Off Topic The Hand Tool thread

View attachment 1183175

I think that’s a frozen food knife. Here is Case’s version.
You are absolutely right. There is bunch of Frozen food knife patents from 1950ies
This tooth pattern looks very familiar to us.
vtg-henckels-zwilling-solingen_1_03e02c52491741a4593ec89e8c0ac52c.jpg

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vtg-henckels-zwilling-solingen-1872134886
US2799930-drawings-page-1.png

https://patents.google.com/patent/US2799930A/en
 
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I put a "new" handle in my T.H. Witherby chisel last evening. I attempted to also put one in a craftsman as well but that didn't turn out as planned. Neither did the Witherby for that matter. Didn't seat it as far as I hoped but I doubt it'll ever come loose it's in there so hard. First time I've ever handled a chisel.
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And the craftsman with its handle.
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As you can see one will work the other one not so much! It just snapped right off as o attempted to drive it home.
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It's definitely a high quality chisel. Took a nice keen edge! I feel this belonged here even though I technically did "hang it today". Have a great night fellow tool hounds!
 
I keep an old rubber abrasive polishing wheel in the chuck of mine.

Old%20grinder1.jpg


Mine has 3 speeds. The slotted tracks allow it to move in front of either of the 3 sheaves.

Old%20grinder2.jpg


Sometimes it's nice to have a grinder without a motor in the way.

I really like your set up.
I am looking now for an older 1725rpm motor to mount a similar set up, wire wheel and polisher...i do not at the moment have a beautiful 3 spd pulley to join the team when ready. That is gold!

I do have a great old motor i could use (1950's) but that will break it away from the whetstone i have. Though the stone itself is past its prime.

Great concept with the chuck to quick interchange and extend. And your adjustable track mounting...well thought out. Thanks for sharing that picture :thumbsup:
 
Today I made a mock up for an upcoming project. It's a tenon & mortise joint for a knee brace. I'll be building a new patio roof in a couple weeks and I wanted to practice this before I risked damaging good lumber. This went pretty well but this old crap lumber I had laying around gave me some trouble because it's not square or dimensionally correct.
1.jpg



Here's the tenon. It's a piece of old weathered poplar. It carves pretty nice but the piece isn't square.
2.jpg


I started the mortise pocket in a scrap of 4x12 Doug Fir. I hogged out a bunch of material with a 1-1/4" spade bit and a cordless drill. I'm not being a slave to hand tools on this project. I go back and forth between hand and power tools based on what I feel like doing.
3.jpg


Some nice mortising chisels and a small slick. The crude little mallet is made from a piece of London Plane, chosen for its toughness. I have a bunch of fast & dirty mallets/mauls around.
4.jpg


Here the mortise pocket is taking shape. The lines drawn across the pocket labeled 45 & 90 were to help me place my drill. The double line in the middle had 90° and 45° bore holes starting right next to each other and immediately crossing each other. I drilled tiny pilot holes for each that I could follow after my spade bit bore for the first hole wiped out my layout for the second. I used my DeWalt cordless leaf blower to clean out the pocket as I worked. That worked great!
5.jpg


Here's the finished mortise pocket.
6.jpg


Next I'm making some pegs for my joints. I'm using some black locust that I've air dried for 3 years. Black locust is a great choice for pegs because it's hard, gritty (grippy) and highly rot resistant. It was the preferred peg material for colonial timber framers. I have an 8" long piece of a 7-1/2" round. I'm slabbing it with a froe. The maul on the stump is an piece of Doug Fir. It's not a very good maul. I carved it green 5 years ago for a single use project. But it hasn't died yet so I still use it.
7.jpg


I split the slab into peg blanks. I got a dozen blanks out of this round. I need 8 for my project plus one for this mock up.
8.jpg


I roughed out the peg with a Pexto drawknife. I use my drawknife bevel side down, super sharp and pull it skewed to slice rather than split. I've found I'm best able to manage grain changes this way. I finished the peg by draw filing with the smooth side of a farriers rasp. This cleaned them up real fast. Later I bought material at the hardware store to make a peg jig. I'll see how that goes. I may come back to this method.
9.jpg


One last shot of my mock up.
10.jpg
 
Today I made a mock up for an upcoming project. It's a tenon & mortise joint for a knee brace. I'll be building a new patio roof in a couple weeks and I wanted to practice this before I risked damaging good lumber. This went pretty well but this old crap lumber I had laying around gave me some trouble because it's not square or dimensionally correct.
1.jpg



Here's the tenon. It's a piece of old weathered poplar. It carves pretty nice but the piece isn't square.
2.jpg


I started the mortise pocket in a scrap of 4x12 Doug Fir. I hogged out a bunch of material with a 1-1/4" spade bit and a cordless drill. I'm not being a slave to hand tools on this project. I go back and forth between hand and power tools based on what I feel like doing.
3.jpg


Some nice mortising chisels and a small slick. The crude little mallet is made from a piece of London Plane, chosen for its toughness. I have a bunch of fast & dirty mallets/mauls around.
4.jpg


Here the mortise pocket is taking shape. The lines drawn across the pocket labeled 45 & 90 were to help me place my drill. The double line in the middle had 90° and 45° bore holes starting right next to each other and immediately crossing each other. I drilled tiny pilot holes for each that I could follow after my spade bit bore for the first hole wiped out my layout for the second. I used my DeWalt cordless leaf blower to clean out the pocket as I worked. That worked great!
5.jpg


Here's the finished mortise pocket.
6.jpg


Next I'm making some pegs for my joints. I'm using some black locust that I've air dried for 3 years. Black locust is a great choice for pegs because it's hard, gritty (grippy) and highly rot resistant. It was the preferred peg material for colonial timber framers. I have an 8" long piece of a 7-1/2" round. I'm slabbing it with a froe. The maul on the stump is an piece of Doug Fir. It's not a very good maul. I carved it green 5 years ago for a single use project. But it hasn't died yet so I still use it.
7.jpg


I split the slab into peg blanks. I got a dozen blanks out of this round. I need 8 for my project plus one for this mock up.
8.jpg


I roughed out the peg with a Pexto drawknife. I use my drawknife bevel side down, super sharp and pull it skewed to slice rather than split. I've found I'm best able to manage grain changes this way. I finished the peg by draw filing with the smooth side of a farriers rasp. This cleaned them up real fast. Later I bought material at the hardware store to make a peg jig. I'll see how that goes. I may come back to this method.
9.jpg


One last shot of my mock up.
10.jpg
I love it man! Thanks for the comprehensive write up. The post vise and draw knife, I salute you!
 
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