Survive! knives

Lost Cosmonaut · Jul 9, 2014

Hopefully that means mine should be coming soon too! I picked up a customized SK4 sheath that's supposed to be here in the next few days as well.

B34NS · Jul 9, 2014

Rasco said:
Only sign it's a second that I can really see is fact that the spine has a bunch of little "striations" or lines that I guess weren't ground out fully. In my opinion, a very minor flaw.

Looks great! Those marks are supposed to be there. Guy's philosophy of keeping the laser marks is to keep the aesthetic tool focused.

Rasco · Jul 9, 2014

For what it's worth, I got the email on Monday, and the knife was here on Wednesday, so the shipping is pretty fast.

Rasco · Jul 9, 2014

B34NS said:
Looks great! Those marks are supposed to be there. Guy's philosophy of keeping the aesthetic tool focused.

Fair enough! I'll have to double check, but I don't think they were present, or at least, not nearly as pronounced on my GSO-10.
Again, not even an issue. This is the 4.1 I wanted and I'm about as happy as can be.

Lozza · Jul 9, 2014

Rasco said:
Only sign it's a second that I can really see is fact that the spine has a bunch of little "striations" or lines that I guess weren't ground out fully. In my opinion, a very minor flaw.

If that makes it a second perhaps my GSO 5.1 should have been a second.........

FTR-14c · Jul 9, 2014

Only sign it's a second that I can really see is fact that the spine has a bunch of little "striations" or lines that I guess weren't ground out fully. In my opinion said:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/Rasc0/IMG_20140709_165523626_HDR_zpslsfmbeov.jpg[/IMG]

All the Survive knives have those lines. They were left on the spine to remind the user that the knives are meant to be worked.
The Black and Red looks pretty good. Nice score!

Rasco · Jul 9, 2014

Ok guys, anyone else wanna get it out of their system?

I'll check my GSO-10 and compare. If it's that different, I will post pics.

B34NS · Jul 9, 2014

Rasco said:
Ok guys, anyone else wanna get it out of their system?

I'll check my GSO-10 and compare. If it's that different, I will post pics.

GSO 10's including 2nds are polished spines. The rest of the GSO line has the laser cut marks.

Rasco · Jul 9, 2014

Thank you! Hence why I thought it was different.
Thanks to the half dozen people who set me straight on this little design feature.

Revolverrodger · Jul 9, 2014

GSO 6 !
Enough said

FTR-14c · Jul 9, 2014

I went with the "Red & Black" scales, sight unseen. The red is a little darker than I had imagined, but still, pretty nice.

The Micarta looks like it was oiled before shipping. If you wash it with dish soap and let it dry for a few seconds it will reveal its natural color.
It should be much lighter, look completely different and you may like it better. You can always oil it back up if you prefer the dark look.
Post some pics if you decide to scrub it. I'd like to see the results.

FTR-14c · Jul 9, 2014

B34NS said:
GSO 10's including 2nds are polished spines. The rest of the GSO line has the laser cut marks.

My first run GSO 10 has the marks.
They must have smoothed them after that.

Rasco · Jul 9, 2014

FTR-14c said:
The Micarta looks like it was oiled before shipping. If you wash it with dish soap and let it dry for a few seconds it will reveal its natural color.
It should be much lighter, look completely different and you may like it better. You can always oil it back up if you prefer the dark look.
Post some pics if you decide to scrub it. I'd like to see the results.

thanks for the tip!
I believe the handle scales are G10, not micarta. Your advice still apply?

FTR-14c · Jul 9, 2014

I thought they might be G-10 but they still look oiled.

Its definitely worth a try, if they are oiled they will get lighter.

FFK · Jul 9, 2014

Survive knife...?.......Ok......blade (56-58RC)from S5, Caldie, A8, D2, 1095, aka a knife you can sharpen on concrete or a rock(not too much vanadium) if you had to. Total length 9" or more, .200"-.250" thick, field craft type grind. G10 or micarta with an Gerber LMF handle shape. In a hurry just get an ESSE 6.

Lozza · Jul 10, 2014

FFK said:
Survive knife...?.......Ok......blade (56-58RC)from S5, Caldie, A8, D2, 1095, aka a knife you can sharpen on concrete or a rock(not too much vanadium) if you had to. Total length 9" or more, .200"-.250" thick, field craft type grind. G10 or micarta with an Gerber LMF handle shape. In a hurry just get an ESSE 6.

What are you on about?!?!?! So a S!K isn't suited for a survival knife? Only a basic cheap steel knife with a LMF handle is? <jerkit is reserved for W&C>

I carried a LMF in service for a while, good knife, nothing fantastic. I had a heap of ESEE blades, nice yet I was constantly having the clean the edges up.

The CPM20cv is a fantastic steel. People that say knifes with steels that can't be sharped on a rock are no good as a survival knife are idiotic, yep I said it.

A survival situation is a random unpredicted situation, I sure would not be complaining about what blade I was caring. As in one of my previous posts I have used my GSO 5.1 constantly and hard, touched the edge up once on a 4" Fallkniven Diamond & Ceramic Stone while in the bush and it wasn't hard to sharpen and took 2 minutes.

Troll elsewhere.............. :distant:

knife chop · Jul 10, 2014

Lozza said:
What are you on about?!?!?! So a S!K isn't suited for a survival knife? Only a basic cheap steel knife with a LMF handle is? :jerkit:

I carried a LMF in service for a while, good knife, nothing fantastic. I had a heap of ESEE blades, nice yet I was constantly having the clean the edges up.

The CPM20cv is a fantastic steel. People that say knifes with steels that can't be sharped on a rock are no good as a survival knife are idiotic, yep I said it. A survival situation is a random unpredicted situation, I sure would not be complaining about what blade I was caring. As in one of my previous posts I have used my GSO 5.1 constantly and hard, touched the edge up once on a 4" Fallkniven Diamond & Ceramic Stone while in the bush and it wasn't hard to sharpen and took 2 minutes.

Troll elsewhere.............. :distant:

When ignorant folks want to advertise their ignorance, you don’t really have to do anything, you just let them talk.

Lost Cosmonaut · Jul 10, 2014

FFK has a folder he'd like to talk to you all about with terrible spelling and grammar, poking fun at all the competition while not providing any real data despite being asked to do so repeatedly.

In other words, don't feed the troll.

The Mastiff · Jul 10, 2014

I agree with the carrying a synthetic stone along with the knife in the sheath but some of those steels look good and I'd like to try them. Not A8, but A8(mod). S5, and S1. Caldie is one I have no knowledge of in knife use. It looks ok but I prefer the 3V composition and it's attributes. If you are talking about tough to sharpen steels and using stones from the creek D2 isn't one that will cooperate very much. It can be a cast iron bi#@h to sharpen without synthetics. Even 1095 at rc 61 or higher can get pretty stubborn especially at rc 64-65. Most people are used to it from rc 52 up to 58 with rc 59 or higher being rare. It can act like a different steel depending on the heat treat. If I truly wanted something to sharpen on a flat rock I'd go with Swiss army knife or Douk Douk. That is sweet to sharpen. If you pay attention you can hear the burr breaking off cleanly, easily. The Black Cat K55 is another easy to sharpen steel, as is the Case CV line. Great steel but run pretty soft. Fun to sharpen.

Joe

Morrow · Jul 10, 2014

Let's stay on topic and not make other members the topic of discussion even if they invite it. There is an ignore function available if you don't want to see someone's posts.

Survive! knives

Don't make this weird