How To The one change you should make to the Tormek...

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Dec 27, 2004
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The Tormek was one of the first sharpeners I tried, and I developed a liking for it. I like the Tormek for a lot of reasons... besides being fun to use, it creates little mess, is a nice "all-in-one" package, can make repairs, no "overheating" worries, little "dust" created, easily puts a great edge on a knife... among others. Over the years though, I got involved in other sharpeners, and got away from the Tormek.

This year, I returned to either sharpening freehand on various stones, or sharpening on the Tormek. I even ended up getting a new "T-4" model... which in some respects, is a better alternative to its larger cousin for knife sharpening... smaller compact size, less expensive (machine and stones), among other reasons.

This time though, I took a look at the Tormek with a more "critical eye".

To preface: One thing that separates the Tormek from other sharpeners is that, when sharpening on a wheel, changing the location on the wheel, changes the angle. So, even though you keep the knife at the same angle, if you move up or down the wheel, the angle changes.

One thing I noted on the Tormek, is on the standard knife jig, the jig has a "jig stop" that is about 2" wide. If you pivot the knife on this stop... you can dramatically alter the angle the knife is now being sharpened at... by several degrees, because it changes the location of the knife on the stone. Not only that, but you basically have two "pivot points" to deal with. To illustrate, I've drawn a "Line of Contact" (LOC) on the stone...

doY6p9x.jpg


... so if a knife is set at 20° (or any angle), the knife must stay close to this LOC to maintain the angle. You can see that on the straight portion of the blade this isn't an issue...

04chskp.jpg


... but you can see, that if you pivot the knife to follow the belly-to-tip area, the contact location on the stone changes. (This is more of an issue on knives under approx. 3 1/2" with a more pronounced belly tip area)...

tuffZyS.jpg


Even adjusting the clamp as far away as possible, doesn't adequately adjust for this...

idV8Cwl.jpg

... so, the solution? Replace the Tormek's "Stop Collar" (seen below on the left), with a 12mm drill stop collar (or shaft collar... seen on the right) with a smaller diameter. (A solution that can be found for under $3 in most cases)...

yHlzROX.jpg


This allows the sharpener to correctly set the knife in the clamp, and also provides a more natural sharpening movement (compared to having two pivot points to deal with), while allowing the knife to stay close to the LOC and maintain the same angle...

UYAEW0X.jpg




A couple of more points. First, you also have the option of not pivoting the blade at all, and simply lifting the handle. To do so requires more attention be placed on where the blade is set in the clamp... specifically, the location of the belly/tip area in relation to the pivot. Also, this movement isn't as "natural" and may not work on all blade types.

And of course, you have the option of freehand sharpening, which many sharpeners do... and simply keeping the same location consistent throughout the blade. This does take some practice to do so though.

There are other changes I've made (that I'll show some other time), but this is one that I think greatly enhances the use of the Tormek for knife sharpening, and is simple and inexpensive to do! :)
 
Very simple solution , Interesting to see your other ideas
Thanks for posting
 
Interesting! I opted for the freehand method—so now maybe I need to explore this!
 
The next "fix" isn't one I've found an easy solution for.

The Tormek knife jig isn't self centering... it is designed for knives approx. 2.5mm thick (just under .1")... this info comes from other Tormek users in their forum. While not a huge deal, thicker or thinner knives can end up with bevels that are slightly uneven.

Some Tormek users use shims to make up the difference, but I found that if the parts on a KME clamp are rearranged, (and a washer and nut are added to the mix), it makes a decent alternative for the Tormek jig...

XbKVFXL.jpg


... and still incorporates the small pivot modification. But, I know it's probably not worth buying a KME to cannibalize the clamp... so still looking for a better solution. (One option for some knives is the Tormek "Small Knife Holder", which will work for some EDC size knives, but has its own issues).
 
Now moving into some options...

After "solving" the pivot issue, I added this option...

8zU5ARd.jpg


... this converts the horizontal USB on the "turning away" side of the Tormek from a horizontal to a vertical setup.

I had cobbled together a version from a couple of USBs and other parts earlier, but the setup you see here is from a design primarily from Jan, a member of the Tormek forum. The parts I got from McMaster/Carr (2 12mm rods a 1"x2"x1' 1/8" thick wall "Aluminum Tube", and assorted nuts and washers), and a Tormek XB100 Universal Support Base.

The main reason for the setup... when sharpening on this side of the Tormek, it puts the knife in a better and more comfortable position. But there are some "clues" in the pictures (angle marks on the stone, the "chopstick", etc...), of some other reasons (especially for the commercial sharpener). More to come...
 
I would have thought it would be difficult to prevent the drill stop collar from slipping off the jig?

And raising the hand (left hand in your pictures) as opposed to pivoting horizontally is the recommended method - why can't you do that with the standard holder?

Neither method is ideal and I found that both resulted in a tip that was less than perfect, and was the reason I sold mine.
 
I would have thought it would be difficult to prevent the drill stop collar from slipping off the jig?

And raising the hand (left hand in your pictures) as opposed to pivoting horizontally is the recommended method - why can't you do that with the standard holder?

Neither method is ideal and I found that both resulted in a tip that was less than perfect, and was the reason I sold mine.

The Stop Collar has a locking screw which keeps it from slipping on the jig. If you mean slipping over the Support Bar, there's enough of a "lip" to prevent that.

You hit the nail on the head with the rest of your post. Lifting the handle is "less than perfect" solution, and doesn't properly follow the belly/tip area on a lot of knives... especially with the current jig configuration... it won't properly track on knives that are shorter and/or have more of a curve in the belly to tip area. (I'm sorta convinced that Tormek does most of their testing with Chef's knives that are longer and have less of a belly). This being the reason that you sold yours is to me another indication that a redesign is needed.
 
I had considered adding a magnetic indicator to the side of the box, showing where the tip needs to be per knife to get consistent results on multiple passes.

But yes, even with all available tweaks in adjusting the stock gear, it still has trouble doing knives with large bellies. Really is a limitation of sharpening on a wheel.
 
I had considered adding a magnetic indicator to the side of the box, showing where the tip needs to be per knife to get consistent results on multiple passes.

But yes, even with all available tweaks in adjusting the stock gear, it still has trouble doing knives with large bellies. Really is a limitation of sharpening on a wheel.

I think it's more the jig setup... "Paper Wheels" tell me that sharpening on a wheel isn't really the issue... but it does add a few more variables to the equation.

Magnetic indicator is a good idea... I'm getting to mine...
 
I think it's more the jig setup... "Paper Wheels" tell me that sharpening on a wheel isn't really the issue... but it does add a few more variables to the equation.

Magnetic indicator is a good idea... I'm getting to mine...

The minute you add a jig the issues arise. Even a platen has its own problems on some blades. Your mod is probably one of the best ways to deal with the issue.
 
The Tormek wheel being so much wider can magnify issues you don't notice on thin paper wheels. Not to mention freehand vs jig.

I freehand on the Tormek for knives but use jigs on chisels. I think for tip repairs the Tormek rules as you can't burn it.

Jim
 
Got a bit sidetracked, making a better pivot, and came up with this...

Collar_Mod.jpg


... basically connected two Stop Collars together (with a longer screw)... so now have a pretty "narrow" pivot point (that is more accurate too). Did it for both the Tormek jig and KME clamp. (On the Tormek jig, the collar rotates, so the collar in front and behind keep it in place. On the KME clamp, the sleeve rotates, so only one collar needed on the sleeve).

So far, so good!

(Will hopefully return to the earlier points mentioned shortly).
 
Tormek Forum member RickKrung, came up with a more 'elegant' solution... mounting a pin on a customized Stop Collar...

RKPivot_Collar.jpg


... did a nice job! :)
 
Tormek Forum member RickKrung, came up with a more 'elegant' solution... mounting a pin on a customized Stop Collar...

RKPivot_Collar.jpg


... did a nice job! :)


How does this strategy work across a range of belly curvatures?

I'd think if you had anything that wasn't a constant radius from the tip to the start point on the straight portion, would still have issues tracking the same angle.

Apologies if this was already covered.
 
How does this strategy work across a range of belly curvatures?

I'd think if you had anything that wasn't a constant radius from the tip to the start point on the straight portion, would still have issues tracking the same angle.

Apologies if this was already covered.

The biggest benefit is eliminating the wide collar of the standard jig, which IMO, causes more issues, (especially on smaller knives, like the typical EDC). Similar to other guided systems, you still have to set the blade for the belly/tip area to properly track that area, but so far, I've done about a dozen different shaped knives, and haven't seen any issues with mine.
 
I am very new to the system but have learned from some folks on other platforms that you are actually not supposed to follow the rounded edges of the head of the jig. Doing so from what I have been told also changes the angle and so on. Have any of you tried this? Can anyone else verify that it is true?
37736503_1835319189849072_5988126438685933568_n.jpg
 
I am very new to the system but have learned from some folks on other platforms that you are actually not supposed to follow the rounded edges of the head of the jig. Doing so from what I have been told also changes the angle and so on. Have any of you tried this? Can anyone else verify that it is true?

There are threads in the Tormek forum that debate this. I personally believe it’s better to follow the curve of the blade, thus the reason for the modified collar(s) in this thread. Others believe that lifting the handle is better, some use a combo of both. (Rotating the blade is not as easy with the original Stop Collar... as shown in the earlier posts, which is why most that use it tend to lift the handle to follow the belly/tip area).

You are right in that Tormek says that the rounded edges of the original Collar weren’t “designed” to rotate the knife to follow the belly/tip area.

Either method can be set to match the angle of the knife... it depends on where you clamp the blade in relation to the belly/tip area... so the info that one “changes the angle” vs. the other isn’t really correct. Easiest way to check is to mark the edge with a Sharpie type marker and check where you’re removing metal.
 
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