The Manix 2 Lightweight (S110V) is amazing.

S110V Manix has been my work knife for the last 3 weeks. So far I like it a lot more than the G10/XHP version I used to own. The FRCP makes the knife wayyy lighter and feels better to me.

The steel has been great for me. I cut a ton of cardboard, reinforced webbing, and plastic everyday and the steel just keeps on cutting. So far I've been sharpening on the Sharpmaker every ~10 days and it sharpens just as easily as my other Spydercos. Just did 20 passes on the corners of the brown stones and a few passes on the flats for the tip and it went from a good cutter to shaving sharp.

I'm glad this is a production model and over the years I've found I definitely prefer FRN/FRCP for my serious user knives 👍
 
Don't want to forget the photos haha

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Mine requires 2 hands to operate, or some kind of outside assist. I suppose that is the tradeoff to making it light weight and I do find the lightness very interesting. I have a couple of G10 versions for when I need one-hand operation or just want to play with it.

Mine also had a bit of friction out the box, but it has loosened up nicely with use. Give it a few days to break in.


 
After having it reground to .005" behind the edge.



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CARDBOARD.....




Well I am done, 3,800 cuts and I have had it, was still going strong......And this is why I don't use cardboard as my primary.....

Around 1,266 YARDS of cardboard....

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This looks like an awesome knife, thanks for all the good pictures. I was looking only for a Para2 recently for my next knife, but...

(...off to search Para 2 vs Manix 2 comparison threads...)
 
Whats a good geometry for this knife steel?

15 Degrees per side is fine for normal use and will handle just about anything.

Now if the blade is thinned out (Reground) to around .015" it can be taken down to around 10 Degrees per side.
 
15 Degrees per side is fine for normal use and will handle just about anything.

Now if the blade is thinned out (Reground) to around .015" it can be taken down to around 10 Degrees per side.

Do you recall what the factory edge is ground to? 15dps?
 
Whats a good geometry for this knife steel?

I went to 15 degrees per side and it's very durable while being a great cutting edge.


I think the factory edge was slightly less acute as the bevel looks a little larger
 
Spyderco truly rocked the production knife world with this one. A world full of pocket jewelry safe queens getting all the super steel variations. They forego passing trends and throw pretty much the highest tier steel in production capacity into a no nonsense, economical workhorse. THIS is why I love this company.

I had to break down and spend megabucks to get one now, maybe I can call it my father's day present.



I've discovered that knives with FRN don't operate nearly as smoothly as knives with G10 and full liners. I've got a Delica and this M2, both with a lot of friction between the blade and the scales. I think most FRN knives in the past were lockback and it didn't matter since those were 2-hand operation, but the M2 should be one-hand. Mine requires 2 hands to operate, or some kind of outside assist. I suppose that is the tradeoff to making it light weight and I do find the lightness very interesting. I have a couple of G10 versions for when I need one-hand operation or just want to play with it.

Um, spyderco backlocks aren't two handed knives... Not sure where you got that notion.
 
I liked Manix2LW S110V so much that I have knowingly sacrificed 2 very good knife warrantee to have this Manix2 S110V in G-10. No, I couldn't wait until Spyderco offers S110V in regular production.

Although now I have Manix2LW S30V, I think it is time for me to buy another Manix2LW S110 as a back up.

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I am used to Benchmade AXIS lock, so ball bearing joint was a little bit stiff. I needed to use 600grit sand paper to smooth out the plastic burr to make it easy to pull. I think my Manix2's spring was a bit hard, but after reading some of the thread warning me not to mess with it, I didn't modify the spring tension. (I was tempted...)


MFL
 
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I own the Blue Translucent model with CTS BD1 steel and since I am not a 'heavy' user I have found it more than adequate for all tasks I demand of it. Very happy with it though I can see why many would like the S110V.
 
I'm definitely going to pick one up when they show up in stock again. Lol,this is a butterfly killer imho.:D
 
Um, spyderco backlocks aren't two handed knives... Not sure where you got that notion.

I have a blue delica setting next to me right now. I cannot close it one-handed without using some kind of external assist such as bumping it against my leg or the edge of a table. I don't think those types of actions are safe so I don't consider it a safe one-handed knife. My S110V Manix is exactly the same- won't close without outside assistance. I have at least 14 other folding Spyderco knives that I can easily and safely close one-handed. These are liner locks, BBL's and compression locks.
 
Although now I have Manix2LW S30V, I think it is time for me to buy another Manix2LW S110 as a back up.


Since your S110V blade became a G10 model, sounds like you need to buy TWO new ones- one so you will have a new S110V LW and a backup to it. Or maybe you need to buy THREE so you can have a backup blade to the G10 model.


remember-
"two is one and one is none"
"a pair and a spare"
 
Is 110v steel that good? I am liking mine, but admittedly know little about blade steels.
 
Is 110v steel that good? I am liking mine, but admittedly know little about blade steels.

Scroll up to post #24 and look at that large pile of cardboard sliced with S110V. Apparently it is very resistant to dulling from cutting somewhat abrasive materials.

It is hard to define "best" because steels have different qualities, but in terms of edge holding S110V is one of the best steels ever put into a factory production folding knife.
 
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