tanto vs. drop point (need quick and simple answer)

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Sep 28, 2005
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This might sound like a versy stupid question. But I need to know which of these can be haddled easier, as well as which will pierce, slash and cut with greater ease. I already know that tanto will not break as easily...
No questions asked....
 
Drop points are easier to sharpen, they seem to like thicker stuff better than tantos when chopping (wood, thick cardboard, etc) (probably due to more gradual and overall less significant increase in width towards the spine near the tip), cutting is kind of a unique affair with the tanto, as you really need to do fine cutting with the edge of a knife, and you have this one really flat edge to do it with....on some stuff this works great, on others it's a bit of a hassle. I do really like tantos, but I like REVERSE tantos better. Tantos are usually used where there is lots of stabbing involved, or when you really need the toughest blade tip. Drop points are more or less the standard because of their versatility.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums, where there are no quick and simple answers. :)

Tanto and drop point each vary within the styles themselves. Whose tanto -- Cold Steel's, Chris Reeve's, or Ernie Emerson's? Each is very different from the others.

Pat Crawford makes a small neck knife in drop point or tanto, and the only difference between the two is the tip. The tanto is cut off, and so it's less likely to break in use. The angle between the main and secondary edges is very gentle, unlike Cold Steel's.

The only real difference between the average drop point or tanto is just that: the tanto has a less delicate tip. Otherwise, they can each be made to pierce, cut, and slash as well as the other.
 
tantos really got me in to knives but i agree i like the reverse tanto better now. That CRKT Summit series has a reversish tanto blade and theyre pretty cheap... you can pick the little one up for abt $25 but i think they went to 420j steel thats why i didnt get it.......
 
in my experience a Drop Point has been more useful. for self defense i'd perfer a Tanto (but i'd probably never put down my HK pistol to use it in a SD situation...)
 
Contrary to popular belief, the tanto shape does not mean it will penetrate any better. A tanto can be ground with a thin and slender point, and a drop point can be ground thick and stout at the end. In soft materials, neither one will penetrate nearly as well as a slender clip point or dagger. (and the dagger and clip point can be just as strong, too.)
 
In my experience the only benefits of the Tanto are that they're meaner looking and that they are cool looking. In every other way a nice drop point will pretty much out perform a tanto.
 
A traditional tanto point (Japanese) is very strong. It is worked seperately from the rest of the blade. The Americanized versions are almost all the same, very angular and pointed. The Cold Steel Tantos are very close to original and do pierce car doors, and hoods. Mine have on several occasions at the junk yard. American tanto points are pointy for the same reason they sell, they are purpose built for defense, some do it better than others.
 
tanto points have the ability to snap cut alot better than other designs. if self defense is your primary concern this is something to consider.
 
witchhunter said:
tanto points have the ability to snap cut alot better than other designs. if self defense is your primary concern this is something to consider.

No, it ain't. It might be worth considering if you plan to do a lot of duelling, though. And if we're talking about folders here, you can forget about it all together. On big fixed blades, there are more important things to consider than whether the edge has that angular bump near the tip.
 
swalter6306 said:
A traditional tanto point (Japanese) is very strong. It is worked seperately from the rest of the blade. The Americanized versions are almost all the same, very angular and pointed. The Cold Steel Tantos are very close to original and do pierce car doors, and hoods.

Americanized tanto points are nothing like the traditional Japanese ones. Cold Steel's are nothing like the origionals. And as I said earlier, blade profile is not the only thing influencing strength or penetrating ability. Also, a blade which is supposedly optimized for punching through car doors will not be the best design for stickin' bad guys in modern self defense. ;)
 
Tanto blades can penetrate in slicing better because the "corner" of the edge gives you a good point. But this only works as long as the knife is well sharpened. As soon as that little corner gets dull (which will happen faster than a drop point, which spreads the slicing work over a broader area), cuts will get sloppy. It also doesn't work for all materials. Just as some materials will rip if not sliced at a low angle, the tanto corner will be much steeper than a standard edge that hits flat against the slicer material.

Tip strength is completely unrelated. You can turn a tanto into a drop point by rounding off the corner, and the tip of the blade is almost completely unchanged. A Cold Steel Voyager tanto is actually more durable at the tip than a hollow ground drop point because the bevel at the tip of the tanto Voyager is a flat grind, even when the rest of the bevel is hollow, while a drop point might be hollow ground all the way. This is incidental, and you could make a flat-ground drop point just as good.

Penetration when stabbing is also bunk. The very tip of a similar drop point is the same, but the curved edge is more streamligned (or whatever the right word is) versus a tanto with unnecessary steel hanging off of it. And if you have a tanto with a flat-ground tip to make it more durable than a hollow drop point, the tanto may actually be a little WORSE for stabbing, or equal to a flat grind drop point.

The only thing I ever got good use from a tanto for was cutting open taped boxes. It's only good if you want the sharp corner for slicing, and if so it's really handy, but it depends on what you are slicing.
 
grosse messer said:
This might sound like a versy stupid question. But I need to know which of these can be haddled easier, as well as which will pierce, slash and cut with greater ease. I already know that tanto will not break as easily...
No questions asked....
pierce = thinner the tip, deeper the pierce in soft target like flesh. If they are equal stock thickness,drop point is thinner becuase tanto keeps full thickness out to tip. Warncliffe is even better. If you want to pirce metal then you would want not so thin tip of course, tanto probably better.

slash = hawk bill or hooking blade is best geometry, after that wharncliffe with straight edge all the way out to tip. Both tanto and drop point can slash but nietther is optiimale.

cut = thinner edge irregardless of blade type.
 
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