The “Can’t leave anything alone” Thread

JoWa said:
Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. The Bridgeport isn’t a CNC, it’s a manual mill. I’ve been running them since 1990, but I don’t have access to a NC machine.

Going to give this a try, worst case I’m out $3 worth of aluminum bar.
Click to expand...
I've also used super glue with great success as mentioned by Fixall Fixall , I almost suggested that myself since you're working with pretty flat stuff. The hot glue/thermolock has the advantage on irregular objects like pocketclips.
 
JoWa said:
Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. The Bridgeport isn’t a CNC, it’s a manual mill. I’ve been running them since 1990, but I don’t have access to a NC machine.

Going to give this a try, worst case I’m out $3 worth of aluminum bar.
Click to expand...

Word.

As long as you can get the glue viscous enough so it lays level, and the mill doesn't heat up the material too much to release the glue, I'm sure it'll work like a charm. :)

If not, the superglue method just involves painters tape and superglue. Pretty simple and cheap.
 
Fixall said:
Word.

As long as you can get the glue viscous enough so it lays level, and the mill doesn't heat up the material too much to release the glue, I'm sure it'll work like a charm. :)

If not, the superglue method just involves painters tape and superglue. Pretty simple and cheap.
Click to expand...
Hmm, now I’m curious and might have to run a side-by-side test to see which has the best shear strength...

You make a good point about getting the piece to lay flat for machining. The thinner set of the super glue would help there.

In all honesty, when I first posted the question I was hoping that there was some magical “fixturing cement” with incredible holding capacity and easy release and clean up.
 
20210527-KSRAke.jpg


Kershaw Rake converted to framelock
 
WValtakis said:
I'm confused...are you just dremeling out the scale and gluing it to the liner?
Click to expand...
Kind of. I drilled the gap in the scale and squared with a file
Then cut the scale with a small hack saw and stuck it back on the Liner lock with epoxy
 
WValtakis said:
Sorry, not sorry🤣

This tungsten carbide reprofiled WAY easier than expected on my Atoma diamond plates🤯🤪😎

View attachment 1571560

View attachment 1571561
Click to expand...

Nice! I've been curious about what kind of edge you can get with that those tungsten carbide blades. How's it deburr? I have a feeling I'd have issue getting a really fine edge with how brittle the material is. I have issues with the apex crumbling on me sometimes with really hard steel.
 
Last edited:
Fixall said:
Nice! I've been curious about what kind of edge you can get with that those tungsten carbide blades. How's it deburr? I have a feeling I'd have issue getting a really fine edge with how brittle the material is. I have issue with the apex crumbling on me sometimes with really hard steel.
Click to expand...
It definitely takes a light touch on the finishing strokes...similar to ZDP-189 to my feel.
jfk1110 said:
Looks good!! I'm amazed by the scratches though! Figured it would be hard enough to shrug off any marking up of the blade!! Unless they're not scratches!! Please do tell..
Click to expand...
You mean on flats? That's just their low grade finish on this model🤷‍♂️
 
WValtakis said:
It definitely takes a light touch on the finishing strokes...similar to ZDP-189 to my feel.

You mean on flats? That's just their low grade finish on this model🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
Well that's kinda chincy!! Low grade is definitely right! You'd think for what they charge they could do a bit nicer, cleaner look!! I'm assuming you're going to do something with that in the future as well!!!!!
 
Lol, they take a diamond grinder to the blades for that finish according to their website. It’s on purpose. I kind of like it. 🤷‍♂️
 
WValtakis said:
It definitely takes a light touch on the finishing strokes...similar to ZDP-189 to my feel.

You mean on flats? That's just their low grade finish on this model🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...

Ha! That’s the exact steel I was thinking about when I was talking about the crumbling edges. I had a Spyderco in ZDP-189 a couple of years ago that I could get sharp, but not really sharp. It irritated me so I sold it, lol.

I’ve had a bunch of practice since then... Maybe I’ll give one of those Sandrin’s a go one of these days.
 
Fixall said:
Ha! That’s the exact steel I was thinking about when I was talking about the crumbling edges. I had a Spyderco in ZDP-189 a couple of years ago that I could get sharp, but not really sharp. It irritated me so I sold it, lol.

I’ve had a bunch of practice since then... Maybe I’ll give one of those Sandrin’s a go one of these days.
Click to expand...
What's weird is, on the 140 grit plate it almost felt soft...I swear it cut easier than Queen D2 but that could just be due to the small area I was working.
 
Ol’ Trusty the 710’s dress up is complete. Aramis CF scales purchased here on the forum, replaced the nylon backspacer with Ti standoffs from Knifekits, and the Ti pivot arrived today from xxxadrenalinxxx in Australia. Lookin pretty snazzy for an old guy. 49BFDB47-0009-4AF8-ACC5-7CEF36CA8117.jpegAC9C3196-2939-4B29-83FC-541BB95DC626.jpeg36DBF70C-F6A4-4C83-AB0A-15137DEECC7A.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top