The "Ask Nathan a question" thread

Good morning guys. I was wondering if anyone knows the factory price of the Hdfk? I’m kicking myself for not picking one up and thinking about tracking one down. Thanks
 
Slayer_Slaine said:
Hey Nathan, how do you rate the AEB-L you're using for some utility fighters against D3V for that pattern? Besides the corrosion resistance does it really stack up?
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AEBL corrosion resistance isn't spectacular. And D3V is nearly stainless so it's not far behind AEBL there. D3V has better abrasion resistance and is tougher. D3V has pretty good edge stability.

AEBL is tougher than most stainless and has good edge retention on account of its high working hardness and superior edge stability. Buy AEBL if you want a very tough stainless knife with high hardness and very good edge stability. Better fine edge stability than D3V. It's more of a precision tool kind of steel than farming implement. It also happens to be easy to sharpen.

It's a joy to use. Despite being "stainless" it's actually closer to an old school simple carbon steel than D3V. I think that people who try it will like it.

It also happens to cost a little less. I wouldn't make a knife purchase decision based on the minor difference in cost, but AEBL happens to be more affordable.
 
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Nate,
To clarify that I'm reading that right about AEB-L having "better fine edge stability" than D3V, would this make AEB-L the better choice for a knife that's intended to be kept hair-popping razor sharp at all times (without seeing any of the potential abuse D3V can better withstand)?

Eg. A knife that would be used as a skinner, or for whittling (or like the high end Japanese kitchen knives that aren't meant to contact bone)?

I don't have any knives in AEB-L, so I'm pretty intrigued by it. What hardness can it be treated up to? I enjoy using my Japanese Santoku and Gyuto in the kitchen, and those are about 62HRC IIRC.

P.S.
I also prefer the blade shapes/profiles of Gyutos and Santokus vs a Western style Chef's knife, or Sabatier, but that's obviously going to depend on individual preference. A laser Gyuto is just a joy to use, with a razor sharp edge, high hardness, and the super-thin behind-the-edge profile. It slices meats and veggies like a dream.
 
In terms of rust, if there is a build up of it on DV3 under the scales and is left, can it cause any damage or vulnerbility to the knife itself? I can easily maintain a blade itself, but I am not a fan of removing scales and attending to the tang. Would that matter in the long run?
 
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