- Joined
- Jun 26, 2007
- Messages
- 1,508
In another thread, there is some discussion regarding tang construction, specifically in regard to the 124 Frontiersman. As a result of that discussion, and to further educate myself on this matter, I have done some reading at the library as well as to speak with a knife maker, well known to most Buckaroos. It appears obvious to me that most of the confusion is simply a result of misunderstanding in the definition of terms that are being used. Remember Bill Clinton’s infamous, “It depends upon what the definition of ‘is’ is.” Any science/discipline has a defined set of terms, presumably with common meanings, that allows it members to communicate with one another, and knife construction is no different. So, with that in mind, let me offer the following terminology that I have found to be common in the literature.
A tang is the back portion of the knife where it is connected to or extends into the handle. Various tang designs are usually described both (1) by their length, and also (2) by their appearance or the manner in which they are affixed to a blade.
As regards to length, a Full Tang describes a tang which extends the full length of the grip-portion of the handle, as opposed to a Partial Tang which does not. Partial Tang designs include Stub, Half, and Three-Quarter Tangs. A Full Tang knife generally allows for increased force leveraged through the handle against the resistance of material being cut by the blade, an advantage when used against harder materials or when the blade begins to dull. A Full Tang also increases the amount of stock metal in the handle which can be beneficial in altering the balance point since the blade of a knife is often quite heavy compared to the handle.
So IF we accept that premise based upon length, then we can look at the manner/appearance of the handle when it is affixed to the blade. There is a wide variety of ways to attach the handle for both Full and Partial Tang lengths.
In perhaps the most common design in Full Tang knives, the tang is cut in the shape of the handle itself, and the handle scales are then fastened to the tang by means of pins, screws, bolts, metal tubing, epoxy, etc. The tang is left exposed (i.e., visible, not hidden) along the belly, butt, and spine of the handle, extending both the full length and width of the handle. And here, I quote from one of my references, “It is a common misconception that this particular design defines a ‘full tang knife‘”, and I think that misconception is presumably the result of the entire (i.e., full) tang being visible on all sides. I think that few would argue that this is probably the strongest overall construction.
Other methods of handle attachment/construction almost always result in a reduction in the width and/or thickness of the tang, regardless as to whether the tang is full or partial length, so that the tang may be inserted into the handle material. As a result of that reduction, some would argue that such “Full Tang” knives are no longer in fact full. The reader can decide this point on his own.
Some, but certainly not all, of the more common methods of handle attachment in this case are Push Tangs in which the tang is inserted or pushed into a pre-made handle and then fastened in place in some manner; Encapsulated Tangs in which the handle material is molded around the tang itself; and Hidden Tangs in which the tang is fasted within the handle in such a way that neither the tang itself nor the mechanism by which it is fastened is visible on the surface of the handle; in order words, it is "hidden." The simplest way to accomplish this is with epoxy. Another common method is to cut threads into the end of the tang whereby a pommel nut screws into place, as was the case with some early Buck fixed blades.
It seems to me that the greatest confusion is between Full and Hidden Tangs. And I can certainly understand that confusion since a Hidden Tang has actually been reduced in either width, thickness, or both, and is no longer visible (i.e., full) on the exterior of the knife itself. But remember, by definition, Full Tang refers only to the length of the tang. Hidden Tangs, on the other hand, may be either full or partial, based upon their length, however, their tangs are no longer visible, thus giving rise to the term, “hidden.”
And one last point, an Extended Tang is one that extends beyond the grip of handle so that it may function in some additional capacity, as for example, as a hammer pommel.
A tang is the back portion of the knife where it is connected to or extends into the handle. Various tang designs are usually described both (1) by their length, and also (2) by their appearance or the manner in which they are affixed to a blade.
As regards to length, a Full Tang describes a tang which extends the full length of the grip-portion of the handle, as opposed to a Partial Tang which does not. Partial Tang designs include Stub, Half, and Three-Quarter Tangs. A Full Tang knife generally allows for increased force leveraged through the handle against the resistance of material being cut by the blade, an advantage when used against harder materials or when the blade begins to dull. A Full Tang also increases the amount of stock metal in the handle which can be beneficial in altering the balance point since the blade of a knife is often quite heavy compared to the handle.
So IF we accept that premise based upon length, then we can look at the manner/appearance of the handle when it is affixed to the blade. There is a wide variety of ways to attach the handle for both Full and Partial Tang lengths.
In perhaps the most common design in Full Tang knives, the tang is cut in the shape of the handle itself, and the handle scales are then fastened to the tang by means of pins, screws, bolts, metal tubing, epoxy, etc. The tang is left exposed (i.e., visible, not hidden) along the belly, butt, and spine of the handle, extending both the full length and width of the handle. And here, I quote from one of my references, “It is a common misconception that this particular design defines a ‘full tang knife‘”, and I think that misconception is presumably the result of the entire (i.e., full) tang being visible on all sides. I think that few would argue that this is probably the strongest overall construction.
Other methods of handle attachment/construction almost always result in a reduction in the width and/or thickness of the tang, regardless as to whether the tang is full or partial length, so that the tang may be inserted into the handle material. As a result of that reduction, some would argue that such “Full Tang” knives are no longer in fact full. The reader can decide this point on his own.
Some, but certainly not all, of the more common methods of handle attachment in this case are Push Tangs in which the tang is inserted or pushed into a pre-made handle and then fastened in place in some manner; Encapsulated Tangs in which the handle material is molded around the tang itself; and Hidden Tangs in which the tang is fasted within the handle in such a way that neither the tang itself nor the mechanism by which it is fastened is visible on the surface of the handle; in order words, it is "hidden." The simplest way to accomplish this is with epoxy. Another common method is to cut threads into the end of the tang whereby a pommel nut screws into place, as was the case with some early Buck fixed blades.
It seems to me that the greatest confusion is between Full and Hidden Tangs. And I can certainly understand that confusion since a Hidden Tang has actually been reduced in either width, thickness, or both, and is no longer visible (i.e., full) on the exterior of the knife itself. But remember, by definition, Full Tang refers only to the length of the tang. Hidden Tangs, on the other hand, may be either full or partial, based upon their length, however, their tangs are no longer visible, thus giving rise to the term, “hidden.”
And one last point, an Extended Tang is one that extends beyond the grip of handle so that it may function in some additional capacity, as for example, as a hammer pommel.
Last edited:
