's not submerged. It's used for cleanly and precisely cutting all sorts of materials. I've used it for steel and aluminum bar stock and angle, carbon and glass composites, tile, and glass. It can cut materials up to 4" thick, and 24" long. It would handle this job with ease...

The grinding wheel was originally made for the optical industry. The wheel is ~14" in diameter, ~2" wide, and mostly made of some kind of a bronze alloy. The outer ~3/16" is solid bonded diamond, approximately 600 grit. The wheel sits in a ~5-gallon water trough almost halfway submerged, and its speed is fully adjustable from a crawl up to about 600 RPM. Much faster than that and water is going everywhere.

The saw cuts somewhat automatically once you have it set up. The wheel is fully manual. PPE should be worn, but maybe not quite to the level you mentioned.