sword sharpening

Khukuri Monster

Khukuri Monster

Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
373
With all the sword deals going around lately, I was hoping someone would have some advice on how to sharpen a sword. I don't (unfortunately) have a Bura sword, but I have an Angus Trim EKS (http://store.swordforum.com/angustrim/1501.php). Still nice, but in my defense, I bought it before I knew about HI.

It's not very sharp, though, and I would like to sharpen it. I am afraid to use my belt grinder since it is so thin in cross section, so I feel like this would be a bad idea. Plus I would be more likely to screw up using a power tool. Any advice?
 
When I sharpened my HI Everest Katana I had no access to any power tools. I simply took a long grooved butcher's steel down the edge until it was toothy, then i followed it up with worn out steel to smooth the bur a bit, then I used a chakma to smooth it out further. Took a long time, but when all you have is what you have, then that's all you can do:) It shaves but is not razor sharp. However, my sword technique is bad (read: I have no freakin' clue what i'm doing) so i really don't need a razor sharp sword. If i ever had to use my kat for personal protection I think it would do the job. My "pointy part goes in his belly, not-dull side goes against his soft parts" style would work. DannyInJapan will probably have more info on sharpening a sword. He has that monster sword that i'm sure he takes care of regularly. good luck sharpening your sword.

Jake
 
Dude,
I recommend that you not even try to sharpen that sword unless you really need to. I wouldnt even try to sharpen my own. I keep it clean, but I leave sharpening to the experts.
too much damage $$$ can happen too fast for me to even consider it.
 
Diamond hones come in differerent grit values. A coarse one will cut very fast and could mess up the edge.

My Al Massey leafblade came sharp, and I wouldn't touch a stone to it. It has a 23" blade and weighs almost 2 pounds - almost as much as your much longer Atrim blade. It is 28" overall, and looks like Sting.

I also have a Kris Cutlery wakizashi, and it didn't come sharp enough. I used a large fine India stone followed by a white hard Arkansas. Rather than laying the sword in place, I just sharpened a section of the blade at a time, as if it were a knife blade. When I ordered the wak, I asked Cecil how he recommended sharpening it, and he suggested using sandpaper fastened down to wood.
 
that's a good lookin' sword, KM! :cool:


Personally, I'd go ahead and sharpen it on the belt. Start with either a worn out 800 grit belt (and load it with compound), or buy a new trizact - I think they go up to 1200, or 1600....can't remember.

Then, you don't have to worry about taking too much off too quickly.

The only concerns are speed and grinding technique.


How do you stand when you grind and sharpen?

I stand off to one side and use a "sawing" motion (body perpendicular to grinder).....vs. standing in front of the grinder, facing it.

I've had no problems using this technique on swords. I just keep one had on the blade holding it to the belt, and the other sliding the sword forward and the back - slowly and lightly and with as much control/bracing/etc. as I can muster.

I think Nasty sharpened his katana on his lil' Delta....maybe he'll chime in with some tips.


All else fails....practice on a scrap piece of 1x2 to get the technique down pat.
 
I've sharpened my MRI Ravenna sword not so much to sharpen it but to even it's edges up. If it had been any worse it would have been a Flamberge! I should have let someone even the edges with a belt sander. When you double edge a 45" blade that adds up to 90 inches to sharpen.

Being able to unsheathe the blade and place the tip on the floor and rest my nose on it's pommel does make up for some of the hassle, though! :D :D :D :p
 
You've got it Dan...but I will add that it helps me greatly to do some positioning dry runs with the grinder off to get the right foot and arm position...sort of mental imagery of what I am trying to do.

Oh...stop before you do more harm than good.
 
I haven't tried sharpening the sword yet, but I have a really worn out 800 grit belt. What is the purpose of putting the compound on there? Does the compound help it cut? I tried using the belt with compound to sharpen some other knives, though, and it seemed to work much more effectively.
 
You need not have a sword be razor sharp in order to cut - just sharp enough to cut cleanly through paper is good enough, any more and you might get an edge which is too thin to withstand impact. I own an EBS by Atrim, English Bastard Sword, and it is remarkably similar to the EKS except my grip is of the stepped design. The edge on that is just sharp enough to cut through paper..

attachment.php
 
It's so easy to get a razor sharp durable edge using convex geometry, why not have it all? :)
 
I'd just tape a bunch of razor blades to the edge. :rolleyes:

Nice sword though. Will they sell me one if I'm not an English bastard? :)

I thought the Atrim swords came pre sharpened unless you specify not to sharpen em'. :confused:
 
I would either look at www.allsaintsblades.com (this is where Angus sells most of his swords now) or ask him directly at swordforum.com (no www.)

A swords cutting ability depends more on the user than the sword. So a rusted dull sword that used to be sharp could cut just as well as a freshly sharpened sword.

And please dont sharpen it to razor sharp. Razors should be razor sharp. Swords should be sword sharp. There is actually a defenition of "sword sharp".

Check out these threads:

http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27841&highlight=sword+AND+sharp

http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36365&highlight=sword+AND+sharp
 
BruiseLeee said:
I'd just tape a bunch of razor blades to the edge. :rolleyes:

Nice sword though. Will they sell me one if I'm not an English bastard? :)

I thought the Atrim swords came pre sharpened unless you specify not to sharpen em'. :confused:
Click to expand...

You thinking about a Wilkinson?
 
Respectfully...I disagree. While historically correct grinding techniques (flat ground) may indeed require a dull (less than what I use) edge, I see no reason that a properly done convex edge would not hold up at least as well under any circumstances. A proper convex edge is *neither* a thin nor delicate edge. It has more supporting material than any other sharpening method and has the added advantage of being easily maintained in the field.

I agree to disagree...politely.
 
Since you didn't quote anyone I will respond assuming you are refering to my post Nasty with regards to disagreeing.

I believe that historically convex, concave, and flat edges were all used. So no one grind was right or wrong.

The reasoning behind not puting a razor edge on a sword isn't just because they dont need to be, it is also for safety. It is too easy for the one person in the room who respects a sword to step out for just a moment and a guest who saw a discovery channel special to take a sword off of its stand or display case and hurt himself with it.

I am not saying that a convex grind is thin or delicate (just the opposite), but a razor sharp edge (on any grind) will take damage easier than a sword sharp edge.

My advice on sharpening would be to keep whatever shape the bevels already have and to just touch them up.
 
yoippari said:
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36365&highlight=sword+AND+sharp
Click to expand...
This link is exceptional reading and the link to NetSwords in one of the posts is very interesting as well.:D I have heard this for years, not sharpening swords to razor sharpness, and generally concur although methinks sometimes a razor sharp sword properly sharpened could be a real asset in certain applications. On the khukuri side the Kobra could/would fall into this area but would have limited use instead of general use.
 
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