Swivel Knife suggestions?

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
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I could use some help fellas. I am just getting into carving and tooling and could use some help with a swivel knife purchase.

I know these are highly subjective and dependant on the person - so - I could use some good direction.

What, in your mind, is the best bang for the buck mid level type of swivel knife that would be great to get better with?

I own two simple craft tool knives that were gifted to me - and I enjoy the process some. I would like to get a good knife that would help me get better (or at least not frustrate me).


What would you buy given my suggestions?


Of much less importance... do any of you all possibly have any knives sitting about you could part with - or could let me borrow if it is just getting dusty to see what I like?

Thanks for all of your continued help.

TF
 
All four or five of mine are Craftool type knives, a couple with inexpensive blades and one with a high carbon angled filigree blade and I can tell you that a good blade with make life a lot easier. The hollow ground 1/4" blade is my next purchase.

I highly suggest the adjustable tube if you dont have one, that ability to make the tool longer or shorter is a great little feature.

I always pad the finger rest on mine, either foam or sheepskin, both work well. Oil the swivel as well, it makes a difference.

I'm sure that the big buck knives would make life easier, and improve things immensely, but I make do with what I have. :)

One thing I've always wondered, what swivel knife does Sandy use? I'd get one like his just because.... :D
 
Dwayne - THANKS.

Honestly - I would like Sandy to hold the Swivel knife I chose, Chuck to hold my mallet, Gary Grayley to hold my lacing prongs, and Paul to hold my stitching needles - hoping I can get some of the mojo off them.

I was just talking to Stan Buzek about the guys on this forum - we both agreed it is a great bunch of dudes to be around.

Well... except for Rayban. He is shady. ;)


TF
 
Tal, your perfect swivel knife is fifty per cent luck and fifty percent fit, and fifty percent blade choice. I have six or seven ranging from a $1.50 version from Tandy back in about 1955 to a couple of $135.00 Robert Beards about ten years old now. The expensive knives are definitely superior. Smoother swivel action by far. Even the blades for them cost an additional $35 over the price of the barrel. Buy the best you can afford now and upgrade from there as you progress in ability.

The big key is practice, practice, practice, and even the most expensive knife does not come with experience. Starting out , I would recommend a good quality 3/8" straight blade. Much easier to control than the 1/4" and certainly better for a beginner than the angled filigree blades. Hollow ground is okay, but does not have any particular advantage IN MY OPINION. Others may say different. Adjustable barrels are a plus considering the most comfortable fit to your hand. Keep the blade very sharp and strop it often. Disappointment and jump up and down happiness will come in equal doses. (most of the time in the same project to begin with.)

I would also recommend you get a couple of Al Stohlman books on carving and tooling. Tandy carries a large selection and they are excellent. That's how I learned, self taught, in the beginning, and I still refer to them from time to time as a refresher.

Good Luck

Paul

Edit to add: Left to right in photo below Robert Beard 3/8" straight blade, Robert Beard 1/4" straight blade, The little $1.50 antique carrying my nylon speed beveler, and a couple of relatively inexpensive models with 1/16" and 1/8" beader blades for cutting borders, quilts etc. That first 3/8" is my "go to" choice for carving.
 
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Barry King has great swivel knives for reasonable prices. Swivel knife comes with one blade for $45. extra blades are $15. Just google Barry King Tools if you want to check them out.
 
The knives are important but in my limited experience I have found that the proper casing of the leather and sharpness of the blade are the two biggest concerns to have initially.

Oh and angle of your cut, learning to keep the blade straight up and down while cutting curves takes a little bit or atleast did for me.

Another thing that kind of helped a tad is using some saddle soap in my spray bottle, I use this to case the leather and it helps just a touch with blade drag (which the above mentioned factors should get rid of for the most part).
 
Great fella's - thanks.

Paul - I have a knife that fits the bill you mention. It was gifted to me and I sharpened it. I will simply start there and at least have a informed opinion when I check out my next one if I need to go bigger.

THanks,

TF
 
I agree with Paul . I have very good knives but you cant beat LOTS of practice. I don't do to many carved rigs because of my hands but every now and then I still like to see if I can do it. :) KT
 
Tal, practice and experience are both found in the same place. Sometimes the cost is high and other times it's dirt cheap. The bad thing is you can only get so much per day, but the bright side is you can store it up as you get it and one day you'll have a lot!:D;)

Paul
 
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