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- Mar 12, 2018
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Dumb question, what size fasteners do I need on an fk1?
Just went to change scales and noticed one has been butchered
Just went to change scales and noticed one has been butchered
They are SAE. Jo can get you new hardware.Dumb question, what size fasteners do I need on an fk1?
Just went to change scales and noticed one has been butchered
I was hoping to find some alternatives in the U.K.They are SAE. Jo can get you new hardware.
Jocarothers at g mail dot com
8/32 threads
Here's a bit more detail from the encyclopedia:I was hoping to find some alternatives in the U.K.
Preheat your oven 100 hotter than your austenitizing temperature
Wrap your blade in stainless foil. Double fold the seams and roll them. Place them where they won't interfere with the plate quench
Make a heat shroud out of foil to help reflect IR from the coils.
Once your oven is at temp for an hour, turn it off and put your work in. Place the heat shroud over the work.
Close the door and turn the oven on at your austenitizing temperature. If you've timed it right it will be pretty close so the exposed coils aren't on a long time burning your shit. Don't worry if you're a little over, the blade takes a few minutes to get up to temp.
Soak the correct amount of time for your application
Turn the oven off. Pull from the oven and quench between two metal plates to pull the heat out quickly. Ideally you want it under 100F in about a minute. This prevents the carbon from leaking back out of solution on the way down reducing certain carbides and maximizing strain energy to reduce RA. Don't worry about pearlite in A2 at this point. Any structures of that nature won't be formed here, it will be from decomposing retained austenite remaining when going into temper.
Once under 100 cut open the foil, hang it above the liquid nitrogen in a large dewer for enough time to get under -300F (an hour works). You can use dry ice in a pinch, you'll get most of the benefits at -100F
pull from cryo and warm until the frost starts to thaw. Clamp it straight and put it into temper. Temper two times (min) for an hour.
^ This is good basic HT for A2
Off the top of my head I'd guess for this application I might soak at 1725 for 30-40 minutes and my tempers might be 475 for a target hardness of around 58. You'll want to double check those numbers.
If you're just doing design development work you can skip a lot of that. Just get it hard and don't worry about a perfect HT.
by 'shroud' do you mean like a little tent?
and to double check; heat oven to 1825 and hold for an hour. Turn off, put knife in with shroud, turn back on to 1725 and soak for 30-40 minutes. Turn off, remove knife, plate quench, remove foil after a few minutes(?) and then put in freezer for an hour. Temper twice at 475 for an hour each
do I got it straight?
by 'shroud' do you mean like a little tent?
and to double check; heat oven to 1825 and hold for an hour. Turn off, put knife in with shroud, turn back on to 1725 and soak for 30-40 minutes. Turn off, remove knife, plate quench, remove foil after a few minutes(?) and then put in freezer for an hour. Temper twice at 475 for an hour each
do I got it straight?
https://www.accu.co.uk/en/imperial-socket-countersunk-screws/30518-SSK-8-32-3-8-A2I was hoping to find some alternatives in the U.K.
Nathan, I am way down towards the bottom of the pre-order list for the K18 (at least I got in). Using your best guess when will the last of the pre-orders ship?
Nathan what do you recommend to preserve ebonite scales?
Don't store it in direct sunlight and since it is a natural rubber product to keep oil off of it.
There are ebonite pins and wind instruments that are 100 years old and doing fine
Nathan, I have a question for you;
you've seen a lot of guy's hammers, and I was wondering if you'd rate mine?
The list of stuff I'm supposed to bring (all qty approximate):
1 Integral Dagger