The most underrated sharpening accessory

Joined
Aug 3, 2009
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1,575
I've seen the universal sharpening stone holder in a number of videos over the past year and it didn't really click with me that I might want one until I got my DMT plates. Since the DMT's are less than 1/2" thick, you have to elevate them off of the table with something. A stone holder seemed like a good idea. If you haven't seen what I'm talking about, there are two of them in this video. The one in the foreground is missing one of it's tension nuts, but I think you get the idea. Heavy rubber grips the stone and keeps it from moving; the rubber also grips the surface of the table it sits on and keeps it VERY stable.

I'm SUPER happy with the one I got. It clamps down on the stone with a minimum of force on the screws/nuts. Just finger tight is more than enough to keep you from being able to move the stone even when picking the whole thing up by the stone and shaking vigorously. The rubber is incredibly grippy on the surface of a table too. It isn't going *anywhere*, even with substantial force on the stone. It works very well with my DMT Diasharp 8x3 plates, but there's one small caveat: I have the little rubber feet that come with the plates stuck to the bottom of each plate as DMT expects you to. If you don't use the feet, the plate just barely clears the rubber surface. This might get in your way on a bigger knife. For me, it's perfect as is.

I don't know how to convey how useful this device is. It's so much better than trying to rig up something and keep it from sliding around!

I've found a few other novel uses for it in sharpening that I'm pretty excited about too:

1. You can clamp a Spyderco profile stone into it and use it like a bench stone. You've got to be careful to make it clear the rubber, but it's pretty easy. You can also use a spyderco sharpmaker rod the same way, with a flat side facing up. It stays locked in place perfectly for use as a flat stone.
2. If you twist the profile stone so that one of it's curved edges is facing up, you've got a really stable curved surface that's prefect for sharpening serrations. Either one at a time or sliding serration to serration like on the sharpmaker. Depending upon the angle you clamp it in at, you can fill small serrations, or large serrations.
3. Using the Sharpmaker with a long knife (6 - 9") I find it awkward and very hard to precisely control angle and pressure at the tip of the blade. I like to use two hands: One on the handle of the knife and one riding the side of the blade to guide it. It's much more stable. But if you do this on a counter top or table, the Sharpmaker slides side to side due to the blade pressure and the fact that no one is holding on to the sharpmaker base. Stone holder to the rescue. Clamp the sharpmaker long ways in the stone holder and Voila', it's going nowhere, even with substantial pressure. I discovered this right after buying a sliding clamp to clamp the sharpmaker to the table top. The stone holder works just as well!

I'm sure I've lost most of you by now, but this is an awesome accessory. ...and it's pretty inexpensive. Two thumbs up. I guess since I sound like an ad here I have to give the disclaimer: I have nothing to do with any company that makes or sells these holders. I'm just a very enthusiastic customer.

Brian.
 
I always just used a wet dish towel under my stones to keep them from sliding. As you never use any real force on the stones anyway, the wet towel keeps it perfectly still, as well as soaking up all the water splashes from keeping the stone wet during the process.

I see the rubber things with the screw adjusters being sold in all the DIY shops, but I've never seen any sharpeners use them here. Only in YouTube.



Stitchawl
 
I'm guessing you don't have any thin stones. If your stone is only 3/8" thick (or less in the case of a spyderco profile stone), you've got to elevate it off of the surface or you can't even use it to sharpen at all, as your hand and the handle of the knife will hit the table before the blade makes contact with the stone. I guess this all goes to sharpening style as well. If you hold your stone in one hand, or on your leg or something, this may be a moot point. I'm more and more a fan of sharpening with two hands on the blade, so sitting it on a surface is a must for me.

The rubber is incredibly grippy as well. Should be way better than a dish towel. But hey, if it works for you, I'm not knocking it. I'm still very enthusiastic about my new accessory. :)

Brian.
 
I usually 'free-hand' both stone and blade (I use stones sized for one-hand hold), so the holder hasn't been an issue for me. But, the occasional times I use a hone (or strop block) on a bench, I always keep one edge of it flush to the edge of the bench/counter, so the thickness of it is rendered moot. I switch sides by switching hands and turning around (I prefer to keep the edge oriented towards me on all strokes), so the stone doesn't have to be continually swapped to opposite sides of the bench/counter.

Having said that, I certainly can see the convenience of elevating the hone on a stable platform. Nothing wrong with that. Sometimes there's a very fine line between having a sharpening tool that you hate to use, versus loving it. It often hinges on the 'comfort factor', when one suddenly finds a new way to support or hold the tool. All of a sudden, it just 'works'. :)
 
bg, I know what you mean and like to use them. I've made some out of 2x4" stock by tacking on molding at the ends or chiseling out a rectangle which it fits into. I like the clearance this affords. The wet towel doesn't work when I rebevel as then I use more pressure and it will slide. Plus, a trough holder can catch the swarf and not allow for a mess. Many times I sharpen on the porch or at the shop so my wife's hair doesn't change color right before my eyes. DM
 
I'm an 'edge of the table' sharpener too, so even using a DMT 'credit card' doesn't cause a problem for me. My strops are all mounted on blocks but there is virtually no pressure on them when I'm stropping, so no movement at all. But even when I have to reprofile a blade, I don't use enough pressure to move the stones. The towel is more to soak up my splashes when I get messy with water stones. It's just damp because that's the way I use them under kitchen cutting boards too...


Stitchawl
 
Edge of the table and a sheet of no-slip rubber shelf liner for me.
 
I made a "bridge" for my sink, by cutting a 1x4 long enough to span the sink (front to back) tacked on a couple of pieces of wood as stops on the underside to keep it from sliding back or forward. I some times use a piece of wet paper towel or old rag to keep the stone from sliding. Very handy as water is close at hand for use, and the mess falls into the sink. I haven't had problems with stones or diamond plates sliding, but if I did, I would tack on thin cross piece to prevent the stone (s) from moving. Kinda like a Japanese work bench.
 
I made a "bridge" for my sink, by cutting a 1x4 long enough to span the sink (front to back) tacked on a couple of pieces of wood as stops on the underside to keep it from sliding back or forward. I some times use a piece of wet paper towel or old rag to keep the stone from sliding. Very handy as water is close at hand for use, and the mess falls into the sink. I haven't had problems with stones or diamond plates sliding, but if I did, I would tack on thin cross piece to prevent the stone (s) from moving. Kinda like a Japanese work bench.

I've seen people do this with a small basin, like a cats litter pan (clean, I hope!) and just use your hand to splash some water on the stones.

My strops and lapping films are cut the same size as my precision surfaced india stone, so I just use it as the base for my touch ups. I do have a dozen or so extra 12" polished marble tiles that I may just cut to make a base for my lapping films.


-Xander
 
I've seen people do this with a small basin, like a cats litter pan (clean, I hope!) and just use your hand to splash some water on the stones.

My strops and lapping films are cut the same size as my precision surfaced india stone, so I just use it as the base for my touch ups. I do have a dozen or so extra 12" polished marble tiles that I may just cut to make a base for my lapping films.


-Xander
The marble tiles sound like good bases for the films or sandpaper.

My only issue with using pans instead of the sink, is that I believe that they would tend to raise the stones too high for me; At least if used on a kitchen counter top. I guess I could use it on a bathroom counter top which would be lower, or a table (but would be reluctant to let my wife see me splashing swarf on the table :-) )and I don't have a particularly good shop situation...yet
 
The marble tiles sound like good bases for the films or sandpaper.

My only issue with using pans instead of the sink, is that I believe that they would tend to raise the stones too high for me; At least if used on a kitchen counter top. I guess I could use it on a bathroom counter top which would be lower, or a table (but would be reluctant to let my wife see me splashing swarf on the table :-) )and I don't have a particularly good shop situation...yet

All the people I have seen using a basin have been doing so in the shop while standing. I do see how it would be too tall when seated at a table, for me I use a bar stool in my shop so it still works well, but if I'm sharpening the kitchen knives inside I just put a towel down on the table and work that way. I have a 3 year old son, a little water on the table is nothing compared to what he's capable of!


-Xander
 
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