Synthetic Strop

[Barmaley]

I always felt intimidated by my leather and denim strops. On several occasions I got rounded edge, I never new exactly when to add compound etc. I found to my satisfaction that it is very easy to strop on a piece of paper loaded with compound on a hard surface (I use granite or a very flat ceramic tile). But than brought an Idea that it is not exactly stopping but most likely honing or even sharpening since I definitely remove metal from my knives. It brings several questions: why nobody in the 21 century can not develop some man made material to replace leather as they did with natural whetstones? Then what is exactly stopping where is the border line between stropping and sharpening? And finally: do I need to strop if I will get a stone with very high grid, can it replace a leather strop?

 

[P_A_S_1]

I wrap copy paper around a fine bench stone and load it with green compound and prefer the results I get versus when I used wood or leather.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Most definitions found online of 'stropping' refer to 'sharpening on a leather strap'. The word 'strop' itself was originally 'strap'. And most of the definitions refer to barbers' razors being most-often 'stropped' - some of those references go back as far as the early 18th century (1702) at least. Some of the definitions also refer to the application of some type of abrasive compound to the strop, to enhance sharpness and/or polish.

By that standard, I don't think there's a clear distinction between just 'stropping' and 'honing' or 'sharpening'. I associate 'stropping' more with the combination of two things: (1) the edge-trailing technique itself and (2) the usual implication that it's done as the final step in sharpening. I don't really associate it with a particular material used for the job, like leather.

One can strop on almost anything, material-wise. If it produces a noticeable improvement in sharpness, that's all that matters. Sometimes the bare material is enough for that, if it's able to burnish or align a very thin, fine edge, as done on a barber's bare leather strop. But if additional thinning or polish is desired, some compound can be utilized for that.

And I'm a believer that one doesn't actually need a strop to thoroughly refine an edge. I've drifted toward using a medium or fine ceramic rod in lieu of stropping, in my preferences for finishing an edge. I feel it leaves a crisper bite in the edge that I like, while reducing burrs to a point where they're insignificant. So, I believe you can replace a strop with a suitable stone or hone of your preference. Beyond that, if I 'strop' on anything at all, it's most often just a quick pass or two on my jeans or on a bare leather belt. I do that mainly just to clean up the residue & debris left clinging along the edge by the sharpening process.

 

[Barmaley]

Very informative writing David, thank you very much! The perspective that stropping is just the last step in sharpening in an insightful view on the issue. From your explanation I also concluded that a very high grit whetstone can furnish a perfect edge such that a leather strop could not improve it further. Is it correct? What grit should it be?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Very informative writing David, thank you very much! The perspective that stropping is just the last step in sharpening in an insightful view on the issue. From your explanation I also concluded that a very high grit whetstone can furnish a perfect edge such that a leather strop could not improve it further. Is it correct? What grit should it be?

Best thing is to experiment with high-grit stones of your choice. A lot depends on how much polish you want, or if you like to retain some toothy bite in the edge. I use a medium or fine ceramic (on the corners of triangular rods) for my purposes. Most of what I'm using it for is for deburring instead of polishing. Using the ceramic to apply a very, very minimal microbevel works well for that and will also narrow the apex width in the process. That makes for a more aggressive bite in the edge and also helps stabilize the edge. By a 'minimal' microbevel, I mean only one or two very, very light passes per side - then test cutting, to see if the edge is meeting your expectations.

Whether a strop improves the edge further depends on exactly what your expectations are for the edge finish, as compared to the stones you have available to you. I figured out a while ago, that an edge finished on a strop beyond a certain level of polish is going to be an edge that doesn't last long anyway, in typical uses. So, the benefit of going that far on a strop may not last much beyond the first cut or two, after which the finish left by the last stone used will be the greater influence on how the edge performs. For me, that last stone is often the medium ceramic (1000 - 1200 grit or so), which leaves an edge finish that is both aggressive in cutting and also lasts awhile. I usually feel I don't need or want anything more than that.

 

[garry3]

I always felt intimidated by my leather and denim strops. On several occasions I got rounded edge, I never new exactly when to add compound etc. I found to my satisfaction that it is very easy to strop on a piece of paper loaded with compound on a hard surface (I use granite or a very flat ceramic tile). But than brought an Idea that it is not exactly stopping but most likely honing or even sharpening since I definitely remove metal from my knives. It brings several questions: why nobody in the 21 century can not develop some man made material to replace leather as they did with natural whetstones? Then what is exactly stopping where is the border line between stropping and sharpening? And finally: do I need to strop if I will get a stone with very high grid, can it replace a leather strop?

I can tell you as a straight razor shaver that I have never had an edge that didn't benefit from a leather strop (sharper, smoother). But that isn't what I am looking for with a knife.

Like David, I want a toothy edge on a knife and loaded strops don't help me there. Just depends on what kind of an edge you prefer, the possibility's are almost endless.

 

[777 Edge]

It brings several questions: why nobody in the 21 century can not develop some man made material to replace leather as they did with natural whetstones?

There are materials being repurposed and others specifically being developed for stropping. Some examples that come to mind are Jende's Nanocloth, Gritomatic's Hetinax & Scott Gunn's Gunny Cloth.

 

[AFAustin]

David, you indicated you now prefer using the corner of a fine or medium ceramic rod for finishing an edge. Is that with edge trailing?

Thanks,

Andrew

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

David, you indicated you now prefer using the corner of a fine or medium ceramic rod for finishing an edge. Is that with edge trailing?

Thanks,

Andrew

Edge leading, with the lightest touch I can manage. I use the Sharpmaker in conventional fashion for that - usually with the medium rods - but sometimes doing a tiny microbevel with the fine rods.

I also have a Lansky triangular ceramic that I removed from its guided holder and I use it freehand for essentially the same thing. Both work very well.

 

[Barmaley]

I can tell you as a straight razor shaver that I have never had an edge that didn't benefit from a leather strop (sharper, smoother).

Garry, do you think you can achieve the same result with a high grit stone or it is important that the leather is used for the last stage and not an other materials?

 

[AFAustin]

Edge leading, with the lightest touch I can manage. I use the Sharpmaker in conventional fashion for that - usually with the medium rods - but sometimes doing a tiny microbevel with the fine rods.

I also have a Lansky triangular ceramic that I removed from its guided holder and I use it freehand for essentially the same thing. Both work very well.

David, thanks for your reply and info.

Andrew

 

[garry3]

Garry, do you think you can achieve the same result with a high grit stone or it is important that the leather is used for the last stage and not an other materials?

Stropping is mandatory. Without it the shave would feel rough and that is coming off of some very fine stones, finer than is practical for most knife applications. Traditional barber strops consist of a linen and a leather. I'm sure there are other options if you wanted to experiment. Skin, paper, ect.

 

[Barmaley]

Stropping is mandatory. Without it the shave would feel rough and that is coming off of some very fine stones, finer than is practical for most knife applications. Traditional barber strops consist of a linen and a leather. I'm sure there are other options if you wanted to experiment. Skin, paper, ect.

Very Interesting Garry! Your experience contradicts to David's point that the stropping is simply the last step in sharpening. I guess it all depends on applications: a razor has to get different properties than a knife. I think we need to conclude that a knife sharpening just does not need stropping (which renders a smooth edge) but can be concluded with sharpening which has the only objective of a sharp edge.

To share my personal experience I noted that stropping on a leather strop always improve a paper test of my knives.

 

[eric brinkerhoff]

I have a block of hard rubber ,about 8"x4"x3" ,similar to the rubber that tires are made of. One side I load with compound, the other side I leave plain. I could never strop well until I got this block of rubber! Now it is one of my favorite tools in the shop!

 

[777 Edge]

Very Interesting Garry! Your experience contradicts to David's point that the stropping is simply the last step in sharpening. I guess it all depends on applications: a razor has to get different properties than a knife. I think we need to conclude that a knife sharpening just does not need stropping (which renders a smooth edge) but can be concluded with sharpening which has the only objective of a sharp edge.

To share my personal experience I noted that stropping on a leather strop always improve a paper test of my knives.

Obsessed with Edges is referring to knives and G garry3 is referring to straight razors in his last post above.

I agree with David, for general knife use (especially EDC) there is no real need for stropping - unless you're just experimenting and chasing hair splitting edges for the fun of it. But that hair splitting edge will only last a very short time in normal knife use.

When it comes to straight razors, I also agree with Garry - it is absolutely necessary for a smooth and comfortable shave.

 

[jc57]

Balsa wood with a diamond or CBN spray/compound makes a good firm strop. You can buy actual balsa strops, or just buy blocks of balsa wood and make your own. I use a 3" x 11" balsa strop with a magnetic backing to affix to a magnetic base, with some 1 micron diamond spray, for putting the final edge on kitchen knives after sharpening on water stones. Not terribly expensive and firmer than some leather strops.

I have also stropped on paper on a desktop, a magazine cover, and the smooth hard cardboard pallet edge protectors (which work really nice on the edge of a desk or counter, with and without green or white compound).

You can also strop directly on a sharpening stone with light edge-trailing passes, wrapped in paper or bare.

The trick with stropping is to do enough of it to achieve the desired result (deburring or edge polishing) without doing too much to where you are rounding the edge, or removing too much toothiness. Different substrates and surfaces take different techniques - pressure, angle, etc. Just takes practice and the willingness to experiment and observe the results, until you figure it out.