Recommendation? The drill press market

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Jun 16, 2018
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I'm in the US and with the new 25% tariffs staring us down, I'm looking to acquire before July 6 several different pieces of equipment that I hoped to acquire slowly over the course of several years. The most confusing piece of that equipment is the drill press. The market doesn't make any sense to me at all.

Most drill press reviews are either obviously "sponsored" or centered entirely around wood. I'm interested in a press that can be used for both wood and metal.

So if you've purchased a drill press new, whatever the price point, and you are happy or unhappy with it, could you mention which of those and the price point you looked in? I'm trying to get a better handle on what's available in the market and what's good for someone who works in both steel and wood.
 
Most drill presses can be used on both wood and metal.
The lower end models like the one I got from harbor freight are belt driven, with different sets of pulleys on top to change the speed (which you need for drilling various metals). Higher end ones use other methods for changing the speed.

Generally speaking, get the largest, most rigid one that you have room for. I have an old desktop one from harbor freight and while it does the job, I very often wish I had gotten a larger model.

ETA: oh, and if you can afford, and have the room, just skip the drill and get a mill instead.
 
I feel like you are over thinking it. For metal, all you need is an adjustable speed that can go down to 600 rpm or lower. If you want to drill big holes 1/2" or so then you will need to lower 200 rpm or maybe even 100 rpm.

Edit
I have drilled 1/2" holes at 600 rpm and it works fine. Dont over think recommended speeds.
 
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I've got 4 and looking to get a 5th drill press.
My recommendation is the $400 floor drill press by Porter Cable from Lowes. It's the cheapest drill to have a full 4" spindle.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-8-Amp-12-Speed-Floor-Drill-Press/1000132463

or

At the $280 range, the 13" 16-speed from Harbor Freight. Don't forget your 20% off coupon from their webpage, it's $56 off.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-16-speed-bench-drill-press-38142.html

Don't go any cheaper, they won't hold up to the type of metal work you need it to.
 
Thanks for the replies all, and the recommendation. Seems like the best value I could get is indeed at that $400 level recommendation. There's a pretty big jump in price after that, to the thousands, and at that point it seems I'm better off looking for a mill at that price point.
 
When looking for belt drive drill press first .Floor or bench ,next size ,center of chuck to back upright (column),speed the slower the better ,number of speeds 5,12,16,.If you can still find the Taiwan made there casting are much better .Do not be afraid to upgrade chuck .Most import drill presses come with junk chucks .I hope that helps. WB
 
I agree with what you are saying. In my opinion your problem is where you are looking, you're just not going to find a drill press that will run that low a speed at big box store. I have two 20" drill presses and both will run at 150RPM.

IMG_0628 by Clint, on Flickr

My recommendation is find a nice used one. Both of mine are made in taiwan and weigh in at about 350lbs a piece. I have about $600 in them combined and I completely rebuilt the jet.

IMG_0568 by Clint, on Flickr

IMG_0625 by Clint, on Flickr

-Clint
 
im the odd ball i done own a "drill press" cause when i was building a knife shop worth of tools $ was small and tools that could be used in more then one way were key. my crappy HF mini mill has drilled so many holes i woudl never be able to count them in the last 15 years. ideal no but hard to beat till you get into the big $$$$ like you have found out (and it can lightly mill ) now that i have both the mini and a bridgeport mill i keep thinking about a drill press. lucky for me now in can kind of look for a used pro or new semi pro drill that i can put a tapping head on. im for sure not getting rid of my mini mill tho as i can beat on it and not care and it drills well even if kind of under powered on larger bits due to belt drive slip
 
Whenever buying tools I always look at the second hand market first. These things aren't complicated and the heavier the better. You can find some great machines for pennies on the dollar. Stuff that would cost thousands new.

I do like the small bench top models for wood. I try to keep wood and metal separate because of oil. Shop towels work as well though.
 
im the odd ball i done own a "drill press" cause when i was building a knife shop worth of tools $ was small and tools that could be used in more then one way were key. my crappy HF mini mill has drilled so many holes i woudl never be able to count them in the last 15 years. ideal no but hard to beat till you get into the big $$$$ like you have found out (and it can lightly mill ) now that i have both the mini and a bridgeport mill i keep thinking about a drill press. lucky for me now in can kind of look for a used pro or new semi pro drill that i can put a tapping head on. im for sure not getting rid of my mini mill tho as i can beat on it and not care and it drills well even if kind of under powered on larger bits due to belt drive slip
I've been considering the mini mill for the exact same reason. Do you think it's worth it as an accurate drill press and very light milling or should I look for something better. Problem is any industrial machines that pop up in my area are crazy expensive so I'd be looking at the mid size bench top machines and they're not the greatest either.
 
I bought an abused delta for cheap, cleaned up a few burs on quill/stop assembly and put a good keyless chuck on it. Still going strong 30 years later. Just make sure you get the rmp down. I think 250 is the slowest on mine and I wouldn’t mind a bit slower as I drill (used to) quite a few 5/8 holes. It stays on slow 90% of the time. A good chuck makes a world of difference
 
I've been considering the mini mill for the exact same reason. Do you think it's worth it as an accurate drill press and very light milling or should I look for something better. Problem is any industrial machines that pop up in my area are crazy expensive so I'd be looking at the mid size bench top machines and they're not the greatest either.
The mini mill comes with added expenses just for the purpose of milling a good vise, and tooling. I have 3 bench top drill presses for specific tasks and and one floor model for extra long drilling tasks. If your just drilling tangs a drill press is plenty accurate so long as you take the time to square the spindle to the table. If you are doing precision folder work nothing beats the Mill again the tooling will be more than the price of a bench top mini mill.
 
I've been considering the mini mill for the exact same reason. Do you think it's worth it as an accurate drill press and very light milling or should I look for something better. Problem is any industrial machines that pop up in my area are crazy expensive so I'd be looking at the mid size bench top machines and they're not the greatest either.

Like Butch I use my HF mini mill for milling/drilling the ferrule on my J-knife builds. I also use it to mill my handle blocks square, and other things like that. And it drills straight holes. I have two drill chucks that fit the collets (R8) for easy drilling use. It is also pretty compact.
I don't own a drill press, and I restored two Craftsman 150s when I first started making knives.
I put the belt kit on my mill and got rid of the gears. I also got my mill for 125 bucks off CL, so I was pretty lucky. Expect to pay 400 I think used, but hopefully you get a good compliment of tooling, which can easily cost as much as the mill.
 
Drill presses are an interesting subject. I feel the advice above not to "over think" it, couldn't be further off base. If you care about the quality of your knives, you need to be smart about how you put the holes in them. Drill presses are cheap these days and that is because features and accuracy are missing. Any time a company decides to manufacture industrial tools to sell to the hobby and home shop market, they will have to drastically reduce the cost.

There are four things in most drill presses that I have a problem with. I suggest you take a careful look at what's out there and will actually fit your needs before just buying on price.

1. Inability to get the table accurately trammed to the spindle. High end commercial drilling machines have a table that tilts left to right and nods forward and back. They can be accurately trammed to the spindle so your holes will be straight. Anything under $2k will not nod and many under $400 won't tilt. Those that do tilt are usually pinned at the factory to remain straight while shipping and will need to be disassembled and unpinned then trammed as well as possible.

2. No Morse taper in the spindle. Many of the low end drill presses have a chuck that is attached by a bolt through the spindle. These are inherently inaccurate due to runout and prevent using other tools in the spindle such as a tapping head or tapered shank drills.

3. Crappy depth stops. Craftsman has been notorious for this but they are not alone. A accurate depth stop is a big deal if you need to counterbore/countersink or drill blind holes. The depth stops that employ a collar on the handle are just about completely useless. A coarse thread stop on the side of the machine is almost as useless. And if the clamp that holds the depth stop to the spindle cannot be held in place securely, it might as well not be there at all.

4. Stupid speed ranges. All the manufacturers like to boast about having 12 or 16 speeds but most of those speeds are all so close to each other that they might as well just have four. Give me a wider speed range, especially at the lower end. Of course, part of the reason they do that is because the motors are way under powered and will stall easily at slow speed.

There you go, my thoughts on drill presses. Good luck.

Bob
 
Drill presses are an interesting subject. I feel the advice above not to "over think" it, couldn't be further off base. If you care about the quality of your knives, you need to be smart about how you put the holes in them. Drill presses are cheap these days and that is because features and accuracy are missing. Any time a company decides to manufacture industrial tools to sell to the hobby and home shop market, they will have to drastically reduce the cost.

There are four things in most drill presses that I have a problem with. I suggest you take a careful look at what's out there and will actually fit your needs before just buying on price.

1. Inability to get the table accurately trammed to the spindle. High end commercial drilling machines have a table that tilts left to right and nods forward and back. They can be accurately trammed to the spindle so your holes will be straight. Anything under $2k will not nod and many under $400 won't tilt. Those that do tilt are usually pinned at the factory to remain straight while shipping and will need to be disassembled and unpinned then trammed as well as possible.

2. No Morse taper in the spindle. Many of the low end drill presses have a chuck that is attached by a bolt through the spindle. These are inherently inaccurate due to runout and prevent using other tools in the spindle such as a tapping head or tapered shank drills.

3. Crappy depth stops. Craftsman has been notorious for this but they are not alone. A accurate depth stop is a big deal if you need to counterbore/countersink or drill blind holes. The depth stops that employ a collar on the handle are just about completely useless. A coarse thread stop on the side of the machine is almost as useless. And if the clamp that holds the depth stop to the spindle cannot be held in place securely, it might as well not be there at all.

4. Stupid speed ranges. All the manufacturers like to boast about having 12 or 16 speeds but most of those speeds are all so close to each other that they might as well just have four. Give me a wider speed range, especially at the lower end. Of course, part of the reason they do that is because the motors are way under powered and will stall easily at slow speed.

There you go, my thoughts on drill presses. Good luck.

Bob
Dont forget reverseable !
Very handy if using the machine turning small abrasive or buffing tools.
 
I like to have something reasonable and don't stress much over most holes I drill. If you aren't in a rush and can set up some searches on craigslist and can recognize a machine in good shape you can get a good price on a reasonable machine. I recently picked up one of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-15-in-Drill-Press-with-LED-R1500/205653862 barely used on craigslist for $150. Missed on a couple low priced General drill presses in the last year.
 
Holemaking is both overlooked and over analyzed often. Precision holes that conform to size, position, orientation, and form take more processing than holes that exist simply to create a pathway through another object. If you're making full tang, fixed blade knives and wish to drill holes for weight relief, glue wells, and clearance for pins, your needs are vastly different than those for someone who makes flipper folders for example. What the tariffs have to do with the drill press market, I don't know. Industrial quality drill presses are practically given away at surplus equipment auctions. The drill press simply doesn't have as much place in a modern job shop that it once did. It's still useful, it's still ideal to have one or two, but no longer do shops keep scores of them set up with drill jigs for production.

I got this double Buffalo drill table for $210. These are 3 phase, commercial drills on a blanchard ground cast iron table. They have a speed range of 460 to 3600 RPM. They're adjustable in height, have quill locks, and tapered spindles. They may not be ideal for someone else, but they're set up perfectly for me, as I wanted to be able to set up 2 presses for multiple operations (drill -> ream, or ream -> cbore, etc). While they're not set up in a way to make tramming easy, they can be trammed by shimming the pedestals, and I find that preferable to something meant to move, because they will stay where I put them.
upload_2018-6-17_10-45-36.png

This Powermatic is another auction buy. I think I paid $150 for this. It's also a commercial machine, though on the lower end of that scale. It has a JT33 taper spindle, and a huge size range. It also goes down to 400 RPM, I forget the top range. It has a little more spindle run out than the Buffalos do, so I don't use it for precision holes, but it is great for long drills in handle blocks, or running my tapping head.

upload_2018-6-17_10-49-15.png

I highly recommend perusing industrial auctions for any machine tools like drill presses or surface grinders. Those in particular, at least in my area, go quite inexpensively compared to their value to a knifemaker. The industrial bidders don't generally want them, and the personal buyers wouldn't know what to do with a surface grinder. Bandsaws and knee mills go for often more than I think they're worth, because theirs more market for them, but deals can be had on them too. Sometimes you'll have to fix or repair something, but to me that's worth the effort to have a commercial piece of equipment that's A) made to be repairable and B) vastly superior to homeowner market equipment.

If money were no object or if I'd found them at auction, the best drill presses I've ever worked with professionally were South Bend Ibarmia presses (geared head, fantastic speed ranges for metal work, excellent depth control) like this:

upload_2018-6-17_10-57-23.png I missed out on one just like this for about $300.

And Solberga for similar reasons:
upload_2018-6-17_10-58-41.png

Just throwing that out there in case someone sees one of these at auction for a reasonable price. None of us would pay for a brand new one.

Generally though, I think having a reasonable quality drill and a milling machine for more precision holes is ideal for most people, or if you only have room for one, just a mill. The only thing a drill press has over a mill is size range for price and being generally faster to set up.
 
Simple way to avoid any tariffs, just buy a used or scratch and dent model.

For "new" just buy scratch and dent. screw retail/msrp pricing. I snagged a Jet 15 JDP benchtop for $300 that way. $600 press. Literally just some scratched paint on it, full warranty. Pretty much every state/region has some place selling surplus/scratch and dent products that are brand new, just cosmetically blemished. Which, let's face it, 1 week in a bladesmiths shop, it's ganna be blemished anyways.

Or as others here have said, get a classic one used that will out perform any presses sub $1k made today. Im always on the lookout for a good condition Atlas, walker-turner, General, etc. One of these days i'll get one to add to my growing wall of presses.
 
OK, I take it back. I now have a craftsman drill press. I had to drill and countersink aluminum plate to mount my new router to and the plate wouldn't fit in my HF mini-mill.
So I had bought this old Craftsman 100 drill press a month ago for 10 bucks at a garage sale. Once I dusted it off it wasn't bad at all. Even that steam-punk light works and it had the chuck key!
And I got my plate drilled and I believe this press is going to get a spot on my workbench now. Cleaned up and new bearings of course.

C100-1.jpg
 
Simple way to avoid any tariffs, just buy a used or scratch and dent model.
I can't argue with anything else in the thread because it's all reasonable and good advice. This is quite wrong though. Tariffs affect the entire market; an increase in new prices will drive an increase in used prices. It's not one to one or necessarily even linear, but there is an effect.

That said -- a lot of these drill presses seem to be Taiwanese in origin, so they won't be hit by the tariffs.
 
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