Swamp Cooler Questions

Bruceter

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Does anyone here have any ideas/hints on how to increase the efficiency of a swamp cooler? It has been hot here for the past three weeks (90+ days) and my cooler is barely keeping the inside 20 degrees cooler than the outside temp. I did a little checking at Home Depot and it looks like they have three sizes of coolers and mine is the smallest one they have. The chart I looked at says that for my square footage and where I live, the small one is what they recomend.

Would adding a pump with a higher flow rate help? What kind of pads do you like? I am currently using some synthetic pads that are light blue and look like a scotch-brite pad, sort of a non-woven material. Are the jute type pads better? I thought I heard someone say they put two layers of pad in each holder, any thoughts on that?

TIA

Bruceter
 
I live over the mountains in Utah. We've been running high nineties and 100+ and I can keep it in the mid seventies. A bit better than you.

I too use the blue pads. They can be reused a few years though their efficiency decreases a bit.

The best pads are the aspen pads. But they're also the messiest. They'll give you a few more degrees of coolness. They only last one season. If you're going to go with aspen, I recommend one of those water purge systems to keep your system clean and pumping well. It also cuts down on the mineral build up on the pads maintaining efficiency.

I run a heavier pump than stated. I think it helps a bit.

When I bought my house, it had a three wall swamper with the fourth side having the ducting to the house. I switched that out to a 4 wall design, bottom vented, and I think that helped.

The other thing is the motor. They go bad surprisingly quickly. On high, it self limits to low because of thermal protection. The unit has quickly worn to where it overheats on high. Mine's doing that right now. And the low isn't as good as when it was new. But even on low, I'm keeping the temps I mention at the start. When it's just starting to go bad, you'll sometimes get a brief period on high before it thermally limits itself.

An attic fan is a worthwhile addition. This is just a thermostatically controlled fan to get the heat out of your attic. Granted, when it's 100 outside, it's still 100 inside the attic, but that's much better than 160 it could otherwise be. We had one installed and found it to be helpful.

Good technique helps too. In the PM and AM, when it's cool, purge the house as much as possible. Open windows, run ceiling fans (and the swamp, maybe on vent). Before I go to bed, I close things up more for security. But I open the bedroom windows and run a ceiling fan on low all night The core of my house often hits 80 or more overnight, but the bedrooms hold low seventies or less depending on the night. In the AM, repeat the process to cool the house as much as possible. Run the pump only to wet the pads before turning on the fan if you turn it on during the heat of the day. That avoids an initial high heat blast of air.

Practice with different windows open and doors closed to get the kind of airflow in the rooms you're occupying. During the day, I close off the bedroom doors. They're not occupied or only briefly and that helps direct cool air where it's needed. When I'm cooking, I'll turn on my stove hood (vents outdoors) to suck out the heat and pull cool air into the kitchen. A hood that vents back into the kitchen probably won't help.

Phil
 
Thanks for the replies!

I do have an attic fan on a thermostat, I put it in last year and it helps.
My motor is still fine and I do all my own maintenance, there is not too much to them.

I think I'll look into a larger pump, I think that with the heat here and the low humidity the pads aren't staying wet enough.

Bruceter
 
I ran synthetic pads last year and was NOT pleased with their performance. This year I replaced the synthetics with aspen and double padded the unit. When I got home from work today, it was 103F outside with 15% humidity and my house was 73F inside. I don't think I'll be using synthetic pads anymore.
 
I have run both types the 3 sided and the newer style with a single 12” pad with angled slots in it. The 12 “pad seemed to get less moisture in the house but the 3 sided one seemed to get colder.


I just looked up Denver and it said 16% humidity with a low of 68 with those conditions a good swap cooler should freeze you out. I would check you water flow and make sure the pads are getting wet evenly.

I second having the window cracked, one has to be open for a cooler to work properly. I actually adjusted my window by how far away from the cooler they were. Closer to the cooler they were barely cracked and at the far end of the house they were open several inches. I did a very scientific test and put my hand in front of the space outside to see how much airflow was coming out. I tried to even out the flow in the rooms I routinely used. It seemed to work.

The house I used to rent was my first experience with a swap cooler. The house was adobe and close to 100 years old. At night the cooler would blow air out as cold as 54 degree and during the day the place would stay about 65 until the monsoons.
 
Thanks for the input,

I do have the venting of the house figured out, one of the things I like about the swamp cooler is that you have to have the windows open.

I'm thinking that part of my problem is the unit is a little undersized. I am going to get some aspen pads and double them up to see if that helps. I think I'll climb up on the roof tomorrow and see how wet the pads look. I might try a larger pump also.


Thanks for all the help.

Bruceter
 
Using the aspen pads should help. Another, maybe more important, factor is the humidity. If you're having high humidity as well as high temps, the swamp cooler won't work as well because there's too much water in the air already for the cooler pads to evaporate and cool efficiently. Sadly, there's nothing you can do about that but wait.
 
You might also check to make sure the water line to the swamp cooler doesn't run across the hot roof and cause the water to get hot before it gets to the unit. Hot water going across the pads won't remove as much heat from the air as cool water does.
 
Well,

Here in Denver we consider 20% to be high humidity.
The water line come out of the attic right under the cooler so that shouldn't be a problem.

I am going to check to see that the pump is pumping properly and change to the aspen pads and give that a try.

One thing that makes our house warm is that is an 80 year old brick house with no insulation in the walls. It's just two layers of brick with a small air space between them and a layer of plaster on the inside. I think that with the run of 90+ degree days that we have had here, the bricks heat up during the day and don't cool off at night. Last night I was tempted to spray the bricks down with the hose.

Bruceter
 
You highlanders have got it easy. Down here at 600', about a mile from the river, it was 106 degrees with 85% humidity. All a swamper does down here is make it 90 degrees and 105% humdity in the house. Thank goodness for the geothermal heat pump.
 
Well,

Here in Denver we consider 20% to be high humidity.
The water line come out of the attic right under the cooler so that shouldn't be a problem.

I am going to check to see that the pump is pumping properly and change to the aspen pads and give that a try.

One thing that makes our house warm is that is an 80 year old brick house with no insulation in the walls. It's just two layers of brick with a small air space between them and a layer of plaster on the inside. I think that with the run of 90+ degree days that we have had here, the bricks heat up during the day and don't cool off at night. Last night I was tempted to spray the bricks down with the hose.

Bruceter

Yeah, when we lived in Douglas County 20% was high humidity. When we lived in St. Louis, MO it was quite dry. We had a downdraft swamp cooler in CO and it cooled the whole 1700 sq ft house. putting in a larger capacity water pump will help some. You may want to check with an insulation contractor and have some foam shot into that air space between the brick walls. That will save you piles of $$ in heating and cooling both. Hope this helps.
 
I like central AC myself, freeze the house if you give it enough time.
 
Using the aspen pads should help. Another, maybe more important, factor is the humidity. If you're having high humidity as well as high temps, the swamp cooler won't work as well because there's too much water in the air already for the cooler pads to evaporate and cool efficiently. Sadly, there's nothing you can do about that but wait.

Follow the advice of the Arizonan. Nobody knows more about swamp coolers, how to make them work their best, and how much they suck this time of year, than we do.:D

Even this time of the year, it shouldn't be too humid in the Front Range, Colorado. I lived in Loveland for 6 years, and the humidity never got close to what it's like here during monsoon season. A swamp cooler should work just fine there. But, there are limits to evaporative cooling's abilities. You really can't expect it to perform like AC does; you'll never feel that icy blast entering your house like you do when you walk into your local bank branch. Do what you can to maximize your swamp cooler, and enjoy your lower power bills instead of having stiff nipples.
 
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