The corrosion resistance of 1095 carbon steel

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sharpen it

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Aug 11, 2011
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Hello guys, recently I got a KA-BAR 1218, its performance is very good!

I really know little about 1095 carbon steel, I'd like to ask if it is rusted somewhere, will the rusty spot become wider and wider, deeper and deeper, finally destroy the whole construction?
 
Not unless you allow this to happen by neglect. Dry it after use and oil regularly, or use one of the modern dry coatings. You can remove the current rust with some fine steel wool or similar before you oil the blade.
 
Just a light coat of oil will prevent rust. Carbon steel knives have served for hundreds of years successfully with just a bit of care. If you get some rust, do like bill1170 and you will be just fine.

Remember, carbon knives were used (and still are!) as fishing knives, hunting knives, camping knives, etc. in wet and dirty environments. They rust, they get cleaned up, and they are ready to go again.

No problem.

Robert
 
WD-40 = Water Displacement 40th attempt. Good for protecting from rust for short term.

Fluid Film = is an excellent short or long term rust protection & preventative.

Almost all of my blades are made from 1095 & i have never had an issue with rust.
 
I've never had any rust issues either. All I really do is wipe the blade down after use and keep them dry. If I haven't used them for a while, they might get a quick wipe with an oily cloth or a tuff cloth.
 
Thank you guys! Now I have another problem: oil, WD-40, or Fluid Film, no matter what is used, when the blade put back into the sheath, the sheath will wipe it down or absorb it (KA-BAR 1218 has a leather sheath). So where do you put your blade? Out of the sheath, somewhere alone?
 
sharpen it said:
Thank you guys! Now I have another problem: oil, WD-40, or Fluid Film, no matter what is used, when the blade put back into the sheath, the sheath will wipe it down or absorb it (KA-BAR 1218 has a leather sheath). So where do you put your blade? Out of the sheath, somewhere alone?
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try one of the "dry" products. i like and use the marine tuf-cloth. once it dries it can't be wiped off. other than the surface overcoat, which has no effect on the product. including sticking it in your sheath. it won't wipe it off.

i've tried oils for years, all kinds, and i like 'em for some things, but not hard use/field knives. i don't like to carry around an oily rag with me. the tuf-cloth or similar products are much easier to deal with, imho. as usual ymmv........
 
I don't know where in China you are, or the availability of American-branded products, but you can use car wax on your knife to help prevent corrosion.
 
Yup! Paste wax will dry/buff clear on the knife and provide stable rust prevention even while left in the sheath. It will wear off with use, of course, so reapply before putting it in storage.
 
My circa 1989 Camillus version of the KaBar has been in creeks, rivers, swamps, mud, rain, snow, blood, and who knows what else. There's rarely a week goes by that I don't use it for something.

It hasn't rusted apart yet :)
 
If rust DOES develop, some #0000 grade steel wool will take it right off. Regions where the coating wears off should develop a nice patina with use that inhibits rust slightly. It can still rust with a patina--it's just a little less likely to start.
 
Leather sheaths will absorb moisture which can attack your blade. I treat all my leather sheathes with SnowSeal to seal the pores (a couple of coats, inside and out, melted in with a heat gun or hair dryer -- usually I take them apart and restitch them), and have rarely had a problem. I also use BreakFree CLP on carbon steel blades when storing them in the sheath for any length of time (over a day).
 
I've had some rust issues with 1095, but the conditions were in humid FL. One of the main reasons I got a good stainless steel machete. Nevertheless, I like good carbon steels. I used to use rem-oil or wd-40, then I wanted something that sticks and stays, so I switched to gun grease. Now, I just grab a cotton swab, light dab of vaseline and coat the blade with it. Cheap and effective. That's when I'm storing them.

When I carry them out and about, just wiping them down after each use and once day goes a long way.
 
I also use BreakFree CLP on carbon steel blades when storing them in the sheath for any length of time (over a day).
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I too find BreakFree CLP to be very effective against rust on guns and knives.:thumbup:
 
I like using mineral oil for general protection. It's food safe.
 
Never had a issue with any of my 1095 blades.

I do keep them clean and dry...
 
In the same vein of questions. Anyone have experience with the following scenario. Take a high carbon blade (say 5160) on a canoe trip. You end up getting the leather sheath and blade soaked from a fall in the water. What is going to happen as you continue on , carrying the knife in the soaked sheath. Will there be rust before camp is set say 6-10 hrs later? I guess the sheath could be dried by the fire at sometime ( creating another issue with the leather ) but if not what will be the long term consequences? I only use stainless steel, and never had any rust, but there are some nice choppers I'd like to carry
 
I'd just pack a piece of green scotchbrite pad with you and remove any rust as it occurs. Forget about the sheath short of applying some waterproofing treatment to it ahead of time.
 
sharpen it said:
Hello guys, recently I got a KA-BAR 1218, its performance is very good!

I really know little about 1095 carbon steel, I'd like to ask if it is rusted somewhere, will the rusty spot become wider and wider, deeper and deeper, finally destroy the whole construction?
Click to expand...

No the rust spot is not a virus. As said, knock it off there with some steel wool, sandpaper, Scotchbrite, etc.
If you're really particular and can't stand the thought of a scratch on your blade, find some Flitz polish and gently remove the rust.
Also, I want to second FortyTwoBlades recommendation of mineral oil if you're using the knife to cut food.
 
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