Tapping Blind Holes - How do you do it?

Daniel Fairly Knives

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Hi guys! I'm wanting to get into tapping blind holes on my folders and want to know what you recommend for the task.

I have a Tapmatic and cordless drill... do I need a hand tapping jig to consistently pull these off? I have not tried the tapmatic (or drill) yet.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
I tried my tapmatic on a blind hole once and it was disastrous. I now do them entirely by hand with a jig that mounts in to drill press, about a tenth of turn and all the way back out each time with plenty of thread cutting fluid.
 
What sizes are we talking and how deep are the holes in comparison to the depth of thread you want?
 
Hi guys! I'm wanting to get into tapping blind holes on my folders and want to know what you recommend for the task.

I have a Tapmatic and cordless drill... do I need a hand tapping jig to consistently pull these off? I have not tried the tapmatic (or drill) yet.

Thanks in advance for the help!

I have modified thread tap for that purpose / not knive / , something like this ..............

[video=youtube;2e7nc3Y5JzQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e7nc3Y5JzQ[/video]
 
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What Natlek shows is what I have used, Daniel. It works well. If the material is reasonable thick as I would expect a frame lock would be I start off with the full length bottoming tap or even a starting tap just slightly shortened.
Frank
 
I have modified thread tap for that purpose / not knive / , something like this ..............

[video=youtube;2e7nc3Y5JzQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e7nc3Y5JzQ[/video]

That's how I do it. Buy 2 of the same taps and grind the tip off the second.
 
Too small for spiral taps then. Too bad. I hate packing chips into a blind hole if I can help it.
 
I'm supersized no one has mentioned thread forming taps yet. I have yet to play around with a small thread size former but it seems like a perfect application. Almost full threads to the bottom without having to deal with tons of tiny chips being packed into the hole.

[video]https://youtu.be/Y0R161ybHYE[/video]
 
I'm more unsure of the method than the taps... I use thread forming if I am working with Ti, Zirconium or Al. I'm thinking a hand tapping jig or drill press may be the way to go for these blind holes.

I'm thinking stuff like clips, insets, bolsters, etc by the way.

Thanks everyone for the help!
 
If the surface you're tapping is flat, I would just make a tap guide that sits on the surface, like every machine tool student makes in their first semester. If that surface isn't flat, but the opposite surface is flat, then I would put the tap in the drill press and tap by hand with the spindle unlocked/free. If you have a milling machine, and are laying out your holes to specific dimensional locations, I would position them on the mill and use a center in the spindle and an appropriate tap handle to keep them straight.

I wouldn't do them under power outside of a CNC myself. Too much hassle the time it doesn't work, and even with a hole popper at that size you're likely scrapping the part at the worst, or modifying it to the next larger thread size at best.

H3 is the class limit for how far oversize from nominal pitch diameter of the thread (which maybe is what you meant by depth). H3 is .001-.0015 over nominal pitch diameter and fairly typical in those sizes. H3 threads assemble easily without galling or binding.

If your setup and tapping method leads to threads that aren't sufficiently tight in fit, one way to deal with that is to use an L class tap, which is undersize relative to the pitch diameter.
 
Or I would build a miniature version of this very handy tool.

EV55-790.png
 
Or I would build a miniature version of this very handy tool.

EV55-790.png

This is a handy tool and can be had reasonable from Little Machine Shop....cheaper than I can build one actually.
 
If the surface you're tapping is flat, I would just make a tap guide that sits on the surface, like every machine tool student makes in their first semester. If that surface isn't flat, but the opposite surface is flat, then I would put the tap in the drill press and tap by hand with the spindle unlocked/free. If you have a milling machine, and are laying out your holes to specific dimensional locations, I would position them on the mill and use a center in the spindle and an appropriate tap handle to keep them straight.

I wouldn't do them under power outside of a CNC myself. Too much hassle the time it doesn't work, and even with a hole popper at that size you're likely scrapping the part at the worst, or modifying it to the next larger thread size at best.

H3 is the class limit for how far oversize from nominal pitch diameter of the thread (which maybe is what you meant by depth). H3 is .001-.0015 over nominal pitch diameter and fairly typical in those sizes. H3 threads assemble easily without galling or binding.

If your setup and tapping method leads to threads that aren't sufficiently tight in fit, one way to deal with that is to use an L class tap, which is undersize relative to the pitch diameter.

Thanks! Very helpful and most appreciated.

Daniel, this what I use for blind holes in bolsters & pocket clips. I mount it in the drill press just to hold it and turn by hand. I also use it mounted in the lathe for thumb studs.
http://www.msdiscount.com/columnar....ench&hl=en&show=dd&scoring=p&sessioncookieset

Thanks Alan! I think I will try that first. I started of using my mill but that looks way better than the way I was doing it... nice price too!
Hot damn you aren't kidding. I wouldn't have thought to look there.

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2898&category=1385080466

I'm ordering one.

That does look like a steal!
 
One little suggestion is that I made a stop collar to set the repeat ability on blind holes when doing multiples of same tapping process.

Mike
 
One little suggestion is that I made a stop collar to set the repeat ability on blind holes when doing multiples of same tapping process.

Mike

I was thinking of something along those lines, excellent idea!
 
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