Super Quenched Rail Road spike knife!

Christopher Lewis

Wackin Steel Co.
Joined
Aug 24, 2020
Messages
15
I have quenched this blade at non magnetic temperature, by dipping it in a bucket of water and dish soap. The file test showed what I believe to be an increase in hardness. I understand that high carbon steel railroad spikes are not held to the same standards as high carbon knife steel, and that this steel does not have enough carbon to be in the highest performance categories of blades. I am curious of Yall's opinion about if this hardening can be improved, and what exactly is happening when I quench the blade in my dish soap and water mixture?

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That's a fun piece.
A low-carbon piece of steel can only get so hard (not very, in most cases). I wouldn't spend more time trying to optimize heat treat on steel that will likely never get harder than a cheap hammer at best. I made a rail spike into a trowel instead of a knife.

Order some 1084 or 80CrV2 in whatever shape you want to start with and quench it in warm canola oil (soapy water will likely crack it). Very inexpensive and very hardenable. If it's recycling that appeals to you, find some auto springs - coil or flat (the cleaner the better). Cut off a bit with an angle-grinder and go to town. They tend to harden really well in canola too.
 
That's a fun piece.
A low-carbon piece of steel can only get so hard (not very, in most cases). I wouldn't spend more time trying to optimize heat treat on steel that will likely never get harder than a cheap hammer at best. I made a rail spike into a trowel instead of a knife.

Order some 1084 or 80CrV2 in whatever shape you want to start with and quench it in warm canola oil (soapy water will likely crack it). Very inexpensive and very hardenable. If it's recycling that appeals to you, find some auto springs - coil or flat (the cleaner the better). Cut off a bit with an angle-grinder and go to town. They tend to harden really well in canola too.

Thank you for the reply. Going to try this design with some leaf spring, trick is going to be forging down to square so i can draw it out into a round rod shape.
 
Hope you don't get offended but the twisted telephone cord design of the handle makes me want to throw a tantrum.
 
A possible improvement could be made by cryo- deep cold treatment. If you use dry ice in acetone it will not cost much. More economical to do several blades at once. I use a small ice chest. But as others suggest, might not be a great idea not put so much effort into steel that is not good for knives to begin with. But if you are just playing around learning. maybe develop a standard, a meaningful reference point to compare improvements to. I personally like the 'brass rod test.' I guess you can look that up. I use brazing rod. You sharpen to a known sharpness, I use 600 grit belt. Not super sharp, it's just a rough fast test on a unfinished blade. Cut paper, swipe the brass rod like you are trying to cut it, count how many times you can swipe rod and still cut paper. Most factor knives go 30 to 50 swipes. An ok standard for custom is 200. 400 is possible. This gives you a comparison when you work on this knife and want to compare to future work or other blades. There are flex tests, brittle tests, but this would get you started. Salt water would be better than soap water. Good high carbon will warp or crack unless you know what you are doing. Oils are much better. But yes, depends on kind of steel you choose. A W mark on steel means a water quench. I do not work with the W series steels much. Moving up from a spike, I'd go next to the old reliable 1084 just good carbon does not cost a lot, and great knives get made from this. You could spend years just learning about 1085. Good luck!!!
 
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