Bladescout almost says it all. I have the same setup - Skrama, puukko 110 and 140 and the mini puukko bare tang. All are great blades for the price, and not only for the price but just that: good blades. Basically, if you have those, you don't really need anything else except 1) a thin-bladed pocket knife for fine slicing cuts (to stay within the price/quality range, I'd suggest an Opinel), a multitool for the pliers and other small tools; or if you are a knife nut like most of us, just because you may want something that looks nicer with noble wood handle scales, micarta, supersteel blade etc. etc. - but there you are talking about want, not real need. Of course most people who buy sturdy, practical blades like this probably already have one or more Moras, a Hultafors, something like that. This is really the next giant step up.
Some of my own personal observations:
- Skrama: you can improve it if you sand down the 'knob' on the handle a bit that separates the two grip positions, so it won't press so much into your ring finger when you choke up on the blade; you can also thin the edge as the 80CrV2 steel can really take a beating even with a keener edge bevel (best is convex for its chopping use) - I thinned/convexed mine and went from very good to absolutely awesome. A magnificent delimbing and splitting tool. As far as the sheath is concerned, the Skrama is a very large blade that I would not carry on my belt. If you just throw it in the boot of your car or in a pack, the standard blade protector will do fine as it retains the blade pretty well. I got the molle sheath with it and attached a sling so I can carry it baldric style, which works very well.
The puukko 110 and 140: both great. Get the sheaths with them, they are awesome (the retainment system with the snap button will likely withstand being launched into orbit strapped upside-down to a SpaceX rocket and when unsnapped, still retains the knife fine even upside down, while allowing for comfortable and silent unsheathing and sheathing - it's the sheath the Peltonen Sissipuukkos should have had, save for a loop on the back to enable strapping it to a tactical harness or backpack shoulder strap).
Note that these knives do not have scandi grinds but sabre grinds with a small secondary edge bevel. It allows for a keener main grind than would have been possible with a full scandi, and works pretty well. Convex them over time on a stropping belt and they will get even better. I don't much care for shaving with sturdy outdoor knives, I do care about holding a good working edge and they do that fine.
As far as the usefulness of the 110 vs the 140: I first had the 140 and found that it chopped way above its weight and size. I used it a lot for delimbing and light splitting. Then I got the Skrama and now the 140 sees far less use. Still, it's a great multifunctional knife to carry as your only fixed blade next to an EDC folder/multitool. If you have the Skrama, the 110 is the logical companion.
Finally, the mini puukko bare tang. Most people buy these to make their own handle. I did not. I got the flat leather sheath with it and now I have a very sturdy flat blade that I can use for food prep - very good at that as it has a keener, higher grind than it's big brothers, I use it daily to cut bread and cheese, and as there is no handle it is easy to clean - and on the other hand, a small blade that I can whack to split wood as I don't need to worry about damaging a handle, I can hit the tang. And it takes up little room in a jacket pocket or shoulder bag.
So: Skrama plus 110 for yard work or car camping, 140 plus mini bare tang for hiking where the Skrama is a bit too much to carry but you still want to take some indestructible edged steel for peace of mind.
The forge residue on the blades is not a deliberate coating, my guess is that it's a result of cooling the blades in oil. I found that it tends to stick to certain things you cut - cheese in particular. You can get rid of most of it with fine steel wool or even a kitchen sponge pad, and just leave a greyish layer. Looks rough enough, does not leave sooty residue in your food.
I'm only talking about the carbon steel versions here. The 80CrV2 is a ridiculously tough steel. The stainless versions use 12C27, which is OK but according to people who have compared them, not nearly as good as the carbon steel. You'd still get a very decent knife for the price, but not awesome (except for the sheaths of course). Go for awesome. ;-)
I'm very impressed with both of these (mini-puukko, and 110) I've put the mini-puukko to work at well.. work. Breaking down boxes, cutting tape, basic light duty, and it hasn't needed anything but a light stropping so far. Both are nice and sharp right off the bat, whoever is in charge of sharpening knows their business. The 110 is, quality wise well above it's price point. I did get the sheath with it and love it, retention is crazy, it ain't going nowhere. I see more of these in my future.
