Swamp Rat and SYKCO Chat

Sorry, just logged in, no I have not etched any INFI, but here are a few of the many threads addressing the matter:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/etching-infi.1225883/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/on-the-tglb-models-and-their-coatings.1170744/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/considering-stripping-tglb.1211233/
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/here-goes.1182711/

And here is my synopsis and the protocol I would try if it were me:

The general practice is to use either salty vingar (lots of salt), direct current (a good battery or AC-DC converter, i.e. charger) and a Q-tip, or to use a strong acid-etchant like the PCB-stuff from radioshack (or other places). PCB etchant contains ferric chloride and strong hydrochloric acid, you really only need the HCl to get the job done. A stong HCl solution is available as "muriatic acid" in hardware stores, and you can add cornerstore hydrogen peroxide (3%) to the mix to speed things up.

Just like for a patina, de-grease the area to be etched with acetone or a couple rubs of strong alcohol - you can use the Q-tip for that. Then, if you think you need it, "wall" the logo in with nail-varnish or wax or tape or puddy - note, the HCL will eat into all of this, so don't wall too close, the varnish would need to cure first and the tape might not grab tight enough if the coat is crinkly.

Drip on the peroxide over the logo - try to have surface tension hold the fluid in place - then drip HALF as many drops of the acid into the mix and just let it sit. If it were me, I'd rinse this off after 15 minutes, use a needle or toothpick to try and scratch out any oxide in the logo to get a clean surface again, spray with alcohol and let dry (or blow-dry), then add the etchant again. Do it a few times to get it nice and deep. Be cautious of the coating starting to strip - anywhere it rubs away to reveal bare steel will become discolored by the etchant, it can be polished away later but will still mess up the cleanliness of the final etch.

When in doubt, practice on something else first ;)
 
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I've electro etched a few blades. 2 SR-101, one INFI. It all seemed the same to me.

Used salty water, q-tips, and two wires with alligator clips hooked up to three 9-volt batteries hooked up in series. Positive lead clamped to the edge bevel and negative to the saturated q-tip.

The key to getting a deep etch is removing the layer of black crud in-between passes, generally every time I switched to a new q-tip. A brass brush, old toothbrush, scotch-brite pad, bore brush, etc... whatever you have. Just rinse, wash, repeat until it's deep enough. I usually go through about 5 q-tips (both ends on each) and have gotten great results each time.

Safety tip: Beware of the toxic fumes from the etching process! My kitchen range has a downdraft exhaust fan, so I set up next to that.
 
inkynate said:
I've electro etched a few blades. 2 SR-101, one INFI. It all seemed the same to me.

Used salty water, q-tips, and two wires with alligator clips hooked up to three 9-volt batteries hooked up in series. Positive lead clamped to the edge bevel and negative to the saturated q-tip.

The key to getting a deep etch is removing the layer of black crud in-between passes, generally every time I switched to a new q-tip. A brass brush, old toothbrush, scotch-brite pad, bore brush, etc... whatever you have. Just rinse, wash, repeat until it's deep enough. I usually go through about 5 q-tips (both ends on each) and have gotten great results each time.

Safety tip: Beware of the toxic fumes from the etching process! My kitchen range has a downdraft exhaust fan, so I set up next to that.
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inkynate inkynate How do you know when to switch to a new q-tip? Or do you switch based on oxide build-up in the etch?
 
chiral.grolim said:
inkynate inkynate How do you know when to switch to a new q-tip? Or do you switch based on oxide build-up in the etch?
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The q-tips turn black as well, I switch when there's no more white cotton left. :)

Found my old post from my first etch on the Jackmandu:

inkynate said:
Well this Jack hasn't formally entered the strip club yet, but I figured I'd better go ahead and etch now before the coating wear got any closer to the logo.

97017b.jpg


9uro6x.jpg


21m8av4.jpg


The 9v/saltwater etch worked great. Thanks to all for the inspiration and tips in this and other recent threads. :thumbup:
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Sweet work :thumbsup:

One more question: how come you use the line of batteries rather than, say, a charger? And have you tried increasing or decreasing the number of batteries, or you like the amount of time it takes with the 3?
 
Thanks.

I went with three 9v batteries for no particular reason, just seemed like a good number lol. I stuck with it because it worked.

Already had a bunch of the batteries and the leads at home from messing around with ti anodizing a while back (linked them in series to vary the voltage and produce different colors).
 
Hey, it's been at least 2 weeks, where's my INFI Weiler? :)
I'm like a kid in an INFI store.
 
Hard Knocks said:
I got dinged for the dog soldier. Before I checked, I thought it was for the Rat and about jumped out of my chair.
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PLEASE let us know what you think of that soldier. I am still kicking myself for not getting in on it - love the look of that fuller, and a full-size ResC handle = so nice. But I have WAY too much money tied up in other orders just now ;)
 
chiral.grolim said:
PLEASE let us know what you think of that soldier. I am still kicking myself for not getting in on it - love the look of that fuller, and a full-size ResC handle = so nice. But I have WAY too much money tied up in other orders just now ;)
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It looked too useful to pass on, and you don't see INFI in that price range much either. I'll let you know CG. Now I just need to stay strong, Jerry is hitting way too many home runs in part 2.
 
DS looks like one that missing out on would end in some regrets down the track.

Managed to grab a BG Public Defender off exchange and I'm pretty happy with it, thin and light for a Busse. It's gonna get stripped for sure.
 
Hate to be that guy, but I'd recommend disappearing that img asap. I've seen the Boss HOG state a few times that renderings, mock-ups, etc... are the quickest way to kill something.

Please don't show me any drawings, pictures, or renderings. . . . Just verbal descriptions and dimensions if possible . . . :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
 
inkynate said:
Hate to be that guy, but I'd recommend disappearing that img asap. I've seen the Boss HOG state a few times that renderings, mock-ups, etc... are the quickest way to kill something.
Click to expand...
Well shoot :(
Complied
 
The only time I've etched INFI was to make it darker. I've applied some ferric chloride with cloth on the ASH and got the instant aged look
 
That did a good job Elof.
Did you etch the 2nd gen Ratweiler when they came out? I realize Infi and SR101 are different animals, but when it comes to etching, how different are they?
 
There are so many factors that I don't think on my scale I'd really notice the difference (or lack thereof).
INFI had a few different formulas over the years, who's to say that some of those weren't etching better than others?
Same goes for SR-101, although I think formula variance would be less dramatic.
I only bought one bottle of ferric chloride, and have used it for about 5-7 blades, who's to say that using 'clean' acid each time it would produce more controlled results?
Then there is time, only the first time I was looking at how much time I've etched, later I just went with the flow...
 
I see what you mean. Having said that, do you think you'll get a new bottle and tackle your Infi Ratweiler when you get your hands on her?
 
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